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Author
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Topic: Could use suggestions for my car/engine problems
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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Ok, I took the car in to get my heater core replaced/air conditioning worked on. At least the fuggin thing doesnt smell like coolant anymore
I have another problem though and that is burning oil/bad idle. The car goes through a quart about every 400-500 miles or so depending on how hard I drive. The mechanic guy said the valve seals are probably gone and that's what the problem is. I have roughly 80k miles just a bit under on the motor now. I have good reason the believe it was babied badly by the previous owner as it was *bone* stock including air silencer and type of filter. The guy didnt do anythin with it accept change the mufflers. I'm sure my driving habits are what is causing the problem as the car probably has not seen much hard driving in its life.
I was thinking about a big buildup down the road a bit but I will have about 2-2500$ I could spend on it now. The mechanic also said I should think about having someone replace the radiator down the road as its "clogged" and that would help my cooling system. Does this sound like BS? My A/C does kinda suck but the car never ever gets above half way on the temp gauge and thats only after like 2 hours of stop and go in hot weather.
Would it make sense to just go ahead and have a bunch of work done like say heads/cam/intake/radiator/seals all at one time or does it make more sense to have them fix the oil problem first and find out if anything else is wrong?
I guess i'm trying to decide which route makes the most sense financially
What would you do? Is 2500 enough money to get this crap fixed + get decent parts? I've seen heads from like 400$ (obviously cheap pos) to 3k
I would have to include labor costs as I have no clue how to work on a car really
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
Ring and bearing it and put some heads on it.
You can do that under 2500
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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if you're burning oil it might not only be the valve seals. watch out for ring seal related problems. best way to know for sure is a leakdown test.
otherwise, the acid test for valve seal problems is black smoke during decceleration, but really not at any other time. Tach it up to 4k in gear, then let off and check the rear view. Drive normally at 4k and check the rear view. Compare.
If this isn't conclusive, do it parked with a friend watching the tailpipes.
$2500 is a great start for a decent motor.
Brand new DSS 306 shortblock is $1500, TFS heads are $1k brand new.
heh!
lots of options.
ring and bearing is probably the lowest cost way to go. GT-40 style heads (take-offs from 93-95 cobras, or Gen 1 lightnings) are great for power and are pretty cheap too.
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1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by PunkINa5.SLOW:
Ring and bearing it and put some heads on it.
You can do that under 2500
Sorry to sound like a idiot but I have to ask or I'll never know ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
Will the "ring and bearing it" pretty much cover any oil burning problem I might have? I guess I just dont know much about what part is called what.
Which heads would you (or anyone for that matter) suggest? If I'm going to bother I'd like a nice power gain and I'd like to run maybe a 150 shot down the road. My "goal" high 11's or so with juice.
[ June 05, 2002, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: The Rick ]
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
if you're burning oil it might not only be the valve seals. watch out for ring seal related problems. best way to know for sure is a leakdown test.
otherwise, the acid test for valve seal problems is black smoke during decceleration, but really not at any other time. Tach it up to 4k in gear, then let off and check the rear view. Drive normally at 4k and check the rear view. Compare.
If this isn't conclusive, do it parked with a friend watching the tailpipes.
$2500 is a great start for a decent motor.
Brand new DSS 306 shortblock is $1500, TFS heads are $1k brand new.
heh!
lots of options.
ring and bearing is probably the lowest cost way to go. GT-40 style heads (take-offs from 93-95 cobras, or Gen 1 lightnings) are great for power and are pretty cheap too.
Thanks alot for all the info. Do you think I really need a new shortblock? Would I need new rods also then? ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
a new shortblock is an option, that's all I'm saying. A brand new shortblock + heads is within $2500 easy (not including extras like gaskets, rockers, pushrods, and all that).
I'd say do a leakdown test on your motor. Ring & bearing it for the cheapest possible rebuild. Based on my own experience, if you plan to race it, throw in an oil pump at the same time. Shoot throw in an OEM oil pump anyways ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
I had a 93 Cobra that I had a 175 shot going through it and it ran a 12.14 @ 113 with a 1.77 60'ft at SP. This was with the silencer removed and a KNN air filter ONLY. It was through cats, etc. I am sure that for 2,500 you should be able to run 11's no problem and fix your oil problem for the time being. Had I removed the cats and threw on a cat back I am sure I would have been there. For the money I am sure you can out do those heads and cam as well. Are you going to be doing the work yourself? That will be the difference between being able to do it financially or not.
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by PunkINa5.SLOW:
Ring and bearing it and put some heads on it.
You can do that under 2500
Would you be interested in doing something like this? I know you have a good rep around here and all ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif) but it seems like your pretty busy
Let me know man ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
I'd say do a leakdown test on your motor. Ring & bearing it for the cheapest possible rebuild. Based on my own experience, if you plan to race it, throw in an oil pump at the same time. Shoot throw in an OEM oil pump anyways
Thanks for bearing with me How much should a leakdown test cost? What's a good oil pump cost roughly?
thanks
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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leakdown test: testers are $100, find somebody with an air tank (I don't have one)
at a shop, hopefully they would charge about $60-$80 for the test. Hopefully with you watching so you can see their methodology (it's pressure loss over time, I forget the standard values).
OEM oil pumps I believe are almost $100. Picking up an OEM oil pump with the SVO hardened oil pump shaft is probably the best of both worlds (high volume oil pumps usually unneccessary and they cost HP on cars not making all that much HP)
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
AFR 165s
ring and bearing your old motor and rebalance it
I have a couple shortblocks that are ready to go
one with cam, one without
I ran 12.20s@114 with a 1.67 60 foot with a stock 89 efi motor and a custom cam with long tubes 4.10s and slicks in an LX with a nitrous kit I put together.
That was back in 96
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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jayl
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Member # 185
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posted
whats the deal on the shortblocks? any info them?
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Facebook.com/TeamTemporary
8.5's TTFBitch!
Posts: 3821 | From: Hayward | Registered: Mar 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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1 ringed and bearinged forged shortblock and one hyp ringed and bearinged shortblock.
I can build one on the cheap tho using nice pistonies and some ARP rod bolts and ARP main studs etc with a good balance job...
shops open
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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jayl
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Member # 185
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posted
how about a little 10 to 1 408 for me? ive been lookin up prices and these companies in the mags seem ok, but im not sure
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Facebook.com/TeamTemporary
8.5's TTFBitch!
Posts: 3821 | From: Hayward | Registered: Mar 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
ahhhhhhh
Needs alot of head and intake and cam.
Then it is heavy
Rod to stroke ratio...havent checked that one out yet...
Might get away with a little less head if the rod in relation to the stroke is long enough to keep the piston at TDC during rotation of the crankshaft long enough to keep head from wanting big peak flow......................but I DOUBT a 408 has this potential.
Dunno.
I never see them run too hard.
I say 331
Not to mention the cheaper the stroker kit, well the cheaper the parts and the more the worry.
Get a cheap crank and then when you put your balancer on even with a nice installer and honed to "fit" it pulls the threads out of the snout.
Bunch of junk out there of late so be careful.
Bottom line is you get what you pay for.
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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jayl
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Member # 185
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posted
so you think 302 based is a better way to go for me? If you wanna build somethin up let me know, some prices would help me cuz ive got no clue on a decent 331 stroker shortblock or even long
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Facebook.com/TeamTemporary
8.5's TTFBitch!
Posts: 3821 | From: Hayward | Registered: Mar 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by jayl:
so you think 302 based is a better way to go for me? If you wanna build somethin up let me know, some prices would help me cuz ive got no clue on a decent 331 stroker shortblock or even long
Well,
Why dont you wait and see how the little AFR headed motor I built runs this weekend?
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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jayl
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Member # 185
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posted
works for me......talk to ya l8r dan
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Facebook.com/TeamTemporary
8.5's TTFBitch!
Posts: 3821 | From: Hayward | Registered: Mar 2001
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by PunkINa5.SLOW:
quote:
Originally posted by jayl:
so you think 302 based is a better way to go for me? If you wanna build somethin up let me know, some prices would help me cuz ive got no clue on a decent 331 stroker shortblock or even long
Well,
Why dont you wait and see how the little AFR headed motor I built runs this weekend?
Hey, let me know how it goes too ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
Was that the motor you were building for the 79 that your talking about? It looked like a beast ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by The Rick:
quote:
Originally posted by PunkINa5.SLOW:
quote:
Originally posted by jayl:
so you think 302 based is a better way to go for me? If you wanna build somethin up let me know, some prices would help me cuz ive got no clue on a decent 331 stroker shortblock or even long
Well,
Why dont you wait and see how the little AFR headed motor I built runs this weekend?
Hey, let me know how it goes too
Was that the motor you were building for the 79 that your talking about? It looked like a beast
No that motor which I still have tentatively is a 331 but has TEA prepped TFS heads and close to 13 to one compression and a very large cam.
It is not streetable unless on race gas but Im going to go ahead and put it in the 79 and sell the whole car as a runner.
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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The Rick
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Member # 327
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posted
Hey dan, any word on the track numbers?
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90GT: h/c/i
05 wrx
Posts: 868 | From: plumas lake (sacramento area) | Registered: Jul 2001
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