Author
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Topic: Please Help: Rounded off Coolant drain plug in the block PIC
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
Guys, I need some ideas here.
I managed to round off the allen head coolant plug in my block. I used a 1/4" Allen head socket, which is the right size as far as I know. It fit very snug, but the inner part of the plug stripped so easily, you'd think it was made of play dough.
The 6 sided plug became one big circle within the plug. It no longer has any sides.
Plan B... I tried to JB weld the 1/4" Allen socket into the plug. I let it dry for 24 hrs and applied some torque. Failed miserably.
I have no clue what to do now. How do I get this thing out without pulling the motor? Does anyone have any ideas? Please help. I've been screwing with this thing so much I am afraid to just leave it in there. I have an aftermarket K-member, so there is plenty of room to maneuver.
And yes the freeze plug in the pic is leaking... that was my whole motivation behind trying to drain the coolant via that stripped plug.
I was thinking about actually spot welding the allen head socket to the plug, but thought I'd consult everyone before trying to find a welder
Thanks, Luke

-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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BOTIH8R
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Member # 7295
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posted
try vise grips or an easyout first
Posts: 1143 | From: sacramento | Registered: Dec 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
can you get a hammer and a chisel in there?
looks like you may have enough room.
put a little heat on it if you can.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
second thought maybe you can beat an 8mm allen into it and then use vise grips on the side of it while giving it a go with the 8mm.
If you can get an 8mm beat into it you can also use an impact screw driver but with an 8mm bit.
You know the ones you slap on the back and they turn while you do that.
Guys used to use them on the phillips head bolts on old honda motorcycle cases.
harbor freight sells them.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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phil a
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Member # 6951
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posted
why don't you drill through it and pound in an easy-out? you will only get minimal shavings in the block if you are careful in your drilling, which will come out easily once it is flushed.
good luck.
Posts: 1261 | From: toledo oh | Registered: Jul 2006
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
Do you have a torx bit of roughly the same size? Pound it in there nice and tight and see if you can twist the plug out. I've done that a couple times with rounded out allen heads...
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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88DroptopGT
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Member # 2535
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posted
Spray some penetrant then get some vice grips on there and hit it with a hammer to shock it loose..
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
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SPEC -Fabrication
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Member # 4980
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Just drill it out and use a easy out! why bother with anything else? Dont fight it with Vise grips If you dont feel comfortable doing it bring it over. ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
-------------------- 1999 Saleen#124 1997 Tahoe 2006 ZX636R CWS certified welder
Posts: 1321 | From: drinkin BEER! | Registered: Oct 2004
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
thanks for the suggestions guys
what is "easyout"
never heard of it
Oh, and there is no way in hell I can drill due to not having enough room to work.
I have maybe 2 inches before the header going straight out from the plug...
Any other ideas?
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
an easy out is basically a reverse threaded drill bit.

I've used them before, MAKE SURE YOU DONT BREAK THE EASYOUT!!
it can't be drilled!
I would personally just drill that plug out, that should break the tension on it, letting you get a pair of vice grips to turn it.
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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DRIVINFST
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Member # 2430
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Drill + Easyout. If the header is in the way, take it out.
Posts: 555 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: Feb 2003
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
so you drill a hole, hammer the eay out in, and the turn counter-clockwise?
Is that how the easy out works?
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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TRIXSNK
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Member # 2844
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posted
I believe drill the hole, turn the easy out clockwise to get it into the hole some, then counter clockwise to remove both together.
The reverse threads should dig in when you turn counter clockwise.
Sorry been a little while since i used one ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
-------------------- 9 Sec EVO 9 is GONE!
New project in the works.......
Posts: 3740 | From: Bay Area | Registered: May 2003
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
if you never used an easy out i'd sujest gettin that welder with that 8 mil allen pounded in an tackin it good u got plenty of room. it well come right out with no mess an no chances of screwin anything else up unless u miss an weld the block.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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Luke87GT
Lay'n more stripes than Caltrans
Member # 21
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Duncan Motors: if you never used an easy out i'd sujest gettin that welder with that 8 mil allen pounded in an tackin it good u got plenty of room. it well come right out with no mess an no chances of screwin anything else up unless u miss an weld the block.
know any welders that can make a houser call, lol
car is in pieces in stands
-------------------- Stangless
Posts: 7802 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2000
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
Luke, if you CANNOT get it and can tow it I can have it removed at my shop.
BUT, if you can do it there, take a torch and heat up that area to break down the lock tite/sealer they use at the factory. Not sure if you can grab it at all on the inside, if not, next time you know to heat it up first ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
-------------------- R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
Or if you have a dremel, slot the plug like a flat head screw and then use a chisel in the slot and a hammer to break the thing loose...
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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hidnn.o.s.
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Member # 1219
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posted
quote: Originally posted by AJBlackGT: Or if you have a dremel, slot the plug like a flat head screw and then use a chisel in the slot and a hammer to break the thing loose...
HEAT UP THE BLOCK!!!!
-------------------- R.I.P. Willie G. You are missed on this forum
Posts: 15950 | Registered: Apr 2002
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street_illegal_stang
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Member # 1554
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posted
Get a punch and hit all 6 points,then hammer on your socket..heat up the area around the plug only...longer the better. If you can get a impact in there using swivels & extentions with 25 degree angles..should work. otherwise you need the welder.
Posts: 1276 | From: Long Beach C.A | Registered: Jul 2002
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
you can always just leave it be.
I doubt it will leak if you cant even budge it.
drain your coolant from the freeze plug once you hammer it out.
-------------------- .........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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mnstruc
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Member # 5652
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posted
pull the header and everything else out of your way and drill the thing out and use an easy out. Otherwise you will spend hours fighting with it. I would also apply some heat to that area prior to turning the easy out. Welding a hex key is only going to complicate things in my opinion, though that will get some heat in there..................
-------------------- 63 Fairlane 500 65 GT-1 Mustang Race Car 67 Mustang A code Coupe 68 Ranchero GT 72 Bronco Sport 03 Mustang GT 07 F-350 4x4 Dually Diesel
Posts: 95 | From: Sunnyvale, CA | Registered: May 2005
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RED@7kVERT *8850GT*
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Member # 5909
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posted
um.
some of these suggestions are a little out there...a good pair of vise grips...get it on there as tight as you can....and turn it slowly...should back right out.... i would think....
-------------------- 2016 Mustang GT PP- Don't care lol _ _____________ _ Sold:02 Z06-11.0 @ 132 Sold:05 CTS-V-13.1 @ 114 Sold:01 Cobra Vert-12.0 @ 119
Posts: 2432 | From: -916- | Registered: Aug 2005
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HaulinAss Motorsports
Its a STREETRaceCar!
Member # 541
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posted
quote: Originally posted by court: you can always just leave it be.
I doubt it will leak if you cant even budge it.
drain your coolant from the freeze plug once you hammer it out.
Yes exactly.Leave it alone and change the freezeplugs out.It isnt going to leak and really there is no reason for you to have to drain the water from there.
Posts: 22509 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2001
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HaulinAss Motorsports
Its a STREETRaceCar!
Member # 541
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 95VERT306 '8850GT': um.
some of these suggestions are a little out there...a good pair of vise grips...get it on there as tight as you can....and turn it slowly...should back right out.... i would think....
not going to happen,not enough room and material showing to do so.
Posts: 22509 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2001
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