This is topic Please Help: Rounded off Coolant drain plug in the block PIC in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://californiafords.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=015962

---

Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on :
 
Guys, I need some ideas here.

I managed to round off the allen head coolant plug in my block. I used a 1/4" Allen head socket, which is the right size as far as I know. It fit very snug, but the inner part of the plug stripped so easily, you'd think it was made of play dough.

The 6 sided plug became one big circle within the plug. It no longer has any sides.

Plan B... I tried to JB weld the 1/4" Allen socket into the plug. I let it dry for 24 hrs and applied some torque. Failed miserably.

I have no clue what to do now. How do I get this thing out without pulling the motor? Does anyone have any ideas? Please help. I've been screwing with this thing so much I am afraid to just leave it in there. I have an aftermarket K-member, so there is plenty of room to maneuver.

And yes the freeze plug in the pic is leaking... that was my whole motivation behind trying to drain the coolant via that stripped plug.

I was thinking about actually spot welding the allen head socket to the plug, but thought I'd consult everyone before trying to find a welder

Thanks,
Luke


 

---

Posted by 64valves(BOTIH8R)*pbr* (Member # 7295) on :
 
try vise grips or an easyout first
 

---

Posted by court (Member # 6700) on :
 
can you get a hammer and a chisel in there?

looks like you may have enough room.

put a little heat on it if you can.
 

---

Posted by court (Member # 6700) on :
 
second thought maybe you can beat an 8mm allen into it and then use vise grips on the side of it while giving it a go with the 8mm.

If you can get an 8mm beat into it you can also use an impact screw driver but with an 8mm bit.

You know the ones you slap on the back and they turn while you do that.

Guys used to use them on the phillips head bolts on old honda motorcycle cases.

harbor freight sells them.
 

---

Posted by phil a (Member # 6951) on :
 
why don't you drill through it and pound in an easy-out? you will only get minimal shavings in the block if you are careful in your drilling, which will come out easily once it is flushed.

good luck.
 

---

Posted by AJBlackGT (Member # 3936) on :
 
Do you have a torx bit of roughly the same size?
Pound it in there nice and tight and see if you can twist the plug out. I've done that a couple times with rounded out allen heads...
 

---

Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
Spray some penetrant then get some vice grips on there and hit it with a hammer to shock it loose..
 

---

Posted by SPEC -Fabrication (Member # 4980) on :
 
Just drill it out and use a easy out! why bother with anything else? Dont fight it with Vise grips If you dont feel comfortable doing it bring it over.
 

---

Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on :
 
thanks for the suggestions guys

what is "easyout"

never heard of it

Oh, and there is no way in hell I can drill due to not having enough room to work.

I have maybe 2 inches before the header going straight out from the plug...

Any other ideas?
 

---

Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
an easy out is basically a reverse threaded drill bit.




I've used them before, MAKE SURE YOU DONT BREAK THE EASYOUT!!

it can't be drilled!

I would personally just drill that plug out, that should break the tension on it, letting you get a pair of vice grips to turn it.
 

---

Posted by DRIVINFST (Member # 2430) on :
 
Drill + Easyout. If the header is in the way, take it out.
 

---

Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on :
 
so you drill a hole, hammer the eay out in, and the turn counter-clockwise?

Is that how the easy out works?
 

---

Posted by TRIXSNK (Member # 2844) on :
 
I believe drill the hole, turn the easy out clockwise to get it into the hole some, then counter clockwise to remove both together.

The reverse threads should dig in when you turn counter clockwise.

Sorry been a little while since i used one
 

---

Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
if you never used an easy out i'd sujest gettin that welder with that 8 mil allen pounded in an tackin it good u got plenty of room. it well come right out with no mess an no chances of screwin anything else up unless u miss an weld the block.
 

---

Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on :
 

quote:

---

Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
if you never used an easy out i'd sujest gettin that welder with that 8 mil allen pounded in an tackin it good u got plenty of room. it well come right out with no mess an no chances of screwin anything else up unless u miss an weld the block.

---

know any welders that can make a houser call, lol

car is in pieces in stands
 

---

Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
maybe virge .
 

---

Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on :
 
Luke, if you CANNOT get it and can tow it I can have it removed at my shop.

BUT, if you can do it there, take a torch and heat up that area to break down the lock tite/sealer they use at the factory. Not sure if you can grab it at all on the inside, if not, next time you know to heat it up first
 

---

Posted by AJBlackGT (Member # 3936) on :
 
Or if you have a dremel, slot the plug like a flat head screw and then use a chisel in the slot and a hammer to break the thing loose...
 

---

Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on :
 

quote:

---

Originally posted by AJBlackGT:
Or if you have a dremel, slot the plug like a flat head screw and then use a chisel in the slot and a hammer to break the thing loose...

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by court:
you can always just leave it be.

I doubt it will leak if you cant even budge it.

drain your coolant from the freeze plug once you hammer it out.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by 95VERT306 '8850GT':
um.

some of these suggestions are a little out there...a good pair of vise grips...get it on there as tight as you can....and turn it slowly...should back right out.... i would think....

---