T O P I C R E V I E W
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
I was happy to come home today and find that UPS had dropped off my new part. Yet the dick head that sent it to me failed to include the conversion kit for it. Anyone know where I can get one or what is needed to do the upgrade. I want it as clean and professional as possible. NO hack job. Also I'm having a hard time finding step by step instructions online on how to do it right.
pick below http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b376bc88e481
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AcesWild85
Member # 2616
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posted
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index.shtml
You're welcome
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88gt
Member # 579
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posted
Here's what I used http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/index.htm
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
sweet I'm ready for the install...I just need to know what kind of fuse to get for the 4 gauge wire I'm buying. and where is the best place to implement the fuse?
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
In the link 88GT gave, it shows no 4-gauge wire to the battery side of the starter relay compared to the other link...
88GT~Did you use a 4 gauge wire to your starter relay?...Is it needed??...
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88gt
Member # 579
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Black94 5.0: In the link 88GT gave, it shows no 4-gauge wire to the battery side of the starter relay compared to the other link...
88GT~Did you use a 4 gauge wire to your starter relay?...Is it needed??...
Nope, we didn't use it, you don't need it. I followed Byron's directions just as he wrote them.
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
so the stock wire is okay? what about a fuse? sorry for the dumb questions
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
ttt
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
wish I could help, I think I bought my 3G from the same joker as you, he sells them in different colors and is located in FL.
shipped it UPS ground, wanted $20 for shipping and I ordered it a full week ago and tracking says it wont be here until the 22nd, lmfao...
oh well, I get to live with the squeel of a dying alternator until that gets here
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88gt
Member # 579
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posted
The stock wires are fine. I think the only time you need to upgrade is when you are running a crazy stereo, and I ran a pretty big system for about six months with no problems. I'd say you're fine using all the stock wire, I know a few other guys that have as well. Just follow Byron's instructions and you'll be fine.
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 88gt: The stock wires are fine. I think the only time you need to upgrade is when you are running a crazy stereo, and I ran a pretty big system for about six months with no problems. I'd say you're fine using all the stock wire, I know a few other guys that have as well. Just follow Byron's instructions and you'll be fine.
Cool thanks...I'll give it a shot. I do have pullies but my stereo is nothing to write home about. I think its like 160-180 watts LMAO. I didn't have time this weekend to do the install. wife had me do spring cleaning in the garage. Told me to get rid of and I quote "All this shit laying around". Little does she know over half the "shit" I threw out was hers.
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9lbpony
Member # 3510
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posted
Stock wiring is fine? Hmm - I could have sworn people used to warn that the charging wire was a potential fire hazard as it wasn't designed to pass the potential 130A that the 3G creates. I'm 99% sure we upgraded the wiring when we did this swap on a friend's blown '93 Cobra.
It sure was a worthwhile upgrade though - his car was a nightmare to tune when the voltage would fluctuate between 12.5-14.4 volts while driving. The injector offsets vs. voltage would result in crappy long term fuel trims. The alternator upgrade resulted in huge drivability improvements for him.
Oh wait, do you mean "stock" as in 1992 GT wiring or "stock" as it "it came with the 3G alternator and is effectively what came stock on the 94-95 mustangs"?
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 9lbpony: Stock wiring is fine? Hmm - I could have sworn people used to warn that the charging wire was a potential fire hazard as it wasn't designed to pass the potential 130A that the 3G creates. I'm 99% sure we upgraded the wiring when we did this swap on a friend's blown '93 Cobra.
It sure was a worthwhile upgrade though - his car was a nightmare to tune when the voltage would fluctuate between 12.5-14.4 volts while driving. The injector offsets vs. voltage would result in crappy long term fuel trims. The alternator upgrade resulted in huge drivability improvements for him.
Oh wait, do you mean "stock" as in 1992 GT wiring or "stock" as it "it came with the 3G alternator and is effectively what came stock on the 94-95 mustangs"?
How did you upgrade the wiring?...Did you use a fuse and a 4G wire like the first link in this post?...
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9lbpony
Member # 3510
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posted
We did the 4-gauge to the starter and used a "big ass" circuit breaker. While not "critical" - I'm a big fan of overkill when it comes to power. For example, I run 0-gauge to my relocated battery. I'll never pass enough current to need more then 2-gauge but I like to know that I'm not losing any current to resistance.
In my friend's Cobra we were replacing a lot of the wiring at the same time so we went thicker on almost everything.
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 9lbpony: We did the 4-gauge to the starter and used a "big ass" circuit breaker. While not "critical" - I'm a big fan of overkill when it comes to power. For example, I run 0-gauge to my relocated battery. I'll never pass enough current to need more then 2-gauge but I like to know that I'm not losing any current to resistance.
In my friend's Cobra we were replacing a lot of the wiring at the same time so we went thicker on almost everything.
So I'm thinking I want to go the 4 gauge rout with this alternator...just to be safe. Where would I incorporate the fuse on this wire? Why type of fuse would you suggest for it?
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
I just did mine using this guide as reference (clear picture or wiring changes)
http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom3.html
IMO you dont need a fuse on the 4G wire, but if you feel you want one get an inline fuse like the ones used on a stereo install.
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
Okay well after 4 hours of installing this bitch I start the car and the amps are more than twice as LOW as they were before and the car wants to die!!!!!! My stock alt pushed more power than this peice of shit 3g upgrade? Why would it do this? I'm so fucking pissed of right now its not even funny. Black94 5.0 came over and assisted in the install. If you know him you KNOW this install was done on a profesional level. Could I have a bad alternator? What makes me so fuckin mad is that I cut and spliced the stock wires (as it calls for in the instructions. PLEASE HELP ME! I'm at a loss. Could the stock power wire not be enough for this and in turn not push enough power. Wouldn't it at least give me as much as the stock alt. Why would a 130amp alt give me less than stock!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I could stress my level of PISSED OFF_NESS!
p.s. it looks fuckin cool though,...DOH!
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
I'll come over when I get a chance and I'll take a look at it with my multimeter...I think it might be one of those cheap butt connectors you had...I'll bring my soldering iron too...
[ April 23, 2004, 12:57 AM: Message edited by: Black94 5.0 ]
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
make sure the crimps are done right!
I did mine with gold wire loops, proper guage size. Tin the wires you cut off the plug first, let it cool, stick em in the crimp of the loop, then take your iron and hold it at the top of the crimp and flow solder down into it, remove the iron and let it cool.
make sure you use at least a 40watt iron with a good sized tip or it wont be hot enough for the 10 guage wires to be tinned, and make sure its HOT before you start (let it heat for 5 minutes, at least).
fyi- I solder for a living
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Jdub07
Member # 2728
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Black94 5.0: I'll come over when I get a chance and I'll take a look at it with my multimeter...I think it might be one of those cheap butt connectors you had...I'll bring my soldering iron too...
I'm gonna pull it off tonight and take it to Kragen for a load test. I don't want to put anymore effort into this if the problem is the Aternator itself. If it tests good I'll buy some proper connectors,heatshrink and other nessesary items that I should have started with in the beginning.
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