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Author
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Topic: wilit's engine build thread
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
 
 
Well, here goes nothing. I'm finally going to get off my ass and get this engine together.
Step 1: Set up.
Status: Done
[ 2016-03-27, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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norcalfiddy
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Member # 11207
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posted
what are your plans for it?
and nice honda spree ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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600HP 1996 7.3L powerstroke single cab short bed race truck
Posts: 3393 | From: Brentwood | Registered: Aug 2011
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by norcalfiddy:
what are your plans for it?
and nice honda spree
Thanks. Just built a pipe for the Spree. Looking to get 35mph out of it. Right now I can only get about 28mph.
The Mustang engine is going to be a fun street motor. Roller block .020 over, speed pro forged pistons, trick flow heads, etc. I'm hoping to get close to 300rwhp.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
there's an identical honda spree sitting in my parents garage, lol
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
Step 2: File fitting the rings
[ 2016-03-27, 10:07 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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1Sicgt
CAFords OG
Member # 714
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posted
You sure you are qualified to machine anything? ![[Wink]](wink.gif) ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
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14 Focus TS ST3 full Stg3, ready for bigger Turbo
2003 Cobra Track Car
Posts: 8145 | From: Hitting the Apex | Registered: Jan 2002
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 1Sicgt:
You sure you are qualified to machine anything?
I'm positive I'm not qualified to do much of anything.
So with that said, on with the show!
Installing the main bearings
Measuring the diameter of the main journals.
Measuring the diameter of the main and rod journals
Installing the pilot bearing
[ 2016-03-27, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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50 Deep
Jockin 03 Cobras
Member # 6216
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posted
Where's the beer?
Posts: 6043 | From: sacramento | Registered: Nov 2005
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
Installing the rear main seal
Measuring crankshaft thrust
Installing the cam
[ 2016-03-27, 10:10 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Secnd2nun64
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Member # 1431
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posted
Just curiuos, but why are the bolt heads thicker on #2 & #4 mains?
Posts: 1460 | From: CA | Registered: Jun 2002
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
I came up with .003" clearance on all the mains dry. Wouldn't oil shrink that up by .001"?
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Secnd2nun64:
Just curiuos, but why are the bolt heads thicker on #2 & #4 mains?
The heads are tapped so the windage tray can bolt to them.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
¯
Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
I came up with .003" clearance on all the mains dry. Wouldn't oil shrink that up by .001"?
Was there any runout?
Oil film if u get super anal might be .0004 ??
I just feel the bore mic rotates easier with a thin film of oil that's all
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
I came up with .003" clearance on all the mains dry. Wouldn't oil shrink that up by .001"?
Was there any runout?
Oil film if u get super anal might be .0004 ??
I just feel the bore mic rotates easier with a thin film of oil that's all
Runout? Uh oh, I think I'm unfamiliar with what you're referring to. What do you mean?
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
nice follow up! and gd thing with the oil
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
I came up with .003" clearance on all the mains dry. Wouldn't oil shrink that up by .001"?
Was there any runout?
Oil film if u get super anal might be .0004 ??
I just feel the bore mic rotates easier with a thin film of oil that's all
Runout? Uh oh, I think I'm unfamiliar with what you're referring to. What do you mean?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Runout
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
looking good
i like to throw a light coat of thin oil on the bearings when taking my bore mic measurements give it a shot see what ya think.
Dan
I came up with .003" clearance on all the mains dry. Wouldn't oil shrink that up by .001"?
Was there any runout?
Oil film if u get super anal might be .0004 ??
I just feel the bore mic rotates easier with a thin film of oil that's all
Runout? Uh oh, I think I'm unfamiliar with what you're referring to. What do you mean?
To simplify Dave's wikipedia response lay the crank and spin it with the mains torqued except the one you are looking at and put your dial gauge right on the journal (I use thin film of oil) then spin it to see if the dial gauge moves. Sometimes you have a half or 1 and a half thousandths of runout on old used shit or a shop that mass produces cranks. I also check inside the main journals for it.
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
I didn't run the dial bore gauge around the main, but I did measure vertically and horizontally and they were spot on. The crank mains were spot on but again, I measured them on a horizontal and vertical plane.
I have to say, I am quite impressed with the machine work done at Morgans Speed and Marine in Walnut Creek. Tim is an absolute awesome guy and is worth every penny.
[ May 21, 2012, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
¯
Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
I didn't run the dial bore gauge around the main, but I did measure vertically and horizontally and they were spot on. The crank mains were spot on but again, I measured them on a horizontal and vertical plane.
I have to say, I am quite impressed with the machine work done at Morgans Speed and Marine in Walnut Creek. Tim is an absolute awesome guy and is worth every penny.
Morgans does great work I agree. Little pricey and lag a bit tho
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
I didn't run the dial bore gauge around the main, but I did measure vertically and horizontally and they were spot on. The crank mains were spot on but again, I measured them on a horizontal and vertical plane.
I have to say, I am quite impressed with the machine work done at Morgans Speed and Marine in Walnut Creek. Tim is an absolute awesome guy and is worth every penny.
Morgans does great work I agree. Little pricey and lag a bit tho
Yeah, they were a bit slow, but I told him I wasn't in a hurry so I'm sure I was put at the bottom of the pile. But every time I went in there, Tim was super helpful in asking what my plans were, what my budget was and how best to get everything I needed done. I built a 351 for a Bronco I had and did all the machine work at Elby's and while they did good work, the cost was very similar to Morgans but the added extras I got at Morgans made it all well worth it.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
Well, it might be a little while before I can get back to assembling the engine. I'm waiting on a dial gauge graduated in .0001" to come in so I can more accurately measure the rod bearing clearances. While I wait for that, I figured I'd throw up some pics of some homemade tools that are important in checking pushrod length, piston-to-valve clearance and degreeing a cam. All of these things cost me about $6 to build.
First up, a piston stop. I had some 1"x1/4" steel flat bar laying around and cut about an 8" length of it. I center drilled a hole for a 5/16" bolt with an "F" drill bit and tapped it with a 5/16-18 tap. I laid the bar across the block and drew center lines for the bolt holes and drilled 1/2" holes on either side of the line and ovaled them out with an endmill. This could easily be done with a dremel or file if you don't have a drill press and endmill laying around. The small bolt is a 5/16"x1.5" bolt and is the bolt that physically stops the piston (the head has been smoothed and all sharp edges have been rounded). The bolts to bolt it to the block are 7/16"-18x2" and the spacers are 1/2"x1". Total cost of the hardware was $3.
Next up is adjustable pushrods. These are old pushrods I had laying around. I checked them for straightness before cutting about 1.25" of the tip off. The centers of the rods get drilled larger with a #7 drill bit and tapped with a 1/4-20 tap. Cut about a 3" length of threaded rod for the adjustment screw. The short end gets locktite and the long end gets a jamb nut. Total cost of the hardware was $3.
Finally is a solid roller lifter. You can make these from stock lifters. The modification isn't permanent either, so you can just modify two lifters to check your measurements and then convert them back into regular hydraulic lifters. First, remove the retaining clip with a pair of needle nose pliers. You may need to push down on the cup to get the clip out. Once out, pull all the guts out. Part B just comes unclipped out of the bottom of Part D. Parts A, B & C then get set aside. Part D gets flipped upside down and reinstalled in the lifter body. The cup goes back in and the clip is reinstalled to keep everything in place. This is a completely free build if you have some old lifters laying around.
[ 2016-03-27, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
Well, after running into a bit of an issue with the measurements on the rod bearings, I think I'm back in business. I ended up buying a SPI dial gauge graduated in .0001". This made ACCURATELY measuring the rod bearing clearances that much easier. Now everything specs out .0019"-.0021".
Here's a couple of tips for checking these clearances with a micrometer and dial bore gauge.
1. Know how to read your tools
2. Know how to zero your gauges out
3. Torque all the caps down first then measure all at once. This helps to make sure temperature difference between the day don't affect your readings.
4. If you think people charge too much to build you a motor, try building one yourself. People like Turbo50 don't charge enough if you ask me.
[ 2016-03-27, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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