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Author
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Topic: 5 lug swap...Do I need 94-95 Master cylinder???
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
 
 
I am getting ready to do my 5 lug Cobra front brake swap on my notch & I was curious as to if i have to also change the master cylinder or booster to a 94-95 unit? I am staying with rear drum brakes btw....
Also, would you 5 lug swap experts suggest getting SN95 balljoints, or just running a spacer or washers on the stock fox balljoints? I have no idea if my car needs new balljoints, or if they have been replaced before, but I know the chassis has 172k miles on it.....
[ November 11, 2008, 11:16 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
I would swap the master, but you should not need to gut the prop valve or install an adjustable one, you want to keep the stock prop valve as it allows residual pressure to the rear that your drums will need.
stock booster should work pretty well.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
I would swap the master, but you should not need to gut the prop valve or install an adjustable one, you want to keep the stock prop valve as it allows residual pressure to the rear that your drums will need.
stock booster should work pretty well.
Will a wrecking yard one work out OK??? How much do they usually run new & used?
[ November 12, 2008, 12:13 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
a junk one would be fine.
I got my `93 cobra m/c brand new from napa for $90
don't buy a remanu from a parts store because it won't come with the plastic bottle/cap, buy a "new" one.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
a junk one would be fine.
I got my `93 cobra m/c brand new from napa for $90
don't buy a remanu from a parts store because it won't come with the plastic bottle/cap, buy a "new" one.
So I need 94/95 right, or do I need a 93 cobra one??? Any other related parts that go with it???
[ November 12, 2008, 12:17 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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4MY8TERS
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Member # 7840
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posted
I would upgade the booster, and just use washers
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1985 Notchback-393w Vortech
1991 Convert Lx-H/C/I-Vortech
1984 T-Top 306-H/C/I
Posts: 2337 | From: THE GOLDEN CITY AKA SFC | Registered: Aug 2007
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91LxStang
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Member # 8378
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hey i got the sn95 booster with the master cylinder for $85 if your interested.
Posts: 282 | From: fremont | Registered: May 2008
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06Xrunner
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Member # 6992
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I converted my notch to 5 lug and kept the factory notchback proportioning valve, I haven't had any problems...
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01 Black GT 526WHP sold
2012 5.0 GT 625WHP sold
1984 Buick G/N Built and boosting...
Posts: 2124 | From: Chico, Ca | Registered: Aug 2006
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8stang8
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Member # 8082
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EPIK... you can still use the stock m.c. & booster. It really doesnt matter unless you step up to a bigger inside dia. bore m.c. bigger brake lines etc then you will def. notice it (1 1/8 bore etc.) like BLIND said dont touch the p.v. you're still running drums.
And as far as the ball joints once you take the old spindles off move them back and forth by hand to see if they are still pretty firm( but w/ 172k idk ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif) ). if not then yes get the 94-up ones and run no washers ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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Fox body coupe: 347, TKO, 3.73s, 9.93 @ 143
Posts: 1279 | From: s.f. | Registered: Dec 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
a junk one would be fine.
I got my `93 cobra m/c brand new from napa for $90
don't buy a remanu from a parts store because it won't come with the plastic bottle/cap, buy a "new" one.
So I need 94/95 right, or do I need a 93 cobra one??? Any other related parts that go with it???
to be honest I don't think you need a different m/c or booster, I would suggest slapping the 5 lug swap on the car and drive it for a bit, if the pedal feels too firm to you, swap to a bigger booster.
but I wouldn't worry about it with the drums in the back.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
Thanks for the info again fellas. I have been having people on Stangnet tell me that my pedal effort will be too firm if I dont change the M.C.? I am considering doing it now because there is no use having good 2 piston 13" brakes that wont perform right, that would be worse than stock Fox brakes i would think??? Also do I or dont I need the SN95 booster or not??? & the PV???
how hard is it to change the M.C.? I dont have to remove the pedal assembly do I??? I hope not because the pedals are a pain...
Also, I found these on Ebay. Are these the balljoints I need? The price seems extremely low???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lower-Ball-Joints-FORD-MUSTANG-94-95-FRONT-MOOG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33580QQihZ003QQitemZ130263100462QQrefidZstoreQQtcZphoto#ebayphotohosting
Sorry for all the questions. I just need to know because Im not doing the work at my house, but at my buddies job & I need to have EVERYTHING that i need beforehand so that i can get the front done in 1 day....
This is what my front swap currently consists of...
-95 spindles
-Cobra brakes
-Cobra brake lines
-weatherhead brake line adapter
-MM cc plates
possible parts
-SN95 balljoints
-SN95 master cylinder
-94/95 booster
??????
[ November 13, 2008, 12:49 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
you DO NOT change the prop valve if you are keeping drums.
you do not need to change the m/c because you still have drums
to change the m/c you don't touch the pedals, you only unbolt the booster from the pedals when you need to change the booster.
I would suggest driving the car before worrying about changing the m/c or booster.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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*EPIK*
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Member # 7481
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
you DO NOT change the prop valve if you are keeping drums.
you do not need to change the m/c because you still have drums
to change the m/c you don't touch the pedals, you only unbolt the booster from the pedals when you need to change the booster.
I would suggest driving the car before worrying about changing the m/c or booster.
Ok...Thanks for coming through again Blind!!!
I will just do the ball joints for now & see how it feels....
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=91 Notch:12.31@110 **Under Construction**
=05 CTS-V: 418rwhp/393rwtq=13.01@111
http://www.djepikmusic.com
Posts: 6966 | From: 916 | Registered: Mar 2007
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1bdpone
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Member # 6708
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posted
I did the sn95 swap on my 93 (used cobra calipers) and did not change the master cylinder. The brakes are great, pedal is not hard and car stops much better than it did with the stock brakes up front. I also kept the rear drums.
Posts: 182 | From: Tri Valley | Registered: Apr 2006
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