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wilit's engine build thread
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by wilit: [QB] Well, it might be a little while before I can get back to assembling the engine. I'm waiting on a dial gauge graduated in .0001" to come in so I can more accurately measure the rod bearing clearances. While I wait for that, I figured I'd throw up some pics of some homemade tools that are important in checking pushrod length, piston-to-valve clearance and degreeing a cam. All of these things cost me about $6 to build. First up, a piston stop. I had some 1"x1/4" steel flat bar laying around and cut about an 8" length of it. I center drilled a hole for a 5/16" bolt with an "F" drill bit and tapped it with a 5/16-18 tap. I laid the bar across the block and drew center lines for the bolt holes and drilled 1/2" holes on either side of the line and ovaled them out with an endmill. This could easily be done with a dremel or file if you don't have a drill press and endmill laying around. The small bolt is a 5/16"x1.5" bolt and is the bolt that physically stops the piston (the head has been smoothed and all sharp edges have been rounded). The bolts to bolt it to the block are 7/16"-18x2" and the spacers are 1/2"x1". Total cost of the hardware was $3. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/djFGsAJ.jpg[/IMG] Next up is adjustable pushrods. These are old pushrods I had laying around. I checked them for straightness before cutting about 1.25" of the tip off. The centers of the rods get drilled larger with a #7 drill bit and tapped with a 1/4-20 tap. Cut about a 3" length of threaded rod for the adjustment screw. The short end gets locktite and the long end gets a jamb nut. Total cost of the hardware was $3. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/VIcAsjv.jpg[/IMG] Finally is a solid roller lifter. You can make these from stock lifters. The modification isn't permanent either, so you can just modify two lifters to check your measurements and then convert them back into regular hydraulic lifters. First, remove the retaining clip with a pair of needle nose pliers. You may need to push down on the cup to get the clip out. Once out, pull all the guts out. Part B just comes unclipped out of the bottom of Part D. Parts A, B & C then get set aside. Part D gets flipped upside down and reinstalled in the lifter body. The cup goes back in and the clip is reinstalled to keep everything in place. This is a completely free build if you have some old lifters laying around. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/J1jkC8s.jpg[/IMG] [/QB][/QUOTE]
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