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Author
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Topic: fuel pump install???
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eighty8mclaren
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Member # 2751
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posted
 
 
Finnaly, just got my walbro 155 delivered! But I have never done a fuel pump install. Can someone please tell me where to start and what to do. Thank you.
Posts: 100 | From: los angeles | Registered: Apr 2003
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SydeWaySix
CAFords OG
Member # 3596
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posted
hopefully you don't have much gas in the tank so it's light, but undo the straps from under the tank, take out the four screws for the filler tube (by the gas cap), disconnect the wiring then drop the tank down.
you can use a floor jack to slowly let the tank down if there's alot of fuel still in it. careful not to make sparks, there's a quarter-turn metal ring holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank, just twist and pull it out. replace the pump in the assembly and put on the new sock.
drop it back into the tank (will take patience working it past the sumps in the tank) and just work backwards from there. sorry if i left anything out, good luck,
phil
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2013 Boss 302 #356. Performance White. Stock.
1965 Fastback GT Restored to stock spec.
Posts: 9882 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2002
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eighty8mclaren
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Member # 2751
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posted
Thanks Phil, Im on my way to go burn some gas because I do have a full tank. lol But the info is much appreciated.
Posts: 100 | From: los angeles | Registered: Apr 2003
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347 Stroker
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Member # 4039
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posted
86-93 Mustang
Tools:
Floor Jack
Jack stands
12" plywood or board
Siphon and bucket (if needed)
1/2" socket w/ (6 or 8")extension (3/8" drive)
5/16" socket w/extension (1/4" drive)
rust penetrating oil
Flat tip screwdriver
Rag
Bucket
Goggles
Hammer
brush or better yet compressed air can
Directions:
1.Disconnect battery
2.Siphon fuel if needed. I had about 1/3 tank of gas and did not need to siphon and the tank was not to unwieldy.
3.Jack up car from rear on center of axle housing (Pumpkin Ball). Follow normal jacking precautions.
4.Support car with two jack stands under the rear axle and near the tires. I had the rear wheels about 5" off the ground. Remove hydraulic floor jack (this is used to help lower the fuel tank).
5.At this point I removed the fuel filter. It is located in front of the tank centered between the rear wheels. Use flat tip screwdriver to loosen hose clamp that holds filter. Next pry on the white plastic (hairpin) clips that hold the fuel lines to the filter (one on each end). There may be some gas leakage when the lines are pulled, ESPECIALLY IF THE LINES ARE STILL PRESSURIZED.
Use goggles, rag and bucket to minimize drippings. The clips come out perpendicular to the lines and there is a triangular tab to pry on. Don't break
them unless you bought a new filter (it comes w/ two replacement clips). Pull hose off each end of filter.
6.While under car it is a good time to use some penetrating oil on the two 1/2" bolts that hold the tank brackets to the chassis. They can be difficult. They are to each side of the filter.
7.Using 5/16" socket w/extension remove 3 screws inside fuel fill door. I also removed 4 screws on the inside of the panel that hold a rubber cover to the backside of the fill door cavity. There is also a smaller size screw that
attaches a bracket to the fill side of the tank. It has a loop that goes around the fill pipe.
8.This whole assembly needs to be loose to drop the tank. You should be able to pull on this assembly, out of the fill door area, and it should start to slide out of the tank. There is a rubber grommet around the fuel pipe at the tank.
You won't be able to pull it all the way out until the tank drops a little.
9.Try loosening the tank bracket bolts now. If still tight try more penetrating oil.
(DO NOT REMOVE THEM UNTIL YOU HAVE SUPPORTED THE TANK).
10.If the bolts are loose put floor jack under the tank center. Use a piece of wood to lift with to distribute the weight. Once the tank is supported you can remove the bracket bolts. I was able to swing the brackets vertical at the height I had lifted my car.
11.Disconnect: At the rear of the car at center there is an electrical connector that goes to the pump. Disconnect it.
12.There is a plastic loop at the front of the tank that the fuel lines run through. I cut this but I guess it could be pulled out of the chassis.
13.While one guy slowly lowers the tank the other can work the fill pipe the rest of the way out of the tank. The gas tank has to be emptied to below this level or it will run out. Always look for lines or electrical connections that might be
binding. The tank may want to drop one side more than the other but it was manageable with two guys. We were able at this point to set the tank on the ground without stretching any lines.
14.The pump assembly goes in the tank on the right hand side (from back of car) on a high spot on the tank. Clean this area as well as possible to prevent dirt from getting into the tank upon removal. I wiped the area and used an air gun
to blow dirt away (good idea!). My assembly was oriented with a red electrical plug towards the rear of the car and the two metal lines facing the front of the car. You can take off the electrical plug by using a screwdriver to pry on the
catch clip between the plug and the metal lines. The clips on the metal lines are two different types. One is identical to the fuel filter clips (hairpin). The other has two tabs that need to be depressed. The clip comes out the end of the holder and stays around the metal line. You should be able to separate the flexible line from the metal lines.
15.The pump assembly is held in with a large locking ring. It has 4 tabs sticking up. You should be able to see the three bent over flaps that hold it on and the notches you have to rotate it to in order to remove it. I used some penitrating oil here also. Using a hammer and 3/8" extension tap on one of the tabs to rotate the ring counterclockwise. Do not use a screwdriver, it just bent the tab.
Once the ring is off the pump assembly should be free. In my case I had to rotate the assembly 180 DEGREES to remove it. It has a "z" shape to it and
takes some wiggling to remove.
16.At this point you should be all set. Install pump in assembly and reverse.
Hope this helps,
Scott
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87GT/5spd
347/N20
Posts: 14 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Jan 2004
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eighty8mclaren
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Member # 2751
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posted
thanks man, i just got that same info off a webpage earlier. but I appreciate the help!
Posts: 100 | From: los angeles | Registered: Apr 2003
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1SLOWLX
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Member # 558
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posted
ditch the 155 and get a 255 so you don't have to do it twice
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Built Tuff with your stuff ;)
Posts: 5231 | From: bay area | Registered: Nov 2001
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4RS FED
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Member # 2067
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 1SLOWLX:
ditch the 155 and get a 255 so you don't have to do it twice
why do all that work, just by my sumped gas tank,
and then run an Aeromotive A1000 and your all set ![[Whoo Whooooo!]](graemlins/woowoo.gif)
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i have a twin turbo mustang and you don't!
Posts: 3686 | From: 650 | Registered: Nov 2002
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eighty8mclaren
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Member # 2751
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posted
that all looks nice but too bad Im broke!!!! why would I want to push all that fuel when I dont really have any mods but headers and pullys? maybe when I go 331 I will go bigger. But as of right now I need to stop breaking down.
Posts: 100 | From: los angeles | Registered: Apr 2003
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1SLOWLX
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Member # 558
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posted
even if you have a 302 the 255 won't hurt at all
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Built Tuff with your stuff ;)
Posts: 5231 | From: bay area | Registered: Nov 2001
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
All you guys are saying to unbolt the tank with the filler neck attached. I've done this a few times an I find it much easier to unbolt the tank, un hook all lines and wiring, unbolt the 5/16 bracket that holds the filler neck to the tank, and then lower the jack will sliding the filer neck out of the tank. It is a lot easier to slid the filer neck out that it is to unbolt the eintire neck from the car, and it is easier to put back in when you're done.
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90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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eighty8mclaren
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Member # 2751
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posted
thanks for the advise, and a bunch of people told me to go 155 NOT 255. long story short, its too late. I have the 155
Posts: 100 | From: los angeles | Registered: Apr 2003
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JUNKYARD5.0
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Member # 10398
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by phil a:
hopefully you don't have much gas in the tank so it's light, but undo the straps from under the tank, take out the four screws for the filler tube (by the gas cap), disconnect the wiring then drop the tank down.
you can use a floor jack to slowly let the tank down if there's alot of fuel still in it. careful not to make sparks, there's a quarter-turn metal ring holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank, just twist and pull it out. replace the pump in the assembly and put on the new sock.
drop it back into the tank (will take patience working it past the sumps in the tank) and just work backwards from there. sorry if i left anything out, good luck,
phil
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
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"My team doesn't make hits, we hit home runs"
86 Coupe-Storage
91 Coupe-Sold
91 Hatch-In Progress...
04 SVT-RIP
Posts: 1854 | From: WEST Menlo | Registered: Oct 2010
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JUNKYARD5.0
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Member # 10398
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by JUNKYARD5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by phil a:
hopefully you don't have much gas in the tank so it's light, but undo the straps from under the tank, take out the four screws for the filler tube (by the gas cap), disconnect the wiring then drop the tank down.
you can use a floor jack to slowly let the tank down if there's alot of fuel still in it. careful not to make sparks, there's a quarter-turn metal ring holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank, just twist and pull it out. replace the pump in the assembly and put on the new sock.
drop it back into the tank (will take patience working it past the sumps in the tank) and just work backwards from there. sorry if i left anything out, good luck,
phil
Yup, definitely Haunted! ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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"My team doesn't make hits, we hit home runs"
86 Coupe-Storage
91 Coupe-Sold
91 Hatch-In Progress...
04 SVT-RIP
Posts: 1854 | From: WEST Menlo | Registered: Oct 2010
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JUNKYARD5.0
¯
Member # 10398
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posted
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"My team doesn't make hits, we hit home runs"
86 Coupe-Storage
91 Coupe-Sold
91 Hatch-In Progress...
04 SVT-RIP
Posts: 1854 | From: WEST Menlo | Registered: Oct 2010
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30Tunes
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Member # 8105
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posted
I was thinking about doing a fuel pump install on mine. My boys has a stock 50 and his fuel pump is way louder than mine. Should i replace?
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SUCCESS ONLY COMES BEFORE WORK IN THE DICTIONARY
1991 Calypso Green Notch
1993 Cobra Clone - SOLD
Posts: 829 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Dec 2007
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phil a
¯
Member # 6951
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by JUNKYARD5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by JUNKYARD5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by phil a:
hopefully you don't have much gas in the tank so it's light, but undo the straps from under the tank, take out the four screws for the filler tube (by the gas cap), disconnect the wiring then drop the tank down.
you can use a floor jack to slowly let the tank down if there's alot of fuel still in it. careful not to make sparks, there's a quarter-turn metal ring holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank, just twist and pull it out. replace the pump in the assembly and put on the new sock.
drop it back into the tank (will take patience working it past the sumps in the tank) and just work backwards from there. sorry if i left anything out, good luck,
phil
Yup, definitely Haunted!
now THAT is weird lol!
Posts: 1261 | From: toledo oh | Registered: Jul 2006
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triple b
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Member # 8763
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by eighty8mclaren:
thanks for the advise, and a bunch of people told me to go 155 NOT 255. long story short, its too late. I have the 155
betterlate than never your going regret not doing it right the first time your car can have a 2000lph pump an still burn the same amount of fuel it just circulates more
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1988 4cyl conv 306 HCI "sasha"
2004 tahoe
Sold- 87 GT, 72 chevelle, 63 biscane, 82 monte carlo, 73 nova, 88 silverado,
Posts: 1730 | From: sacramento ca | Registered: Nov 2008
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