quote:

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Originally posted by Blind:
I would swap the master, but you should not need to gut the prop valve or install an adjustable one, you want to keep the stock prop valve as it allows residual pressure to the rear that your drums will need.

stock booster should work pretty well.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Blind:
a junk one would be fine.

I got my `93 cobra m/c brand new from napa for $90


don't buy a remanu from a parts store because it won't come with the plastic bottle/cap, buy a "new" one.

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So I need 94/95 right, or do I need a 93 cobra one??? Any other related parts that go with it???

[ November 12, 2008, 12:17 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
 

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Posted by 1991 SSP COUPE 331 TWIN TURBO (Member # 7840) on :
 
I would upgade the booster, and just use washers
 

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Posted by 91LxStang (Member # 8378) on :
 
hey i got the sn95 booster with the master cylinder for $85 if your interested.
 

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Posted by 06Xrunner (Member # 6992) on :
 
I converted my notch to 5 lug and kept the factory notchback proportioning valve, I haven't had any problems...
 

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Posted by 8stang8 (Member # 8082) on :
 
EPIK... you can still use the stock m.c. & booster. It really doesnt matter unless you step up to a bigger inside dia. bore m.c. bigger brake lines etc then you will def. notice it (1 1/8 bore etc.) like BLIND said dont touch the p.v. you're still running drums.

And as far as the ball joints once you take the old spindles off move them back and forth by hand to see if they are still pretty firm( but w/ 172k idk ). if not then yes get the 94-up ones and run no washers
 

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Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by Blind:
a junk one would be fine.

I got my `93 cobra m/c brand new from napa for $90


don't buy a remanu from a parts store because it won't come with the plastic bottle/cap, buy a "new" one.

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So I need 94/95 right, or do I need a 93 cobra one??? Any other related parts that go with it???

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to be honest I don't think you need a different m/c or booster, I would suggest slapping the 5 lug swap on the car and drive it for a bit, if the pedal feels too firm to you, swap to a bigger booster.

but I wouldn't worry about it with the drums in the back.
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 
Thanks for the info again fellas. I have been having people on Stangnet tell me that my pedal effort will be too firm if I dont change the M.C.? I am considering doing it now because there is no use having good 2 piston 13" brakes that wont perform right, that would be worse than stock Fox brakes i would think??? Also do I or dont I need the SN95 booster or not??? & the PV???

how hard is it to change the M.C.? I dont have to remove the pedal assembly do I??? I hope not because the pedals are a pain...


Also, I found these on Ebay. Are these the balljoints I need? The price seems extremely low???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lower-Ball-Joints-FORD-MUSTANG-94-95-FRONT-MOOG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33580QQihZ003QQitemZ130263100462QQrefidZstoreQQtcZphoto#ebayphotohosting





Sorry for all the questions. I just need to know because Im not doing the work at my house, but at my buddies job & I need to have EVERYTHING that i need beforehand so that i can get the front done in 1 day....


This is what my front swap currently consists of...

-95 spindles
-Cobra brakes
-Cobra brake lines
-weatherhead brake line adapter
-MM cc plates


possible parts

-SN95 balljoints
-SN95 master cylinder
-94/95 booster
??????

[ November 13, 2008, 12:49 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
 

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Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
you DO NOT change the prop valve if you are keeping drums.

you do not need to change the m/c because you still have drums

to change the m/c you don't touch the pedals, you only unbolt the booster from the pedals when you need to change the booster.

I would suggest driving the car before worrying about changing the m/c or booster.
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Blind:
you DO NOT change the prop valve if you are keeping drums.

you do not need to change the m/c because you still have drums

to change the m/c you don't touch the pedals, you only unbolt the booster from the pedals when you need to change the booster.

I would suggest driving the car before worrying about changing the m/c or booster.

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Ok...Thanks for coming through again Blind!!!


I will just do the ball joints for now & see how it feels....
 

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Posted by 1bdpone (Member # 6708) on :
 
I did the sn95 swap on my 93 (used cobra calipers) and did not change the master cylinder. The brakes are great, pedal is not hard and car stops much better than it did with the stock brakes up front. I also kept the rear drums.
 

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