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Author
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Topic: Auto tranny Q's
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DropTopFox
drama
Member # 1689
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posted
 
 
I'm sticking with the tranny with the possibility of a t-56 swap in the distant future but for now I want this tranny to do some damage. I have decided to go with the Transgo shift kit because I have heard nothing but good things about chirping through gears with this kit. I also want to get a bigger torque converter. I was thinking like 3000-3500 stall from either B&M or TCI. If anyone could tell me what a good reliable converter is then I'd be greatly appreciative. Obviously performance is most in mind. Then I am going to get the tranny cooler from Steeda to help things last a bit longer. I guess I have it all fgured out except the torque converter. Which one should I get???
Thanks,
Ryan ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
[ January 14, 2003, 01:38 AM: Message edited by: PseudoCobra ]
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Go out and do something for yourself today everyone, quit depending on others
-Me
http://www.CaliforniaFords.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=00001689
Posts: 4003 | From: San Bruno | Registered: Aug 2002
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PunkINa5.SLOW
¯
Member # 10
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posted
PI converters are really nice pieces from my experience as are Art Carr.
I say 2800-3200 ish but with 4.10s and on the bottle you may be right and 3000-3500 work better.
Man stall speed can make SUCH a difference as far as 60 foot is concerned.
I had an AOD with 4.10s and 3200 Emerald converter and loved it but never got to try the bottle on it.
As far as shift kits I say you cant go wrong with the transgo.
Be careful tho I went through about 2 valve bodies and had the tranny out 11 times the first converter and shift kit swap I did.
You live and learn.
have you looked into the PA valve body?
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
The stall speed of the converter depends on where you are making your power in your motor known as the torque curve. You want the verter stalled right below that so when you launch it is at peak torue. If it is too low or high it will only hurt your et. I believe that anything above 3000 is too high of a stall for a street car.
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Support our troops!
Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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DropTopFox
drama
Member # 1689
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posted
no i haven't looked into the PA vlve body yet and if it's gonna help that would be good too. I want this thing to keep it's realiability. So you sayin I should get it dynoed before I get the torque converter??? ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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Go out and do something for yourself today everyone, quit depending on others
-Me
http://www.CaliforniaFords.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=00001689
Posts: 4003 | From: San Bruno | Registered: Aug 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
dan, you say you used an emerald but you suggested pi or art carr, why not emerald?
Kevin with the grey nova has an emerald 4,200 stall that is VERY streetable. And my sister has an emerald 3,200 stall that you don't even notice slipping below 3,200. From what i have seen they are the best street converters because they don't slip much under the stall speed but they will actually stall to what they are advertised.
I'm looking into buying a new converter, that's why I ask.
Best AOD valve body on earth is made by Lentech. No more 1-2-1-2 shuffle.
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
slipping is when you have a high stall, you have to give it more gas to get it to start moving from a stop.
when you're at a stop you need to give it twice as much gas to get it moving until you get close to the stall rpm. I had a 2500 stall and it didn't ruin any drivability. I think it actually makes the car more fun to drive because it makes the car less "touchy" from a dead stop.
Like Jared said, anything more than 3000 might be a bit much for a TRUE street car.
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Tyrant89
¯
Member # 1033
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posted
I run a Lentech street terminator non-lock. It came with a 2900ish stall. I was originally leaning to a milder street stall, they said don't even bother.
The drivability is great.I notice almost no difference with the higher stall around the street. W/ injectors, heads/cam I still managed around 15mpg on the street, 22 on the highway.
Don't listen to the stick guys, your AOD can be a fast & fun car if you modify it. However, a STOCK AOD sucks.
Personally, I would skip the shift kit and get a Lentech Valve Body & Converter combo. Either way, get an external Tranny cooler. A tech at Lentech (no pun!) said that a newer GT tranny temp. ran 20deg+ cooler by bypassing the stock radiator line & running an external cooler only (compared to running both).
[ January 15, 2003, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: Tyrant89 ]
Posts: 260 | From: Salinas, holmes! | Registered: Mar 2002
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j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026
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posted
And get a hardened input shaft
Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Tyrant89:
A tech at Lentech (no pun!) said that a newer GT tranny temp. ran 20deg+ cooler by bypassing the stock radiator line & running an external cooler only (compared to running both).
Are you positive on this info? When I installed my external tranny cooler I figured why not leave the radiator tranny cooler one hooked up? Twice the cooling right? Well I don't know.
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Support our troops!
Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
jared, i think it depends on how it's hooked up.
I figure if the hot trans fluid comes out of the trans to the radiator first then it'll cool it a bit and then the external cooler will cool it even more. However if you hook it up the otherway the external cooler might cool it so well that the engine coolant in the radiator actually heats up the trans fluid on it's way back to the trans.
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Tyrant89
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Member # 1033
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posted
Sir paint is right, you allways want the external to be last in the flow loop.
I was told to bypass the radiator's lines by both Lentech and the guy who sold me my Ron Davis unit. However, if you use an aluminum Radiator, then you may not need to.
Lastly, I read in the truck magazines that in freezing weather, you want the radiator to pre-warm the fluid before returning to the tranny. Perhaps this is why companies don't reccomend running the external by itself?
Anyone else know?
Posts: 260 | From: Salinas, holmes! | Registered: Mar 2002
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DropTopFox
drama
Member # 1689
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posted
well why I live it never gets near freezing so should I just run the external tranny cooler or both. I was thinking about getting the one that steeda sells which I believe is made by B&M. It's only like $50. WHat do you guys think.
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Go out and do something for yourself today everyone, quit depending on others
-Me
http://www.CaliforniaFords.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=00001689
Posts: 4003 | From: San Bruno | Registered: Aug 2002
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Tyrant89
¯
Member # 1033
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posted
I run that one(19,000 GVW). It's a great unit. Get the largest or second largest.
Also, you can get it cheaper & faster thru Summit!
Posts: 260 | From: Salinas, holmes! | Registered: Mar 2002
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
Well I hooked myne up the right way then. My tranny cooler gos through the radiator cooler than to my external cooler. It stays real cool.
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Support our troops!
Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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Chris M.
Ignore me, all I do is argue online!
Member # 1708
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posted
only reason i can think of bypassing the radiator completely is if the radiator is old and has a bunch of shit in it. then if you bypass the crap, it stays in the radiator instead of getting in your trans.
summit part # BMM-70298 works GREAT. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Posts: 2828 | From: West Bay, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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