T O P I C R E V I E W
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
What type of upper and lower control arms do you guys recomend for a fox body?
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
For drag racing? I'm a big fan of stock suspension + slicks + gears
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
I have gears and slicks. I pulled a 1.81 60 ft with that and ran a 98 mph trap. The car should pull a much lower 60 ft now that its faster. I want more though. I cant go driving around town on my slicks, and without them, I might as well skip 1st and 2nd gear cause I have no traction.
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
On street tires, stiffer control arms and a stiffer suspension will only "hit" the tires harder on the launch and cause even more spin.
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
Then what can I do for traction?
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
I've seen locals do well with the Eibach drag spring kit and nitto's on the street.
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
Anyone else have any input?
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66 AC COBRA
Member # 904
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posted
quote: Originally posted by st5150: On street tires, stiffer control arms and a stiffer suspension will only "hit" the tires harder on the launch and cause even more spin.
the concept sounds good but i have to disagree i did control arms on a basically stock 97 gt stock it could spin the tires alright, but not great (its an auto) after i put steeda lower control arms on it, it would barely scratch a tire, the only change was the lower arms just my .02
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st5150
Member # 51
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posted
I've seen exact opposite results on a 5 speed car with a reasonably "grippy" clutch.
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castor
Member # 2765
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posted
I've those "factory five" ones that they advertise in 5.0 mag. i'm not sure how well they work, but they were damn cheap! upper and lowers for 150!!!
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season'd 88
Member # 169
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posted
changing out the stock uppers on a street car is a bad idea. as far as the lowers, i replaced mine with a set of global west tbf whatevers. they are very stout and have served me well over the years. mega bite jrs work very well for street strip duty.
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
whats the difference between the megabite jr's and Sr's???? Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea? [ May 28, 2003, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: 91 5.0 ]
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season'd 88
Member # 169
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: whats the difference between the megabite jr's and Sr's???? Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea?
i had a set or the jrs and they hooked really good but hung up at the drive thru car wash so i pitched em. i think the sr. uses a spherical bearing where as the jr uses a somewhat more compliant hard plastic type bushing. the hard bushings in most after mrkt UPPERS causes bind in the suspension while taking a corner at speed and can pitch the car around on you. some call this 'snap over steer'. the guys over at corner- carvers can do a much better job of explaining this. All of this means squat if you dont have the tires for the job.
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1990GT50
Member # 2119
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: I cant go driving around town on my slicks
why not, i do
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91sleeper
Member # 779
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: Why is changing the UCA's a bad idea?
I think its ok to change the uppers and lowers as long as the uppers are rubber and not polyurethane. If both upper and lower bushings are polyurethane they will bind like mentioned above.
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
What kind of driving do you do????.........
If you like to drag race then more than corner carve then I would recommend a set of lower control arms that have sperical bearings at BOTH ends...Sperical bearings reduce axle wind up compared to polyurethane bushings and also keep the correct articulation of the rear suspension...
For upper control arms I suggest going with either the FMS HD uppers or (if your into drag racing) I would recommend some adjustable uppers with sperical bearings...Sperical bearings will help the rear axle move more freely without bushing bind!..The reason you should get "adjustable" uppers is so you can adjust your pinion angle for optimum traction...
Its been said before, but traction is only as good as the tires!..
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
im only into drag racing.
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mustanggt5091
Member # 444
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posted
I would say the eibach drag luanch kit and a set of Mega Bite Jr.s, you can get spherical bushings for the Jr.s also!
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rokcrln
Member # 2536
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posted
Don't know about on the track but on the street I just installed a full M&M box kit plus the torque arm set up and it can bearly burn off now. Before it would flip flop side to side and lite up forever. With the new location of the torque arm it adds tons of traction. When dropping the clutch the rear pinion wants to twist up and with the T-arm it wont let the pinion do this and what happens instead is when it tries to lift it has to lift the car first and this only adds more weight to the rear tires. Before when you dumped the clutch the rear would squat abit and lift the fron some and now it feals like you are being pushed from behind straite forward if that makes sence. No squat just strait a head. [ May 29, 2003, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: rokcrln ]
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Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger
Member # 476
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: Then what can I do for traction?
ET STREETS
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KCmustangboy
Member # 1927
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger: quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: Then what can I do for traction?
ET STREETS
well said
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Quick 88LX
Member # 1950
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posted
quote: Originally posted by KCmustangboy: quote: Originally posted by Blown Mystic with a POS 90 ranger: quote: Originally posted by 91 5.0: Then what can I do for traction?
ET STREETS
well said
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91 5.0
Member # 1527
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posted
Let me clarify... Besides slicks or ET streets, what can I do for traction?
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92coupe
Member # 1957
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posted
quote: Originally posted by rokcrln: No squat just strait a head.
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