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Author
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Topic: Engine-Build & More (LOTS OF PICS!)
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
 
quote:
Originally posted by 92_5.0:
those 07' V6 wheels look really nice on that year,(IMO), this is the first time i've seen that combo, great choice bro ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
Thanks! It just kinda happened, I found a good/used set off of a wrecked 07 for $150. Had to buy spacers and tires so I do have plenty of money invested. All in all it's been worth the investment. It was either these or the bullets. Personally I think the bullets have been played out.
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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eastoaklandss
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Member # 8011
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posted
good job... looks like you know what your doin!
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1970 chevelle ls2 6spd
1989 6.0 ls2 notchback
1999 camaro ss 10.3 @130 old setup/13.7 @114 new setup lol
1986 5.0 t-bird
1991 notchback charged
Posts: 411 | From: Oakland/Hayward | Registered: Nov 2007
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welch93lx
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Member # 8748
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by eastoaklandss:
good job... looks like you know what your doin!
+1..da heads look very good too..good luck
[ December 20, 2008, 05:24 AM: Message edited by: welch93lx ]
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1991 LX HAtchback
R.I.P LUIS
Posts: 705 | From: modesto | Registered: Nov 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by welch93lx:
quote:
Originally posted by eastoaklandss:
good job... looks like you know what your doin!
+1..da heads look very good too..good luck
Thanks!
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
Sweet project man. How many coils did you cut off the springs? Looks like 1 full coil?
Also, you said in the original post you had ported '85 heads, but the pic you have shows a D8OE casting, that's a '78 part number. No big deal, as the D8OE and E5TE's have a 69cc combustion chamber, but just an FYI.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by wilit:
Sweet project man. How many coils did you cut off the springs? Looks like 1 full coil?
Also, you said in the original post you had ported '85 heads, but the pic you have shows a D8OE casting, that's a '78 part number. No big deal, as the D8OE and E5TE's have a 69cc combustion chamber, but just an FYI.
Thanks! I cut off 1.5 coils total. There are 2 pieces there because I started with 1 and decided to cut off .5 more.
Good eye for detail but you'll see the E5 heads are in the "before" pics and the '78 heads are in the "after" pics. ORIGINALLY the car came with the E5 heads. The '78 heads are fully ported 351 W heads that I recently installed.
There wasn't anything wrong with the E5 heads and as a matter of fact I'm selling them cheap for $100.
Funny story how that came about. I actually thought the E5 heads were E6 heads originally, so I bought the ported D8 ones before I pulled the heads off the motor.
Once I pulled them off I was a little frustrated that I took em off but happy to see that I didn't have E6's ...(The worst heads Ford ever made).
It wasn't a total waste as the heads still needed to come off so I could check out the pistons and such. I seriouosly would have ran the E5 heads as-is though had I known they were in such good shape, having had a mild port and larger valves.
Oh well, it all worked out and I ended up with a great finished product. It was a great experience doing the valve job on the '78 heads also. ..It's been over 12 years since I've done any valve machining so it brought back some good memories.
The '78 heads I decided to use were already ported and polished with undercut one-piece stainless valves. They just needed a basic valve job before being bolted on. They will flow WAY BETTER so I decided to use em. Stock to stock they are basically the same head as the '85's though as you said.
[ December 23, 2008, 04:34 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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phat50
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Member # 1998
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posted
[ December 25, 2008, 07:01 AM: Message edited by: phat50 ]
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New toy coming soon!
Posts: 2860 | From: Richmond / Valley jo/ Petaluma | Registered: Oct 2002
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
Got it up and running again folks!
-Battery Choice
... Optima Red-Top
-Alternator Choice
... 1988 5.0 Mustang/T-Bird 75 Amp Internally Regulated Alternator
Cost = $100 out the door for alternator and new factory Ford style connectors. $170 for the Optima
Concerns and questions I had to consider...
... First off what's going to be cost effective?
... Alternator fitment late model to early?
... 80-90-100-140 Amp ALT versus common 75 amp?
... Internally regulated versus external?
... Wiring modifications, etc?
Either a 45 or 60 amp externally regulated alternator came stock in '65. You had a choice of the 2. It's hard to tell which one you have. I probably had the 45 considering how quick it objected to the new accessories.
Originally I wanted to use a 90 or 100 amp but I found out those alternators are HUGE in size! The casing is 1/4 bigger in size at least. I measured it out and I would need to completely redo all of my pulleys and brackets just to get the thing to fit and line up, and I can forget about my factory dipstick tube clearance.
So I thought about all of this first.
(Usually a good idea) ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
I'm just going to have to use an alternator with the same small case as the 45-60 amp.
I researched my options and found out quickly that anything over 80 amps, factory or aftermarket, all have a HUGE case.
During my research I found a few 80 amp options that "might" have been a small-case but they were all special-order. No one had one and I couldn't actually put my hands on one to make sure of it's size. So I wasn't going to risk it.
I kept landing on the later model 75 amp alternator from a 1988 or so 5.0 (T-Bird and Mustang) as being the most common and highest amperage in the small case. It has exactly the same dimensions and bolt-up as my old '65 style and they are plentiful, cheap, and are internally regulated for easier wiring.
I did the math on my circuitry and decided 75 amps is good enough for my application. I gave up the idea of the gargantuan 100+ Amp setup and decided to go with the more common. All I have extra on my car is the electric fan and electric fuel pump. Total amperage draw combined is about 25 amps max. Add that to the stock 45 amp alternator and viola! I'm in the ballpark with some to spare. I don't plan to add any serious sound systems in the future either so the 75 amp should work.
The installation of the 75 amp 5.0 alternator was pretty basic. The modifications included zapping off the serpentine belt pulley and install my v-belt pulley. (Auto parts store did this for me and it fit fine). I needed the 2 pig-tail electrical plugs for the later model alternator and I found one at Napa and one at Auto Zone. Total cost for the connectors was about $15 plus the gas from store to store. I did have to do a little dinging to my dipstick tube as the back of the alternator was a hair deeper but this was minimal.
I used the wiring diagram below in combination with a little wiring wizardry of my own to get it all wired up (pretty basic actually). I bypassed the stock regulator all together as this one has the regulator attached to the back. (Ford's rendition of an internally regulated alternator) The only wire I needed to cut into and reuse from the original regulator harness was the idiot light wire for the dash. (just because I like things to be right) Everything else was cake and I just ran new wires from the connectors to the battery, etc.
I managed to get everything installed in less than a few hours including rewiring and my pocket book isn't too stressed.
Here's the wiring diagrams I used to wire it all up.
[ December 25, 2008, 06:51 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
Ran the car today for at least 2-3 hours with all accessories on, sitting at idle. Everything is great so far. Headlights didn't dim at all, starts right up and the battery seems to have plenty of reserve. I don't have a volt meter hooked up right now so I can't be 100% sure but so far so good.
Success!
Happy Holidays everyone!
[ December 25, 2008, 04:21 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
NOW ON TO SOME TUNING!!
Latest tinkering...
Installed the proper "steel" distributor gear in place of the brass one that had worn out making my timing a little irratic. Very noticeable difference in performance.
Recurved the MSD distributor with the MSD recurve kit.
Used the lightest-weight springs (silver) and smallest (red) stop-bushing so I get maximum timing soonest and the most at 2800.
I haven't checked it with a light yet but it's close and about as far advanced as it can handle
(used the trusty "power-tune" method, 3k rpms and advance until misfire and back off a tad until it runs smooth and responds well)
According to MSD that choice of springs and stop-bushing should result in 36-38 degrees total advance at 2800 rpm, with 10 degrees initial, at about 750 rpm, and the timing starts increasing at about 850 rpm with a fairly steep incline.
RESULTS:
..No detonation/pinging so far and it loves it! Very responsive off-idle and torque across the board! I'm going to need a posi and some good tires for sure. If I'm not careful it just lights the tires up through first and second from a 30mph roll.
This motor has great potential. Once I get this thing completely dialed in I'm going to have to dyno it and see what's up.
Very happy so far!
[ January 06, 2009, 03:04 PM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by bwkelley76:
Installed the proper "steel" distributor gear in place of the brass one that had worn out...
Please tell me you changed the oil afterwards...
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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1FAST89GT
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Member # 5071
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posted
so did u just do a head job and cam or did u do anything to the lower end hense engine build?
Posts: 4915 | From: VALLEJO | Registered: May 2004
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by JohnB:
quote:
Originally posted by bwkelley76:
Installed the proper "steel" distributor gear in place of the brass one that had worn out...
Please tell me you changed the oil afterwards...
yes of course...lol
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 1FAST89GT:
so did u just do a head job and cam or did u do anything to the lower end hense engine build?
Freshening up the lower end came to mind but I didn't have the time or money last semester. More to come though. I may tear a little more into it if the funds come available and I do have a few ideas.
The lower-end was salvageable for now so I'm planning on making it useful until I sort some other things out on the car.
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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306MAVERICK
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Member # 7831
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posted
Man seein that makes me miss my 65 stang. Nice car,I like how you painted the valve covers,they actually look better painted.
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74 Maverick-12.70@105mph 1.8860 ft(rear suspension mods awaiting installation)
64 Falcon-Fuel Injected 5.0(project)
RICHMOND MUSCLE CAR CLUB
Posts: 30 | From: RICHMOND | Registered: Aug 2007
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 306MAVERICK:
Man seein that makes me miss my 65 stang. Nice car,I like how you painted the valve covers,they actually look better painted.
Thanks and you're right, they do look better. I actually had an interesting agenda, the chrome was getting a little pitted and I really didn't like the covers in chrome, thought they looked cheap. Due to a lack of funds I decided to shoot them with some paint instead of spending big bucks on nicer ones.
The "cast-Iron grey" is actually something I've used over the years on a few combos and it looks really clean if it's put on thick and clean enough. I think the first one I did was My '90 lx. It needed a little face lift and I painted the upper intake and valve covers with the grey. I had a cut-open and welded upper manifold and I also wanted to hide the welds and it did a great job of it.
[ January 06, 2009, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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91MSDFox
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Member # 8749
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posted
What school did you/are you attending?
Overall Good Program?
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quote:
Originally posted by jordan_0806:
jae jae has one but it's usually doing donuts in his car while he's video taping....
Posts: 324 | From: Richmond | Registered: Nov 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 91MSDFox:
What school did you/are you attending?
Overall Good Program?
ARC "American River College" main campus in Sacramento. I'm getting my smog license currently (almost done) and then on to my general ed for mechanical engineering, hoping to transfer to Davis or Sac State for my Masters. I've taken many courses over the years at other colleges including factory Ford, Chrysler, and GM courses as well as Industrial Ed, Welding, and Collision Repair. (Don't ask me to do body work though...lol) I have well over 10 years of dealership experience as a line-tech. Now I'm moving on to diagnosis and have strayed from the dealerships all together. Just not happy with the politics, etc.
Yes they have a very good automotive program at ARC, especially for a community college. They offer all of the BAR classes for emissions and ASE certification alternative courses as well as an automotive analysis certificate curriculum that is outstanding. They have 2 emissions dynos and one in-ground non-emissions dyno. The smog referee station is moving into the shop over winter break also.
I haven't been to Mather Field yet to look at the facilities there. They have bio-diesel, collision repair, and a few other things out there and it's supposed to be a huge facility.
The project class I'm taking for the Mustang is called "Speed and Skill Development". I'm taking it just for fun and it's only offered for advanced students. It's a "fun" class and it's their way of paying students back for their participation and experience in automotive. ..You basically just need automotive experience (1+ year I think) and you get to play with your own project car on Fridays from 7:30 am until 2pm.
[ January 08, 2009, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
Started the body work (See Pics!)
replaced the passenger door with good/used straight piece. Replaced the r/f headlight bucket, replaced the hood with a good/used straight piece.
R/F fender has a crack in it and a stretched area, but not too bad, going to fix it.
I tried bolting on 3 different new aftermarket fenders and they were no where close to fitting!
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
Body work is coming along real nice. Sanded through to metal in most areas, looks like 2-3 paint jobs worth, not bad. Minor amount of filler was found, no rust or cancer, started flowing a thin layer of filler on the r/r quarter and back panel. r/r quarter was a little wavy but no major issues yet.
[ January 25, 2009, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
HEADER SWAP
Swapped out the Flow-Tech full-length 1.5" primary headers for Hedman Mid-Length 1 5/8" primary headers. Had to extend and reshape the head-pipes with mandrel bent tubing.
RESULTS: Gained over 2-3" of ground clearance, no more bottoming out on speed-bumps and driveways, sounds much deeper throatier, better power and response, much happier with this setup...
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
Car is now For Sale, I just acquired 2 more projects and I'm outta money! Selling it cheap and need cash fast. :0(
(ad is in classifieds)
latest pics
[ February 27, 2009, 02:46 AM: Message edited by: bwkelley76 ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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bwkelley76
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Member # 8792
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posted
SOLD! Stay tuned for the next 2 projects! ..you know me, lots of pics, etc. lol
[ March 01, 2009, 11:44 AM: Message edited by: JohnB ]
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Dont sweat the petty things and dont pet the sweaty things. "RIP George Carlin"
Posts: 886 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2008
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