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Author
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Topic: 3g upgrade
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
 
 
quote:
Originally posted by diablounicorn:
did you change the pulley? i put my stock pulley on the 3g, i read that the stock 3g pulley spin slower.
Pulley is exact size of my stock
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Here is the print for the 3G did you wire it correctly and does the dash alt or battery light up when you key the car?? If in fact the light on the dash does not come on it wont charge. Good luck!!
http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf
If this is exactly how it needs to be wired you solved my problem. I ddnt know the yellow/white jumped to the + post on alternator. I hooked up my original yellow/white from chassis to harness y/w. And green/red to green/red.
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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triple b
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Member # 8763
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
I think you have a bum alt. I checked my mustang today and it has a 130 and it idles at 14.6 volts as it should.
This post alone proves that you dont know your shit. Come one you had to "check" if your mustang had a 130. Everyone that has done this conversion know what the fuck is on their car. And as far as your pictures that prove what? Nothing on there has your name and my point is that you throw your "experience" around as if you have the biggest cock around this site and your word is law. Your initial post was to clown someone else on the board for suggesting a bigger wire then "Tom suggested". Its funny that that your pissed off with all your exclamation points and capitalized spam, but yet you think I mad. You can't take what you dish out on a daily basis.
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1988 4cyl conv 306 HCI "sasha"
2004 tahoe
Sold- 87 GT, 72 chevelle, 63 biscane, 82 monte carlo, 73 nova, 88 silverado,
Posts: 1730 | From: sacramento ca | Registered: Nov 2008
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racsirx
CAFords OG
Member # 1710
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posted
I agree with you triple b, I forget what exactly made me think he is full of it, I think it was his disbelief of my dyno numbers I have made with a S-trim and a turbo and my 1/4 mile times.
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88 Saleen #564
88 GT 331 NOVI2000
88 Coupe TURBO 9.75@142
95 Cobra R #75-SOLD
06 F250
13 BMW AH3
17 GT350 #5556
GOD'S NOT DEAD
Posts: 20750 | From: Concord & Pittsburg, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Tom Renzo
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Member # 13165
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posted
Both those alternators can not be bad. The reason i posted about one of my mustang alternators was because it has a 3G with reduced pulleys and it charges normally at an idle.I had to figure out Which mustang had the reduced pulley and a 130 ford alt. Reason being i always convert them to GM units. I did not get to this particular car yet and it is 100% stock other than the pulley ( i bought the car this way). It took me a while to figure out which one it was. Thats why i posted what i did. So if you do not excite the alt with a dash light or power it if you have a gauge it will not charge. Unless of course it is a single wire unit. Hope this helps. Good luck
NOTE i was not aware what capitals meant when posting.. My daughter explained it to me as yelling at someone and i do apologize for that. My main concern is helping others and posting my experience to those that will take the advice. If you think i am throwing bull so be it. Years back i did not have a camera and people said without photos i was a bull thrower. Now i learned how to post photos of my work and modifications and people still call me a bull thrower. I guess i can not win.
[ 2014-04-28, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
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I spend money i don't have. Building cars i don't need. To impress people i don't know.
Posts: 557 | From: CT | Registered: Sep 2013
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*Als50*
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Member # 6003
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posted
This shit is too funny..... ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
Posts: 1897 | From: La Bahia... | Registered: Sep 2005
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fredfifty
Since
9/2010
Member # 10320
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posted
My readings are exactly like the bronco manual, however my stock battery gauge needle still sits below the M (half way) point?? Do i need a new gauge? Do they go bad?
Posts: 4948 | Registered: Sep 2010
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triple b
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Member # 8763
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Both those alternators can not be bad. The reason i posted about one of my mustang alternators was because it has a 3G with reduced pulleys and it charges normally at an idle.I had to figure out Which mustang had the reduced pulley and a 130 ford alt. Reason being i always convert them to GM units. I did not get to this particular car yet and it is 100% stock other than the pulley ( i bought the car this way). It took me a while to figure out which one it was. Thats why i posted what i did. So if you do not excite the alt with a dash light or power it if you have a gauge it will not charge. Unless of course it is a single wire unit. Hope this helps. Good luck
NOTE i was not aware what capitals meant when posting.. My daughter explained it to me as yelling at someone and i do apologize for that. My main concern is helping others and posting my experience to those that will take the advice. If you think i am throwing bull so be it. Years back i did not have a camera and people said without photos i was a bull thrower. Now i learned how to post photos of my work and modifications and people still call me a bull thrower. I guess i can not win.
No you cant win because you try to hard to prove other wise. It throws red flags, that others on this board can see through the bull shit. Im not doubting your expertise its the fact that your a dick to everyone else that gives advise contrary to what you believe...Oh btw (by the way) foxbody mustangs are not "100%" stock with a 3G alt. Which further address my point your use of absolutes is annoying and "bullshit" to my standards so consider yourself educated now you know foxbody mustangs don't come stock with a 3G alt...and your excuses nobody cares just quit being a dick its fucking annoying
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1988 4cyl conv 306 HCI "sasha"
2004 tahoe
Sold- 87 GT, 72 chevelle, 63 biscane, 82 monte carlo, 73 nova, 88 silverado,
Posts: 1730 | From: sacramento ca | Registered: Nov 2008
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
Idk why the hell im so confused. Im sure i have the wiring right but can someone please take pics of their wiring so i can copy it? I think im jus over thinkin everything.
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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Tom Renzo
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Member # 13165
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posted
There you go i never said i checked a FOX BODY did i. But i checked my fourth gen for the charging comparison. Not a third gen. And my forth gen in fact has a 3G.
3G alternator (130 amp comes in large and small frame sizes 3G alternator (130 amp) comes in large and small frame sizes small frame can be found stock in some 1995 5.0L Mustang
They came in these cars just a short list
3.8l Tbird non s/c
3.8l windstar
all 94-95 5.0l stangs
This info was supplied by FORD!! Not me!!
Ok here is ME in the flesh with one of our conversions. This way you have no dought it is me. By the way the Ferrari is a short wheel base GTO. We also build foreign jobs, And just for the record it makes no difference to me my cars work. And just for the record i own many many fords as well as GM so please spare me the GM crap. Can we move on now and stop bashing each other Thank you. lets just help this guy!! If i annoyed anyone i apologize. It is not my intent to do that. All i want to do is help people like me that love cars. Thank you.
[ 2014-04-29, 04:54 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
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I spend money i don't have. Building cars i don't need. To impress people i don't know.
Posts: 557 | From: CT | Registered: Sep 2013
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Tom Renzo
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Member # 13165
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posted
OK is your alternator wired like this
B+ battery post large wired directly over to regulator A terminal? Is the single spade tip connector wired to the S regulator terminal? And is the I terminal wired to ignition switch key battery or battery indicator lamp with a bridged resistor? If so it is wired correctly and should work. Check this and post back. Good luck!
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I spend money i don't have. Building cars i don't need. To impress people i don't know.
Posts: 557 | From: CT | Registered: Sep 2013
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triple b
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Member # 8763
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SacGrown89GT:
Idk why the hell im so confused. Im sure i have the wiring right but can someone please take pics of their wiring so i can copy it? I think im jus over thinkin everything.
5. Wiring modifications. Remove any tape and conduit from the wiring harness on the D-shaped plug to expose the two 10 gauge (black w/orange stripe) wires. These two wires come out of the rectangle connector and then join to one wire. Cut the wires where they join into one which will leave the two wires on the rectangle connector. This will leave you with a single 10 gauge wire. This wire will still have power because it shares a fusible link with another wire at the starter solenoid. You can go thru the work of chasing the wire back to the solenoid and cutting it there or you can simply tape the end off where you made the cut. You can also use a butt connector to cover the end of the wire. In this harness you will also find a smaller white wire with a black stripe. This is the stator wire. Cut the stator wire off of the factory rectangle connector and discard the connector. This stator wire is on a separate connector on the 3G alternator which you can find at a salvage yard and possibly at an auto parts store. If you can�t find a factory plug anywhere, you can use a female spade connector. The D-shaped plug from your factory alternator will plug right into your 3G alternator so you can go ahead and plug that in now.
Now its time to run your new power (4 - 6 gauge) wire. You can run it along the factory conduit in front of the radiator or you can make it nicer install and actually run the wire thru the conduit so everything looks like it came from the factory that way. If you choose to run the wire inside of the factory conduit you will need to remove your battery and battery tray as the factory conduit runs underneath it. After you are done running your new wire you can secure the factory harness in place and reinstall the battery tray and battery if you removed them.
When you connect the wire to the starter solenoid it would be wise to use a fusible link or an inline fuse (150 amp) in case the wire or alternator would short out for any reason. Always solder wire connections and use shrink tube to cover the connection. Now you can install a 3/8 ring terminal on the end of the wire and connect it to the battery side of your starter solenoid. Then install a 1/4 ring terminal on the other end of the new power wire and connect it to the alternator post. Go back and double check your installation. Make sure the wires don�t get in the way of any hot or moving parts. Tape up the new wires at the alternator nice and tight just like the factory harness was
The small white wire with black stripe stator wire the other wires black with orange that joins the other wire junk it or cut it back and tape the end... put a new power wire with fusible link in or fuse and wire it up...
[ 2014-04-29, 08:55 AM: Message edited by: triple b ]
Posts: 1730 | From: sacramento ca | Registered: Nov 2008
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triple b
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Member # 8763
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posted
The 3G can be re-clocked by removing the 3 bolts on the housing and simply clocking the the base into the position need to fit the mustang... and it came in a shit load of cars.
- 94-95 Mustang V8
- 94-98 V6's
- Other cars with the 3.8L motor in it. 5.0L cougars with the 94-95 style motor and others.
- There are a lot of cars with the 3g alt that will fit. Late 90's is when Ford switched to the 4G alternator.
- Mid 90s Taurus and escort. Says 130A on the back etched into it.
- 93-96 Taurus 3.0 V-6 (non SHO)
- 94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
- 94-95 Mustang 5.0
- 94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
- 95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
- 93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
- 96 Sable 3.0 V-6
- 94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
*Probably the best one if you can get it (should be easy to find, too) is off the E/F series...this series uses a threaded top ear like the stocker on the Mustang....E/F series with threaded ear uses metric bolt. ALSO, make sure the E/F series is 130 Amps and NOT 95. For all other cars listed above 130A is only option listed.
[ 2014-04-29, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: triple b ]
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1988 4cyl conv 306 HCI "sasha"
2004 tahoe
Sold- 87 GT, 72 chevelle, 63 biscane, 82 monte carlo, 73 nova, 88 silverado,
Posts: 1730 | From: sacramento ca | Registered: Nov 2008
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
Yeah idk why i was so damn confused. Thanks for breakin it down guys i had it right. I think my battery has a weak cell or something. Appreciate it ill get battery looked at today if not swapped i have warranty
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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Tom Renzo
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Member # 13165
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posted
Here we go your alternator should be wired as such. This is how i do it to simplify the issue. Connect the left wire to the heavy lug along with the battery heavy feed. The center position goes to the small lug. Then the far right wire goes to key battery or the alt light lead. This is as simple as i can make it for you. Good luck
I do it this way so only one wire is needed from the original wiring harness. As i do wire tucks it makes it much easier to consolidate the wiring and eliminate bulk ugly wire bundles. Just saying!
[ 2014-04-30, 02:53 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
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I spend money i don't have. Building cars i don't need. To impress people i don't know.
Posts: 557 | From: CT | Registered: Sep 2013
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Renzo:
Here we go your alternator should be wired as such. This is how i do it to simplify the issue. Connect the left wire to the heavy lug along with the battery heavy feed. The center position goes to the small lug. Then the far right wire goes to key battery or the alt light lead. This is as simple as i can make it for you. Good luck
I do it this way so only one wire is needed from the original wiring harness. As i do wire tucks it makes it much easier to consolidate the wiring and eliminate bulk ugly wire bundles. Just saying!
This is what i needed!!! Thank u
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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SacGrown89GT
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Member # 7435
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posted
Everythings good now. Thanks cafords!!!
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"Your shit aint hot!"
"No but its faster than your shoes"
"...."
Posts: 699 | From: SacGROWNmento | Registered: Feb 2007
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