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Author
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Topic: Questions for open track setup
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
 
 
Before I sign up for my first track day I want to make sure my car and equipment is up to par:
Do I need a roll cage? Are 4:30 gears in my 98 cobra too steep? Would I be better off with 3:73/4:10's? What kind fo brake pads and fluid are you guys using? Will a motorcycle helmet be good enough to pass spec? Are street tires good enough or do I need some high performance tires? I currently have Nitto 555's.
I noticed that on open track and AutoX mustangs their shifters are very tall (ie: Greg's aka 9cobra7)...what kind of shifter is that ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Any and all other advice is greatly appreciated! ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
Before your first session of the day you should do the following things at a minimum:
a.Check your seat belts, especially at attachment points
b.Check clutch fluid
c.Clean windshield
d.Check tire pressures
e.Remove all loose articles from the car
f.Remove the spare
g.Remove all floor mats
h.Empty all ash trays
Before each run, you should do the following things at a minimum:
a.Check the torque of the lug nuts
b.Check tires for wear and possible inflation pressure adjustment
c.Check brake fluid
d.Check oil fluid
e.Check coolant level (in the over flow container, never remove a radiator cap on a hot motor)
f.Check gas level. You'd be surprised how many sessions are cut short because of any empty tank.
g.Check brake pads and rotors.
My first drivers school is coming up, what should I expect?
What To Bring
Most serious students at drivers schools have learned several important lessons:
You can have lots of fun just being at the track.
You’ll have even more fun with the right equipment.
SOMEONE at the track is bound to have the right tool or part for virtually any problem. Get to know as many people as possible. Be friendly. Say thank you, and you’ll be surprised at how helpful people can be.
The amount of stuff you want to take to the track will expand to fill the available space.
Here is a brief list of essentials for the track:
Extra motor oil (at least two quarts)
Window cleaner
Paper towels
Hand cleaner
Hat
Helmet (confirm that your helmet meets or exceeds the minimum requirements)
Sunscreen
Ground sheet to keep the sand and dirt out of the other stuff
Registration/tech sheets
Cover sheet
Lawn chair
Tire gauge
Pen/paper
Watch or clock
Garbage bags (helps keep the small stuff together)
Extra T-shirt (you’ll probably get sweaty)
Extra long sleeved shirt (some schools require them)
Cooler stocked with lots of water and/or Gatorade plus fruit and snacking veggies (Absolutely NO ALCOHOL of any kind will consumed by ANYONE during run sessions, but feel free to have a cold one after the last session IF you won’t be driving home).
Before the First Session
There are several keys to having a great first school. First and foremost is GET THERE EARLY! Absolutely nothing is more unnerving and creates more anxiety in first timers than being late, missing a drivers meeting and starting the day off wrong. Plus if you’re early, you’re less likely to make mistakes in your paperwork, cleaning out the car or missing a tech inspection.
You’ll begin the day with a group meeting with the classroom instructor and the chief instructor. They will go over the rules of the track, what the flags mean, how to pass properly and about a dozen other things you’ll need to know to have a safe enjoyable weekend. You’ll hear it about a kajillion times throughout the course of the weekend, so let’s get the first order of business out of the way:
THIS IS NOT A RACING SCHOOL!
If you’re coming to a school to prove you’re the next Jeff Gordon, impress your friends with your courage and skill, or see if you can get your moneys worth out of all those expensive car modifications,
here is rule #1:
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE RULES AND/OR LISTEN TO YOUR INSTRUCTOR WILL MAKE IT NECESSARY FOR THE CLUB TO REFUND YOUR MONEY AND ASK YOU TO LEAVE. IF YOUR ATTITUDE IS REALLY BAD, THE REFUND MAY BE OPTIONAL.
Please don’t embarrass the folks running the school by making them embarrass you. Everyone is there to enjoy the cars, have some fun, meet great people and enjoy a safe learning experience. About 99% of the people who come to these events are the greatest people/drivers on the road. Keep in mind that your instructor isn’t being paid. They are just trying to impart some knowledge and live to do it again.
The first priority is to clean out the car. EVERY loose object must be removed from the trunk and passengers compartment. The most important area to check is UNDER THE FRONT SEAT. Objects tend to gravitate to this area and you won’t notice them until you get on the binders really hard. Invariably they roll or slide under your feet. Going into a braking zone is not the place to have something jam under the pedals. Any item that is not attached needs to be removed. Clean out the glove box, rear package shelf, and console. All floor mats should be removed to keep them from sliding around.
After you have the car clean, your instructor or the tech crew will perform a tech inspection to check everything including your helmet. They should check the trunk, under the hood and the passenger compartment to make sure the battery is secure, all loose objects are removed, and there are no fluid leaks. They will also check the Snell sticker on the inside of your helmet.
Next is tire pressure. Due to the nature of this kind of driving, you’ll need to add some air. About 35lb cold is a good starting point. The one thing you don’t want is for the tire to roll over during hard cornering and come off the rim. They will gain some pressure as they heat up, so don’t go overboard and overinflate them.
For first timers (hereafter referred to as "track virgins"), as well as those in beginning run groups, you may have some on track exercises designed to help you explore the limits of your car and get a feel for how the chassis works. Before we take your pride and joy out on the track, let’s go over the basics of sitting in the car.
It may seem elementary to discuss how to sit in a car. After all you’ve been doing it for many years, but [no pun intended ;-)] for this type of driving, seating and body position is important. To control the car you must be able to concentrate on inputs - steering, throttle and brakes - without worrying about being a loose object behind the wheel.
You should be sitting IN rather than ON the seat. Use your feet to push back and wiggle your butt into the seat. After making sure you’re in total contact with the seat, see if you can reach all the pedals. If not, adjust the seat and start again.
Next up is hand position on the steering wheel. Place your hands at either 9:00 and 3:00 or 10:00 and 2:00. Notice the word hands, as in plural. This is no place for one-handed driving. You’ll get better results if your arms are slightly bent. It they’re fully extended you won’t get good leverage.
Next move your right hand and place it at "noon" on the wheel. If you can do this without moving your back away from the seat you’re probably positioned correctly. To make sure, put your hands back at 9:00 and 3:00 and turn the wheel to the right and left WITHOUT changing position on the wheel. If your elbows hit the seat back or your body, you’re too close to the wheel. Tilt the seat back slightly until your arms are slightly bent.
People who are vertically challenged (i.e. short) or those with extremely long arms may never be able to reach the ideal seating position without modifying the car with pedal extenders. If this is your case, go for the best compromise.
Before attaching the seat belt, check the mirrors. When you are on the track ( and of course for everyday street driving) it is your responsibility to check the mirrors. You will be in the beginning or novice run group and there may be students who have attended other drivers schools. They may be faster. In any group of drivers there will be faster and slower cars, so be aware of what is behind you. With that in mind, your first priority is still to concentrate on the line in the turns. The mirrors are for the straightaways when you’ll be passing or being passed. Try not to let the mirror affect your line in the turn.
Next is seat belts. You want to make sure they’re fastened as tightly as possible. On some older cars you can fool the inertia system into locking, if you lower the seat back, set the belt and then raise the seat back up. It might not work for your car, but it’s worth a try. Ask your instructor for help.
Riding with Instructors
You may have the privilege of riding with an instructor in their car either during an instructor session (not for the faint of heart, these guys are obscenely fast) or during an advanced student session. Don’t be shy about asking for rides as most instructors love to have someone in the other seat. Once you’ve ridden with your instructor, ask another one. Each has their own style and if it is at all possible, get an instructor with a car similar to your own. This will give you a good idea as to its potential performance and handling characteristics.
When you ride with an instructor keep three things in mind.
They know what they are doing. If they didn’t, the chief instructor would not have invited them. They will be going very fast and things happen in a big hurry. Most of them don’t mind you talking to them, but ask just to make sure.
Don’t compare yourself to the instructors. They have years experience and know how their car will react at any given moment. Forget about the speed and watch the line they take in the turns. If everything is done right, the car will naturally hit the apex and track out to the proper position.
Watch their hands and feet. The biggest secret to high performance driving is BE SMOOTH!
The steering input, throttle application, braking and shifting may appear violent at first, but it should be smooth and no more harsh than necessary. They should not be making any unnecessary movements of the steering wheel, turning it only as far as it takes to get the car through the turn.
Braking should be firm and definite. The car should slow to the right speed and then the brakes will be gently released. Downshifts should be barely noticeable except for a rise in engine revs.
The throttle should be applied smoothly and when the entire lap is finished you will notice now gentle it all seemed. Just because a driver is working hard doesn’t mean they are fast. The best ones are so good it seems effortless.
Car Care
This type of driving puts extra strain on both you and the vehicle. If you’re in a BMW or other German car this is how they are intended to be driven. Even with the fine engineering they still need some extra TLC at the track so here’s a short list of things to check:
Before EVERY session:
Check the engine oil. Make sure it’s full, but don’t overfill it either.
Check the wheel bolt tightness.
Clean the windshield.
Inspect the tires for cuts or imbedded objects.
At the beginning of each day:
Check all the fluid levels.
Check the tire pressure.
Look for fluid leaks.
Make sure you have at least 1/2 tank of gas.
In case no one mentions it to you:
NEVER SET THE PARKING BRAKE AFTER A TRACK SESSION!
It’s a great habit on the street, but at the track it’s a recipe for stuck rear brakes. The rotors get so hot during track use they are subject to warping and sticking if you apply the parking brake. Just park on level ground, put it in reverse and let it cool down.
Know What You are Learning
It’s easy to be overwhelmed with all the information you’ll be receiving, but try to come away with some basic concepts. If you master only two skills from this school, it will be money well spent.
Look up! The human brain is one of God’s masterpieces. We’re internally hard wired to go where we look. If you learn the skill of looking through the turn you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find that if you have done everything right up to that point (enter the turn at the correct speed) you’ll end up going where you look. Concentrating on the 10 feet directly over the hood is one of the worst habits any driver can have. The farther ahead you look, the more time you have to weigh the options and make a good decision.
Be smooth with the inputs. Nothing upsets the car more than a jerky throttle, steering and braking. If you’re doing it right, it’s smooth.
Are We Having Fun Yet?
If you have any problems communicating with your instructor, let them know. Chances are that they just don’t recognize what you need. Everyone is different. If you need lots of feedback, make them aware of that fact. If they’re talking too much or not giving you any positive reinforcement, say something. If you are not getting the kind of help you need or not having any fun, ask the classroom instructor about getting a new instructor.
Most first timers are anxious to ask for another instructor, but don’t be shy. If you have a great instructor let them know. If you want someone else, do it at the end of the first day. Whatever you do, don’t go away wishing you had spoken up. Just make sure you do it in a mature adult fashion. However keep in mind that the problem could be your attitude. If you’re having the same problem with a second instructor, re-examine your actions and see if the problem is you.
What can you do to make the car better?
Don’t go overboard on modifications. Take it one step at a time and you’ll save money and frustration. Most changes to the car are unnecessary until you hone your skills with several schools. Should you want to invest in some extra goodies for your ride, consider these:
Safety equipment
Handling and brake upgrades
Creature comforts at the track
Until you’ve had at least a dozen schools, you don’t need to be concerned with more horsepower.
The best investments in the beginning are:
Good harnesses. Nothing adds more confidence and comfort than being held firmly in the car. Having to use the steering wheel as a brace is the quickest way to lose concentration.
Better brake pads. This is a case of the right tool for the job.
Fresh suspension. New bushings, ball joints, and shocks will go a long way toward making even an older car handle like new.
A good seat. A well made seat will make you a part of the car and enable you to get a much better feel of how the chassis talks to you.
Some good driving shoes and gloves. These help you fine tune the interface of you and the car (plus they look sharp!).
Anything that will make the day at the track more enjoyable such as a canopy (be sure it will fit in the car) and a good folding chair.
Just exactly what is the Red Mist?
If you hear an instructor warn you about the red mist, what they are referring to is the tendency for drivers to make bad decisions. These lapses in judgment can be attributed to:
Fatigue
Ego
Overconfidence
Lack of experience
Dehydration
No one can do anything to control your ego, but you. We can remind you to
Drink plenty of water and/or Gatorade. Forget the colas...they just make you more thirsty.
Get plenty of rest.
Don’t drive if you’re overheated.
If you are too tired to have some fun, you are too tired to be a safe driver. Don’t think you have to drive every lap to get your money’s worth. If you find that you cannot concentrate, sit out a session. The track will still be there later and you’ll have more fun if you are able to focus.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
you do NOT need a roll cage.
you do NOT need special tires.
you do NOT need special brake pads.
your car as it currently sits is perfectly fine.
special tires are a crutch and will teach and enforce bad habits. Learning on street tires is the BEST way to learn.
special brake pads, again, bad habits, street brake pads are much more progressive.
4.30 gears are PERFECT for a 4v.
tall shifters are useful for smoother shifts because you don't need to move your arm as far away from the steering wheel, but since you're used to your current shifter you should NOT change it.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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SteveL
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Member # 1241
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posted
Some club events require a roll cage in a convertible and if you have a convertible, some require a full face helmet (ie it has a visor).
In general, motorcycle helmets are OK however, some clubs (like NorCal Shelby) will check the date code on the helmet to make sure it is a year 2000 or 2005 (the 2010 helmets are just now shipping).
Best bet is to check with the organizer on the required safety items.
As far as the car, most important is that the car is safe to run. It's not leaking fluids, you're not down to the last millimeter of brake pads, you're muffler is not hanging by a coat wire hanger, etc.
Other than that, don't worry about it.
Posts: 578 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: May 2002
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9cobra7
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Member # 2812
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posted
Yeah my shifter is custom made and it's damn tall but my seat is moved way back. So is the steering wheel and and the foot pedals.
430's may be a little to much but you will find out when your out there. Just worry more about your driving smoothness and the "line" around the track and safe driving more than anything. Worry about going fast as you progress in the sport, it takes a while so don't rush any of this.
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If you can't walk and chew gum at the same time, don't walk.
Posts: 2633 | From: usa | Registered: May 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
Thanks for all the info guys! Blind...thats definitely a great read you posted up! It'll help me prep myself when I get out and hit the track for the first time.
I'm trying ot find a trackday (preferably at Infineon or Laguna) within the next couple months where I can get out there and try it out.
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
laguna has a sound limit on most days, 90db's or around there, basically meaning stock h-pipe and quiet mufflers would be needed in order to run and not get booted.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
laguna has a sound limit on most days, 90db's or around there, basically meaning stock h-pipe and quiet mufflers would be needed in order to run and not get booted.
oh wow, didnt know that. I have a pretty quiet exhaust with hi-flow cats, but I have no idea whether its 90db's or not ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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9cobra7
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Member # 2812
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posted
I had a similar exhaust setup on my other car and it was right at the limit. On colder days with more dense air the db's will be a littler higher but that is one of the draw backs of Laguna Seca. Go to Thunderhill, Buttonwillow or Sears Point so you can concentrate on driving and not bs like sound limits. Then do Laguna
Posts: 2633 | From: usa | Registered: May 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
Thanks for the input greg! I'm really getting anxious and need to make my way out to the track VERY soon!!!
Another question I have is what size wheels do you guys usually run, 17's or 18's and why?
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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SnakeBit
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Member # 8871
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
Thanks for all the info guys! Blind...thats definitely a great read you posted up! It'll help me prep myself when I get out and hit the track for the first time.
I'm trying ot find a trackday (preferably at Infineon or Laguna) within the next couple months where I can get out there and try it out.
Ian, let me know a date if it's Laguna or Infineon. I'm down to roll, shoot I bet my pops will want to tag along in his Vette.
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91 Coupe full M/M suspension
Maier WideBody
331 356 RWHP 357 RWTQ
Tuned by TPS MotorSports
Posts: 2707 | From: Fremont | Registered: Jan 2009
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SnakeBit:
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
Thanks for all the info guys! Blind...thats definitely a great read you posted up! It'll help me prep myself when I get out and hit the track for the first time.
I'm trying ot find a trackday (preferably at Infineon or Laguna) within the next couple months where I can get out there and try it out.
Ian, let me know a date if it's Laguna or Infineon. I'm down to roll, shoot I bet my pops will want to tag along in his Vette.
Jay, stay posted bro! I'll let you know for sure!Me and a few other guys are planning to hit up some twisties soon and possibly hit the track thanksgiving weekend. Its at Buttonwillow though, so its a bit further ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
Thanks for the input greg! I'm really getting anxious and need to make my way out to the track VERY soon!!!
Another question I have is what size wheels do you guys usually run, 17's or 18's and why?
I run stock 99GT 17x8's with 245/45's all around on my `89, because the wheels are the lightest OE ford wheels I could get, and they're cheap and the tires are cheap and easily found because they're a stock size.
I run 17x9 replica bullitt wheels on my `97 with 275/40's all around just because I like the look, but that tire size is also relatively cheap (~$800-$900 for a set of the new falken rt-615K tires). The wheels are are slightly heavier than the 17x9 wheels MM sells, but I can feel a huge difference when I run the 17x8 wheels on the car instead.
for your first several times at the track, street tires on stock sized wheels will be ideal. I've done over 60 auto-x's and several dozen HPDE track days and I still run street tires, when I can no longer beat every mustang at the event I go to including the ones on hoosier slicks with my street tires I might step up, but for now my rt-615K's and potenza re-01r's do just fine, and I can feel and hear when they are on the edge of traction and break away very controlled. I drove on slicks once at the 5th auto-x that I went to, and the car was just rediculously planted to the point where I thought I could do nothing wrong, ended up spinning backwards and almost taking out the timing lights across the finish line 3 times in a row ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif)
slicks are not forgiving when you take them to the edge, and should be a concern for a beginner through novice at all.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
Thanks for the input greg! I'm really getting anxious and need to make my way out to the track VERY soon!!!
Another question I have is what size wheels do you guys usually run, 17's or 18's and why?
I run stock 99GT 17x8's with 245/45's all around on my `89, because the wheels are the lightest OE ford wheels I could get, and they're cheap and the tires are cheap and easily found because they're a stock size.
I run 17x9 replica bullitt wheels on my `97 with 275/40's all around just because I like the look, but that tire size is also relatively cheap (~$800-$900 for a set of the new falken rt-615K tires). The wheels are are slightly heavier than the 17x9 wheels MM sells, but I can feel a huge difference when I run the 17x8 wheels on the car instead.
for your first several times at the track, street tires on stock sized wheels will be ideal. I've done over 60 auto-x's and several dozen HPDE track days and I still run street tires, when I can no longer beat every mustang at the event I go to including the ones on hoosier slicks with my street tires I might step up, but for now my rt-615K's and potenza re-01r's do just fine, and I can feel and hear when they are on the edge of traction and break away very controlled. I drove on slicks once at the 5th auto-x that I went to, and the car was just rediculously planted to the point where I thought I could do nothing wrong, ended up spinning backwards and almost taking out the timing lights across the finish line 3 times in a row
slicks are not forgiving when you take them to the edge, and should be a concern for a beginner through novice at all.
I definitley plan to run street tires. I've ran the older Falken RT615's and they were nice, but I heard great things about the RE01R's and want to try those out next.
My current 18" Saleen wheels have Nitto 555's on them right now but I'm not sure whether I want to use that set of wheels for a trackday or to buy a set of 17" rims/tires .
Can you feel a difference between 17" and 18" wheels when open tracking?
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
sure, in your pocket book as the 18" wheels have more expensive tires ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
run what you have, unless they're showing cords they're fine!
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
sure, in your pocket book as the 18" wheels have more expensive tires
run what you have, unless they're showing cords they're fine!
Thanks man! I'll run my 18" Saleens w/ Nitto 555's. Not sure if they'd pass inspection with slight tearing on the edges from rubbing the quarter panels though:confused: I need to roll my rear fenders soon...
[ October 19, 2010, 06:17 PM: Message edited by: SydeWaySix ]
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
sure, in your pocket book as the 18" wheels have more expensive tires
run what you have, unless they're showing cords they're fine!
Thanks man! I'll run my 18" Saleens w/ Nitto 555's. Not sure if they'd pass inspection with slight tearing on the edges from rubbing the quarter panels though:confused: I need to roll my rear fenders soon...
they should be fine unless it's really bad.
btw, the 615K's are worlds improved over the old 615's, the re01r's you can't get anymore, replaced by the RE11's. Dunlop star spec's and the new hankook's, evo v12 I think? are the ones to try out now.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
sure, in your pocket book as the 18" wheels have more expensive tires
run what you have, unless they're showing cords they're fine!
Thanks man! I'll run my 18" Saleens w/ Nitto 555's. Not sure if they'd pass inspection with slight tearing on the edges from rubbing the quarter panels though:confused: I need to roll my rear fenders soon...
they should be fine unless it's really bad.
btw, the 615K's are worlds improved over the old 615's, the re01r's you can't get anymore, replaced by the RE11's. Dunlop star spec's and the new hankook's, evo v12 I think? are the ones to try out now.
wow, so much has chnagedin the tire game ![[Eek!]](eek.gif) I havent really researched "performance" tires in about two years so I'm pretty much out the loop
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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SteveL
¯
Member # 1241
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SydeWaySix:
what size wheels do you guys usually run, 17's or 18's and why?
17's for four reasons: 17" tires are cheaper, there's more tire selection, 17" rims fit over the front brakes, and I had 17" rims and would rather put the money into more tires than replacing rims.
Posts: 578 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: May 2002
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SteveL
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Member # 1241
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posted
Just one other note since this seems to be happening a little too often.
If your car becomes disabled while you're on the track, stay in the car and buckled up unless it's on fire in which case you get the hell out of there.
Posts: 578 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: May 2002
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