T O P I C R E V I E W
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Blowfish
Member # 4043
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posted
Im trying to decide if I should install a 331 stroker kit in my 91 roller block. What machine work needs to be done first. Please be specific Im a dumb ass. Thanks
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88DroptopGT
Member # 2535
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posted
You will need to:
Hot-tank + Magnaflux block Bore .030 over + Hone cylinder walls Align Hone Main Caps Grind For Pushrod Clearance if using a stroker Square & Zero-Deck block Install Cam Bearings + Freeze Plugs
I may have forgot some other things. I would deburr the block myself with a dremel when you're done.
Don't forget to get your internal assembly balanced with your flywheel/balancer that you plan to use. I would also use a girdle.
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2stangs69-91
Member # 1951
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posted
Grind for pushrod clearence? Don't you mean Connecting Rod? I am in the final stages of getting my 331 togther right now. I used the H beam Rods and you do have to notch the bottom of the cyl bores in about the 5 o'clock position(looking at the bottom of each cyl from the crankcase area.
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
not to mention verifying ring gap clearances, main and rod bearing clearances, piston/bore clearance, crank 'trueness', crankshaft 'play', cam 'play', and probably a half dozen things I'm forgetting in the rotating assembly.
I realize 'blueprinting' isn't a free procedure but hey it's probably why some 331's run great for 10k miles and then blow up into a oil slick
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Blowfish
Member # 4043
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posted
OK guys , I get most of this stuff , I have built engines before just never a Ford. I like the deburring idea and wonder about the H beam rods and notching the cyl. bottom, is there another solution , maybe different rods ? Also squaring and decking the block is done to the head mating surface of the block eh ? or does it concern more ? Now the hard part , Who sells the best 331 kit I have a new E cam and 1.7 roller rockers in the box but need all the pistons rings rods crank bearings etc. Ive seen kits from $500 up to about $800 gimme names and numbers please
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88DroptopGT
Member # 2535
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 2stangs69-91: Grind for pushrod clearence? Don't you mean Connecting Rod?
Yes, sorry I used an incorrect term.
Blowfish - Forget that e-cam because it was engineered for 302's. Realize that you will have an extra 29 cubes that will need adequate valve timing and flow to compensate for the increase stroke. You could keep those 1.7 RR's should they be shaft-mount style.
I forgot to include blueprinting/plastigauging of all the bearing/rings since Blowfish asked what work is needed from the machine shop "first". I would get a forged kits w/moly ring (or total seal if you have $200+ for rings). As for what kit, I would look at only big engine builders such as Keith Craft, D.S.S, Bennet, etc. There are horror/success stories with all the builders you basically you are rolling the dice if you aren't looking at some people's feedback in the bay area. Don't forget about shipping of the internals as well, they be heavy.
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hawaii5.0
Member # 4675
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posted
When you stroke a 302 into a 331 is it smog legal after that? Can you put the original smog related stuff back on the block and will it work?
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stoauto
Member # 2803
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posted
quote: Originally posted by hawaii5.0: When you stroke a 302 into a 331 is it smog legal after that? Can you put the original smog related stuff back on the block and will it work?
YES
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hawaii5.0
Member # 4675
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posted
how much does it cost to stroke a 302 into a 331?
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
anywhere from maybe $600-$700 to over $6k, how fast do you want to go/spend
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hawaii5.0
Member # 4675
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posted
I see stroker kits going for like $1,300. I was wondering, if you buy the stroker kit is there anything else do you need to do to the block or is it just a matter of installing all the parts that you got with the kit?
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2stangs69-91
Member # 1951
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posted
If you don't knotch the block the rod end will notch it for you. Thats just the facts doesn't matter if you want to do it or not. It is very simple to do and causes no problems.
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Blowfish
Member # 4043
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posted
What about balancing ? Will I keep my 50 oz. flexplate and 50 oz counterb. or switch to 28 oz flexplate and 28 oz. counterb. What determines the amount of balance I use. What if I build a 306 and use a 28 oz. balancing act. Would it spin faster or fly apart ?
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stoauto
Member # 2803
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posted
quote: Originally posted by JoeT: anywhere from maybe $600-$700 to over $6k, how fast do you want to go/spend
what machine shop do you go to??
if you just wanted to bore/hone/notch bottom of cylinders to clear for the 331, thats only 300$ and that includes hot tank. balance is only 125$. these prices are straight from Robs Auto Machine in Hayward. they do EXCELLENT work!!!! [ July 19, 2004, 05:24 PM: Message edited by: stoauto ]
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
if the bores were good, (no re-bore needed), a 302 could become a 327 (same stroke as a 331) for about $600-$700 using the cheapest possible chinese rotating assembly, assuming the builder installed it themselves.
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stoauto
Member # 2803
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posted
quote: Originally posted by JoeT: if the bores were good, (no re-bore needed), a 302 could become a 327 (same stroke as a 331) for about $600-$700 using the cheapest possible chinese rotating assembly, assuming the builder installed it themselves.
ok ok..... i thought you meant something else. sounds good.
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FRDFURY
Member # 2918
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posted
using the 28oz or the 50oz is gonna depend on the kit you buy. i know most of the eagle kits out there that are strokers usually only balances to 28oz unless your machine shop wants to balance it to 50oz wich means they'll have to take alot of material off your crank. it's really up to you.
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twstd5o
Member # 1981
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posted
quote: how much does it cost to stroke a 302 into a 331?
It was $4200.00 for me at Johnson Racing in Sac.
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chosen1
Member # 1906
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posted
shit, between spending the money to stroke a stock 302, why not spend the same amount of money for a stroked 351?
a stock 351 block is superior in more than ways than 1 to a 302 block.
you can still find 351 blocks in wrecked cars and there are a million crate motors around. that are super inexpensive. Keith Craft, for example, sells their 331 Stroker Plus for $2895. Their 408 Stroker plus is $3095. The difference is less than California sales tax for the 331.
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
not everyone wants to buy the 351 swap parts such as drop motor mounts, conversion oil pan, 351 distributor, probably another hood will be needed, and not to mention you've added around 80#s to the nose of the vehicle.
I personally think that's a small sacrifice to pay for say a nice 408/427 from a 351, but not everyone will feel the same.
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chosen1
Member # 1906
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posted
quote: Originally posted by JoeT: not everyone wants to buy the 351 swap parts such as drop motor mounts, conversion oil pan, 351 distributor, probably another hood will be needed, and not to mention you've added around 80#s to the nose of the vehicle.
I personally think that's a small sacrifice to pay for say a nice 408/427 from a 351, but not everyone will feel the same.
understood. my point however (i guess i wasnt that clear) is that between spending for an aftermark 302 block or building a stroked 351 using a stock block, id rather have the extra cubes.
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
me too, forgot to add that your stock engine accessories (PS, alt, AC, etc) should work, but I think you just have to score the accessory brackets in the junkyard from an F-250 or something like that with a 351.
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Blowfish
Member # 4043
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posted
Wow ! Thanks for all the opinions. I think after hearing all the things I can do , I think Im going to rebearing everything and throw a set of 306 slugs in and call it better than before. There are to many other issues involved in a stroker, and remember this is an aod trans so Im going to want to stuff an upgraded stall in there and that could be another big expense even if I go cheap on it. I will be upgrading my rotating assy , new E cam , rollers and heads so with any luck it should be an improvement. Thanks again
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