|
Author
|
Topic: Oils
|
2000BlackGT
Loyalty
Member # 283
|
posted
 
 
Reading about motor oil. What weight should i be putting into a 2000 GT? Is there any brand better than the other? What about this Amsoil stuff I've been hearing about, 25k miles per oil change?
Posts: 2833 | From: Chico, CA | Registered: Jun 2001
| :
|
|
Primer GR40
¯
Member # 476
|
posted
5w30. Well maybe the oil can go for 25k but its your filter that gets filled up with shit.there are large capacity filters but i just always use REgular oil regular filter. every 3k miles
--------------------
Superdupercharged Cobra
No Transmatic Notch
Posts: 2108 | Registered: Sep 2001
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
Read your owners manual on what oil to use. There is no such thing as magic oil. Buy the expensive stuff if you have a burning hole in your pocket, but don't expect your car to be any faster, run any longer, have less wear or anything else compared to an identical car that simply often changed his 99cent per quart oil. If you think magic oil will help you, you also probably believe that there is a substantial difference between Pepsi & Coke.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
We now have the independent lab test data for the new Mobil Supersyn. The Supersyn does not compare to AMSOIL's extended drain interval 25,000 mile/1-year or 35,000 mile/1-year oil (0W-30). The test data is as follows for AMSOIL 5W-30 vs. Mobil Supersyn 5W-30:
NOACK Volatility: AMSOIL: 4.90%, Supersyn: 9.17%
Flash Point: AMSOIL: 446 deg. F., Supersyn: 435 deg. F.
Fire Point: AMSOIL: 471 deg. F., Supersyn: 455 deg. F.
Pour Point: AMSOIL: - 60 deg. F, Supersyn: -54 deg. F
4-Ball Wear Test: AMSOIL 0.40 mm, Supersyn: 0.60 mm
TBN (Total Base No.): AMSOIL 12.35, Supersyn 8.45
Mobil will not recommend or guarantee 25,000 mile/1-year drain intervals like AMSOIL 5W-30, 10W-30 or 10W-40 or 35,000 mile/1-year drain intervals like AMSOIL 0W-30 Severe Service Synthetic does and that is a fact. No-where on the Mobil bottle does it state 25,000 miles/1-year or 35,000 miles/1-year.
some quick info on AMSOIL that I found.
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
VortechSaleen
¯
Member # 316
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
If you think magic oil will help you, you also probably believe that there is a substantial difference between Pepsi & Coke.
I use Mobile 1 5w30 and take advantage of the benefits of changing oil every 6,000 miles in my supercharged car. I also believe in the tooth fairy and santa claus. ![[Razz]](tongue.gif) ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
Posts: 837 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Jun 2001
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
Modile 1 is good stuff compared to just about everything out there. I've always used it in my non power-adder cars & changed it every 3000 miles. Always used good filters too. (Not FRAM!)
That being said, aside from breaking in the motor, I use Amsoil in my Cobra. Changed every 6 months (~1-2K miles). Amsoil is also very resistant to foaming & therefore drains faster from the turbos.
The contaminants in a motor (mainly fuel) will break down the oil after a certain amount of time...even just sitting there in the oil pan. Even if you don't put many miles on the motor it's a good idea to change the oil every 6 months.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
Hey, as long as you don't believe in the Easter Bunny hiding colored eggs in your back yard once a year, we're cool ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Lets face it... NONE of our cars will EVER live longer or die sooner because of the oil we ran in them. We've all met 100+, 200+, 300+, 500+ local stangers in our hobby. How many of them who had a motor go out on them as a result of bearing and ring wear due to 99 cent per quart oil? Zero. Lets face it, our mustangs motor's really only die from the following reasons:
-detonation from too much timing
-detonation from lack of a fuel system
-going lean
-did I mention detonation?
-running the motor with out enough oil
-overheating the motor
-did I mention detonation?
-internal failure (valve drops, rod kicks, crank breaks, block cracks ect)
You'll never ever never ever ever hear a guy around us say "Man, I just blew my motor by running cheapy oil in it, my motor would be alive today if I spent $4-7 a quart for my oil".
[ December 26, 2002, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
Lets face it... NONE of our cars will EVER live longer or die sooner because of the oil we ran in them. We've all met 100+, 200+, 300+, 500+ local stangers in our hobby. How many of them who had a motor go out on them as a result of bearing and ring wear due to 99 cent per quart oil? Zero. Lets face it, our stangs motors really die from the following reasons:
-detonation from too much timing
-detonation from lack of a fuel system
-going lean
-did I mention detonation?
-running the motor with out enough oil
-overheating the motor
-did I mention detonation?
-internal failure (valve drops, rod kicks, crank breaks, block cracks ect)
Damn straight!
The main thing is to change the oil/filter regularly.
Hell, 60% of the wear on the motor is at startup & the 10-15 seconds or so it takes for the oil pressure to build up.
Boy would I like an electric oil pump...
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
|
|
rr_mustang
¯
Member # 888
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
you also probably believe that there is a substantial difference between Pepsi & Coke.
Pepsi is the choice of a new generation.
--------------------
Dart 408 w/ AFR 205's
Posts: 473 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Feb 2002
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
thickness, or viscosity. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow.
An oil with too low a viscosity can lose strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and at high rpm. Racers use synthetics for a reason, the same reason why I use a synthetic blend with my supercharger. Synthetics have a superior high temperature resistance, high strength, very low tendency to form deposits, and low temperature flow. As far as detonation, oils also have a flash point, which is the point at which oil gives off vapors that can be ignited and detonated with a flame held over the oil. If this is allowed to happen, oil can thin and break down, causing wear and tear. This in itself can raise heat substantialy, allowing cracking or even bubbling.
Regular oils also have more of a tendecny to break down leaving residues or deposits, which lower the flash point, and alone can harm parts in the engine over time. Synthetics have a zero weight, higher flash point, and leave far less deposits and residues.
Now a stock engine probably won't be affected by some of these things, but better to use the right oil, especially when you start pushing boost or nitrous, better safe than sorry, anthing can happen with the right chain of events in that engine. ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
Come on, oil has to matter????? ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
I hate to say it, but your supercharged/nitroused/turbo car will almost always die from.... you guessed it: detonation. No magical oil in the world can change this fact
Now if expensive oil makes you feel more emotionaly secure about your engine and driveline's longevity...then that's another story all together
[ December 27, 2002, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
hold on..
[ December 27, 2002, 02:26 PM: Message edited by: CustomFastbackCA ]
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
ok found the link, go to http://www.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question164.htm&url=http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html , read THE DATA: section and the four paragraphs above it to understang what the symbols mean (ie. VI , Pour point, etc...) .
Sawson, you can't say that all of this doesn't mean something. These are studied scientific facts for a reason. Oil does matter, maybe not for you Mustang or under normal everyday conditions, but if you say 5w-30 is the same as Synthetic you are just wrong, whether or not it give me horsepower or not, synthetic is not regular oil. Are you saying thinner oil is not easier for the crank to move through? Deposits are not bad? High stress engines should be treated with the same oil as a stock V-6? I think conditions should define what oil to use and use the right oil.
[ December 27, 2002, 02:58 PM: Message edited by: CustomFastbackCA ]
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
Now if expensive oil makes you feel more emotionaly secure about your engine and driveline's longevity...then that's another story all together
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
You'll never ever never ever ever hear a guy around us say "Man, I just blew my motor by running cheapy oil in it, my motor would be alive today if I spent $4-7 a quart for my oil".
Make sure you come back and let us know what your motor dies from and what you could have done to prevented it
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
So yes Chuck AMSOIL is better if you agree with science, whether or not it would blow up your engine or not. ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
chosen1
¯
Member # 1906
|
posted
I want one of these too!
Accumulator
--------------------
1967 Fastback. Should go 10's -but doesn't
1993 Cobra
2003 Suzuki SVS
1966 Coupe -For Sale
Posts: 2205 | Registered: Sep 2002
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by CustomFastbackCA:
So yes Chuck AMSOIL is better if you agree with science, whether or not it would blow up your engine or not.
Your "science" prevents Americans from dying from food poisoning(cheap oil) when most Americans die from heart disease(detonation). Personally, I'll take my chances of surviving food poisoning and devote my efforts towards preventing heart disease. I can't speak for other people though
[ December 27, 2002, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by 2000BlackGT:
Is there any brand better than the other?
Simply letting Chuck know what is the better oil and answering his question.
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
|
posted
I don't think Sawson was debating that oil is oil is oil.....
I think he's simply stating that synthetics are a waste of money.
Amsoil is the best available. I use it & will continue to throw my money away on the stuff.
I like the properties of the stuff. The oil filters are some of the best I've found as well. Comparable only to Mobile one. Both run $10 each.
--------------------
www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
Ya I know what Sawson was saying, just don't like it.
"In 1996, in a race at Sears Point, the team got graphic confirmation that synthetic oil was the right choice. During this race, the oil cooler got plugged and at lap 20 the oil temperature rose to 315 degrees F. At that temperature, mineral-based oil will fail, and thus the engine will fail. However, since synthetic oil was being used, this engine completed the entire race. The engine was down on power, but when it was torn down there was no visible evidence of engine wear due to overheated oil. 'The survival of this engine with the oil temperatures at 315 degrees confirmed to us that synthetic oil is the way to go,' said Santanicola."
Fact 2: "Airplanes now function only on synthetic as regular oil breakes down cuasing severe engine wear within minutes"
Fact 3: from two sources I found that synthetic lowers engine temperature by 10 to 30 degrees depending on the application, though I have not proved this myself.
Fact 4: Synthetics increase fuel economy 2%-5%.
Fact 5: F1, Nascar, Dragsters, pro-street, super-street, european touring class, all use synthetics...not coincidental.
Still looking for information, but for high performance, synthetic is better, don't use your car as example again because it is not high performance ![[Smile]](smile.gif) . Am I getting closer?
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
Stimson
_
Member # 51
|
posted
Hey, if I (or anyone else on this board) drove a F1, Air Plane, Nascar, or Dragster...believe me, I (we?) wouldn't buy my(our?) oil from Pep Boys
I never said synthetics don't do jack squat... I said they don't do jack squat in the cars that and and I and everyone else here drives (street cars). Like I said before...I won't slap anyone's wrist for pouring that stuff in, but I will roll my eyes if they tell me their engine is going to last longer or any other internet info-merical BS.
Admit it, I bet you use to watch all the PRO-LONG info-mercials and even bought some bottles of the stuff before their scam was revealed j/k
At the end, I think my food poisoning vs heart disease analogy above explains my position best.
PS-Want to know whats my "secret" for making my 302 last? I don't rev it past 3K RPM until the engine has reached operating temp. I don't hold it steady at an RPM above 3K RPM for any period of time and I don't rev the piss out of thinking I have more RPM's up there when my dyno graph shows I'm through making HP around 5200 RPM.
[ December 31, 2002, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
| :
|
|
BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com
Moderator
Member # 655
|
posted
Chuck, go with some "Castrol" synthetic. Thats what me and John Force use in our Mustangs.
Honestly any synthetic oil is worth it.....I would try 10w30...
How many of you guy's knew that the "W" in 10w30 20W50 ETC stands for Winter???..
[ December 31, 2002, 02:07 AM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
--------------------
-SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
what about fuel economy and temperature drop? temperature drop is most welcome with the supercharged mustang people. And even though 2%-5% isn't shit, it is still something I guess. Also it has been proven that synthetic has better cold starts than regular because it has a much lower pour point, any worth in that? Now I am not saying it will hurt not to have synthetic, but won't it help to have it?
[ December 31, 2002, 01:51 PM: Message edited by: CustomFastbackCA ]
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
CustomFastbackCA
¯
Member # 1369
|
posted
Also, would guys who autocross around here be considered racers, their engines have to be operating at real high heat, you don't think they need synthetic or for that matter it doesn't make a difference? Granted synthetic won't make much of a difference for you...common sense shows you baby your car, probably hardly abuse it, but what about someone like me who has a 10lb blower plus mods on my 96' Saleen and beats the shit out of it, cruise 95mph on the freeway all day long, and rev to 6200 rpms without blinking every chance I get. I can literally feel the heat burning my feet at times it gets so hot. I am not going to take my chances on an oil that could break down under enough heat. Am I wrong?
--------------------
www.CustomFastbackCA.com
1995 Dinan M3 Avus Blue Metallic
1967 GT Mustang Fastback (Eleanor)
Ask questions if you have'em, anyone who thinks they're too cool, know's it all, or doesn't want to look stupid has more problems than you.
Posts: 346 | From: Santa Clara | Registered: Jun 2002
| :
|
|
|
Email this post to someone!
Printer friendly view of this Ford topic
