T O P I C R E V I E W
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COPFITY
Member # 1845
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posted
I WANNA TUB MY 85 COUPE TO RUN FATTER SLICKS? ANYONE KNOW ANYONE?
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GR40Coupe
Member # 698
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posted
start cutting.
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jayl
Member # 185
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posted
i fit a 28x10.5 slick on my 87 GT w/ only minor rubbing...... I dont know how much motor you got in there, but thats a lot of tire ......and LX's always seem to have way more room.
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1990GT50
Member # 2119
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posted
use a plasma cutter or a sawzall to cut the old wheel wells out. leave like a cm. or two on the edge so you have something to hooh the tubs onto.after its cut uot, weld the new ones in and make sure everything is strong and drive it. Im not sure on how to weld the tubs in but i dont think you would want to weld the whole thing, just like 1in. sections so you dont warp the metal
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rokcrln
Member # 2536
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posted
I have done this in the past and am thinking about doing my 91 GT but if I remember right from looking under it the springs would be the limiting factor as to how wide you could go. I think it would only get about an inch or so from doing a tub with stock location springs. Now if you went coil over shocks in back it might be worth doing a tub. But one inch is going to cost a bit of money and not get you that much results out of it.
But you asked hoe to do it. This is what I have done (64 and 67 novas) I use plasma cutters but thisa is what I did. Cut the center of the stock tub from front to back abd then figure out how much room you have between the iner tub wall and the unibody structure. This will tell you how far you can go with out major work. Let say it is 2", now you go cut the iner tub at this point and slide it in and it will rest on top of the floor over the unibody "frame". You now have a 2" gap in the center of the tub that can be filled with a 3" strip of sheet metal. You will want to weld everything up completly but not in one pass. Do several 3/4" welds jumpimg around not to over heat the metal. Once it is all welded up prime using a good product I like POR15 for non UV areas and then under cote the inside of the wheel well. Yes their are things left out of how you would do it but this should give you a good idea for starters.
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COPFITY
Member # 1845
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posted
yea the stock location springs would get in the way... let's say i went with a coil over kit... would the lower control arms limit my rooms as well?
BTW... I'm going to be running a 460 big block and c6.
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COPFITY
Member # 1845
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posted
yea the stock location springs would get in the way... let's say i went with a coil over kit... would the lower control arms limit my rooms as well?
BTW... I'm going to be running a 460 big block and c6.
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O1sscamaroguy
Member # 2775
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posted
If your serious about tubbing your 5.0 I've got 63 nova fully tubbed fits 33x18.5 in the back and the rocker panels are 6 inches off the ground its slammed with a four link and coil overs. I did about 75% of the work my self. There are plenty of shops around that sell parts, kits and do labor. This is a very time intencive project and costs about 7000 - 9000 dollars in the end. There are a lot of things to know when doing this so dont try this in your garage with no advise ask around get advise. heres a few shops.
*Art Morrison - back East frames kit and suspension, this is where I went good prices *Chris Alston Chassis Works - out of SAC frames and suspension *Fuller Fabrication - Livermore interior paneling *Freitas Fabricatoin - San Leandro welding, cutting, frame building, roll cages -- top notch shit.
good luck - my next project is going to be a LX notchback tubbed alky injected big block
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MINGRYGT
Member # 2439
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posted
COPFITY... MAN THE ONLY GUY TO CALL IS ZIMMERMAN, HE TUBS. PM ME IF YOU WANT HIS #.
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RiddlerGT
Member # 113
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posted
I vote for fuller fabrications seent he work great quality.
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rokcrln
Member # 2536
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posted
Well first question is why do you want it tubbed? Is it for drag, if so than a 4link is the way to go. If it is for the street and you still want to handle corners than a 4link is the last place you want to go. How much wider are you looking for?
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