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Author
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Topic: wilit's engine build thread
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50DADDY
CAFords OG
Member # 3076
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posted
 
 
I think just the tools youve gotten for your build cost more than my entire buildup!
Nice thread,keep it up! ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
Posts: 4827 | From: Suckramento | Registered: Jul 2003
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
i welded my lifter. its now solid, and u can use if u want. i also have any dial indicator gauge, u can use as well. again great follow on your steps. i never installed the pilot bearing like that nor will i lol. but love the rear main install before the crank goes in.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
i welded my lifter. its now solid, and u can use if u want. i also have any dial indicator gauge, u can use as well. again great follow on your steps. i never installed the pilot bearing like that nor will i lol. but love the rear main install before the crank goes in.
Thanks for the offer. I've got two spare lifters that have been turned into permanent solid lifters so I should be good to go.
As for the pilot bearing, that's my small hammer. I didn't even use the BFH to set it in! ![[Razz]](tongue.gif) Just curious, how do you install them? That's how I've always installed pilot bearings and have never had a problem.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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v-town coupe
fordologist
Member # 2771
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posted
great thread wilit.
Posts: 4597 | From: the V-town | Registered: May 2003
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Secnd2nun64
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Member # 1431
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posted
I used a block of wood and a hammer to install my pilot bearing. The wood is much more forgiving than a socket.
Posts: 1460 | From: CA | Registered: Jun 2002
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
every machinist has made me nervous about improper handling of the crank shafts, laying them on there side,handling them, etc.on top of that the crank shaft has no support or structural design for end to end impact, jus not what it was intended for. now no one has told me not to do it that way, it is strictly jus my own beliefs, nor have i ever seen anybody do it like that. i install them once the crank is in the block. the motor block kind of hold,s or supports the crank shaft then. ok the trust bearing might take a sight impact, but wood is a great tool and thats how ive always seen it done.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
every machinist has made me nervous about improper handling of the crank shafts, laying them on there side,handling them, etc.on top of that the crank shaft has no support or structural design for end to end impact, jus not what it was intended for. now no one has told me not to do it that way, it is strictly jus my own beliefs, nor have i ever seen anybody do it like that. i install them once the crank is in the block. the motor block kind of hold,s or supports the crank shaft then. ok the trust bearing might take a sight impact, but wood is a great tool and thats how ive always seen it done.
I've always known about storing cranks standing up, but I guess I never gave any thought to them not having any linear strength. Probably right to wait until it's in the block to seat the pilot bearing.
As for the wood vs. socket, I was told you want to use the socket because you're putting the force on only the outer race which is stronger and will not damage the bearing. If you seat it using wood or whatever else putting pressure on the center race, you could damage the bearing because the load is being transferred to the bottom lip of the outer race.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
More progress, more pics.
Measuring the cylinder bores and I also mic'd the pistons to check for piston-cylinder gap.
Putting rings on the piston.
Attempting to tap the piston into the cylinder. I say attempting because it didn't work. I've assembled engines before with this band type ring compressor, but this time, it just wasn't working. Plan B: eBay and wait for more tools.
Attempt number 2 to tap the piston into the cylinder. Success!
Timing chain on, next step, degree the cam.
[ 2016-03-27, 10:18 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
Is that the Cloyes timing chain/gears?
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18529 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Is that the Cloyes timing chain/gears?
Yeah, it's the Cloyes Street set.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Is that the Cloyes timing chain/gears?
Yeah, it's the Cloyes Street set.
You ever ran a motor with it before? I ask because I have the same one waiting to go in.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18529 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
lol very true. i meant wood on the socket. the lip oil seal sticks out way to far for strait wood without a outer spacer.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
quote:
Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Is that the Cloyes timing chain/gears?
Yeah, it's the Cloyes Street set.
You ever ran a motor with it before? I ask because I have the same one waiting to go in.
Yeah, I've used them before. No issues. Actually if you look close at the pic, you'll see a Ford part number on the cam gear. I think Cloyes is the OEM supplier for the timing sets.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
More progress, more pics.
Measuring the cylinder bores and I also mic'd the pistons to check for piston-cylinder gap.
Putting rings on the piston.
Attempting to tap the piston into the cylinder. I say attempting because it didn't work. I've assembled engines before with this band type ring compressor, but this time, it just wasn't working. Plan B: eBay and wait for more tools.
Attempt number 2 to tap the piston into the cylinder. Success!
Timing chain on, next step, degree the cam.
Summit sells fixed bore piston installation tools for a reasonable price.
As if you havent spent enough on tools already.
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
Summit sells fixed bore piston installation tools for a reasonable price.
As if you havent spent enough on tools already.
Dan
Actually I don't mind spending $$ on tools. I know I'll end up using them again, or a friend will need to use them. I found that Childs & Albert ring compressor tool on eBay for $15 +$3 for shipping brand new in the package. Can't beat that. Thing worked like a charm.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
I'm back at the engine assembly. I spent a considerable amount of the summer installing a rack and pinion and new suspension in the Mustang that I didn't devote any time to the engine. Now that the Mustang is back up and running, it's finally time to get back at the engine.
So here I am measuring how deep the piston is in the hole. Exactly .008".
Looking for TDC. FOUND IT!
Degreeing the cam.
[ 2016-03-27, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
looking good.
I dont use ICL.
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
willit !!!! i love your post on this!!!! thats a lot of gd insights so everybody thats has no clue can have a clue on what this process really takes. gd job i was wondering where u left off a while ago
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
More progress on the slowest engine build in history. Today I did a PTV check.
Finally got the head studs I've been waiting for.
Got the head bolted down (hooked air compressor to it, but not in the pic) and swapped out the valve springs for checker springs.
Stole some of my kid's playdough to check the piston to valve clearance.
I've got my solid roller lifters in place, did a quick preliminary check on the pushrod length using my homemade adjustable pushrods. Set the rockers to zero lash and turned over the engine two complete revolutions.
After pulling the head off, I realized I stuck the playdough on the wrong side of the piston. D'oh. All set up for attempt number two.
Here's the result. Not even worth measuring. The intake didn't even make a dent and the exhaust barely made an indentation. If you add the extra .040" for the head gasket, there's more than enough PTV clearance. The cam is a Comp 35-302-8. Specs are 220/224 @ .050" duration with .512"/.533" max lift. The cam is installed retarded 4°
[ 2016-03-27, 10:26 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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i
¯
Member # 12534
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posted
These is the thing I want to do build engines. Great thread read the whole thing.
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86 Caged Coupe 5.0
91 Salvaged Coupe
Posts: 1901 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2012
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
More progress. Measured for pushrod length.
If you read engine building books, they'll tell you to use dye chem (machinists dye) on the valve tips to check the wear pattern. For most of us, we'll NEVER use it again. You can actually just use a dry erase marker to color in the valve tips and it wipes right off.
Here I purposely made one pushrod too short and one too long. You can see on the short one, the wear pattern is towards the back of the valve tip. On the long one, it pushes the wear pattern towards the front of the valve tip.
Here is a good wear pattern in the middle of the valve tips.
And then measure the pushrods. The calipers show 6.710" but since I don't have the head gasket installed, I need to add that compressed thickness to the measurement (6.710+.040 = 6.750"). Which comes out to what Trick Flow suggests in their instructions.
[ 2016-03-27, 10:35 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
6.700 push rods are more common and probably cheaper which Sux if u need 6.750s
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Boss 327
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Member # 9143
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posted
Why did you retard the cam timing?
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"You'll never truly understand building engines until you can make power N/A. FI overshadows an engines defficiency." Al Papito
Posts: 1789 | From: East Bay | Registered: May 2009
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Boss 327:
Why did you retard the cam timing?
Besides moving the power band sometimes it gives u more piston to valve clearance
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Boss 327:
Why did you retard the cam timing?
I built the engine in Desktop Dyno (yeah I know...) and it made 20 more HP retarded and shifted the power curve up from 5500 to 6000. Desktop Dyno says it should make 386hp & 367ft/lbs of torque. I'm curious to see how accurate it is.
Also I was a tad worried the bigger valves would be a problem with a zero-decked stock piston. Turns out it was a total non-issue.
[ 2013-07-03, 09:38 PM: Message edited by: wilit ]
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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