Author
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Topic: having issues bleeding my brakes...
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
1987 5.0 booster 1995 GT Master cylinder Matt90GT's 3-2 port conversion kit Gutted stock prop valve, w/ FMS solid plug SSBC adj. prop valve installed at the passenger coupler 1991 crown vic police 73mm steel piston front calipers 1988 turbocoupe rearend from a 5spd car (3.55's, vented discs) stock foxbody rearend hardline, using adapters at the caliper flex lines russel stainless braided brake lines up front, and from rear mainline to rearend hardline - rubber at the rear caliper flex lines (do they make a kit for those???)
the pedal goes to the floor after bleeding through 2 quarts + 4 small bottles (pints?) of dot3 brake fluid using a motive PRESSURE BLEEDER. I have the rear brake bias set to full increase (wide open) on my adj prop valve.
what am I missing here the fluid is coming out clear and clean with no air bubbles, I'm bleeding at 15psi and even jumped into the car and pumped the brake pedal while bleeding out each rear caliper. Initially a ton of air came out of the rears and a little out of the fronts, but now just clean clear fluid.
should I take the calipers off and move them around or something? Maybe air is getting stuck in them somewhere?
with the engine off I can pump the pedal and it will firm up and feel perfect, but start the engine and it just goes to the floor and pumping doesn't do anything.
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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NO MANRZ
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Member # 566
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posted
Are you letting the brake fluid level get too low in the resevoir as you're bleeding?
-------------------- Bring It . . .
Posts: 1938 | Registered: Nov 2001
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88DroptopGT
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Member # 2535
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posted
Perhaps your brake Master Cylinder just took a dump.
You can make your own hardline out of SS line and flare/AN fittings, I just made my own a while ago.
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
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Hungry Hippo
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Member # 537
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posted
sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder. crack open each line that connects to it like you are bleeding the brakes
-------------------- 05 S4 Avant(wagon) 09 C6 H/C/I
Posts: 2959 | From: east bay | Registered: Nov 2001
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Hungry Hippo: sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder. crack open each line that connects to it like you are bleeding the brakes
yeah I did that.
and no manrz: I dont think its possible to let the fluid level get to low with a pressure bleeder, its forcing fluid into it at 15psi
88droptop: the m/c is brand new, not a remanu.
its just acting like there is air in the lines but the last quart of fluid I bleed through it came out looking brand new with zero bubbles from every wheel...
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Hungry Hippo
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Member # 537
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posted
are the bleeder valves on top of the caliper? maybe you have them on the wrong sides? i did that once
-------------------- 05 S4 Avant(wagon) 09 C6 H/C/I
Posts: 2959 | From: east bay | Registered: Nov 2001
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
yeah they're on the top and facing the rear of the car, I was worried about that too [ January 13, 2006, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: blind ]
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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Stupid quesion... are you bleeding the rears 1st then the fronts?
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
Do you have teflon tape or paste on the threads of the bleeder valves? I always have problems when bleeding the brakes if the bleeder valves are not sealed because air gets back in past the threads. Try sealing the bleeder threads...
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote: Originally posted by AJBlackGT: Do you have teflon tape or paste on the threads of the bleeder valves? I always have problems when bleeding the brakes if the bleeder valves are not sealed because air gets back in past the threads. Try sealing the bleeder threads...
thanks I'll try that when I pull the calipers all off tomorrow.
92stanglx, yes. RR, LR, RF, LF in that order, with my adj prop valve adjusted to full rear bias.
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
I had the front calipers mounted on the wrong side
brakes work great now, took about 5 minutes to bleed the brakes after swapping them, I love my pressure bleeder
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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Camaro Kid Z/28
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Member # 3100
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quote: Originally posted by blind: I had the front calipers mounted on the wrong side
brakes work great now, took about 5 minutes to bleed the brakes after swapping them, I love my pressure bleeder
crackhead!
-------------------- 1973 Camaro Z/28(clone) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2649130 "4-eyes forever essay!"
Posts: 6429 | From: 408 | Registered: Jul 2003
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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I thought teflon tape on brake line threads was a BIIIIG no-no
-------------------- 1984 Ford Tempo AOD--- RIP
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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quote: Originally posted by JoeT: I thought teflon tape on brake line threads was a BIIIIG no-no
its only on the bleeder valves and its teflon paste
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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