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Just got convinced to swap in an ls1 motor
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by LXjames: [QB] Read and tell me what you think? Found this post while looking for info on mm kmember and long tubes. Posters name is hpbob. site is ls1tech.com hpbob1's , 03-31-2010 02:35 AM Why I went LS from a ford 302 or 351W in my fox As a former ford only guy I am going LSX 6.0 Lq4 into my 1985 ford mustang hatch because of the following: for 750.00 (used wrecking yard motor) I got 364 cubes, aluminum water pump, 15 degree aluminum heads 317's that flow like twisted wedge ford aftermarket heads with 210 intake runners 2.00 intake valves 75 exhaust, aluminum deep dish truck pan, factory windage tray, 6 bolt mains, a block that will never crack no matter how much boost I throw at it (these blocks have been to 1800hp), factory gun drilled crank reliable to 1200 hp, factory crank fired ignition system with way less friction and timing slop (just add the MSD 6010 box for 300.00 and I have a crank fired digtial 7 type setup with built in 2 step and rev limiter, boost retard etc, factory truck coils that have been well over 1000 hp on boosted engines and have spark output equivelant to a a MSD after market coil, I simply add a good cam, valve springs, ARP rod bolts, free flowing cool air and exhaust and I have well over 400hp and 400 ft lbs of torque naturally aspirated (add factory L92 heads at 399.00 each and its 550hp) naturally aspirated. I bolt on my 550.00 S400 75MM turbo, cheap air to air intercooler, pump gas with meth injection, 93 lb injectors, Mega squirt fuel controller, built power glide tranny and stick this combo into my 2500 lb drag car roller with 3.73 gears and I have at least 800 to 900 flywheel hp with mid 5's in the 1/8th, and high 8's in the quarter at 15 to 18 lbs of boost. After getting down tuning completely with the efi and MSD box, if I want to build this motor all I add are h beam forged rods and turbo forged pistons with aftermarket heads and I have a motor that will handle 1200 hp all day long. This puts me into low 5's in the 1/8th and low 8's in the quarter for a fraction of what it will cost me to build a ford 302 or 351W with a dart based block. The cost of the dart block alone builds my whole LQ4 short block which is designed to have much lower friction throughout the motor, no distributor with resultant drag and mechanical timing slop not to mention all the extra money aftermarket distributor & ignition components, dart block, 2 step box, would cost me etc. The LS motor is hands down WAY cheaper to build to go fast. Put it into the dirt cheap, aerodynamic, light with factory 4 link style drag friendly suspension, 8.8 stout light factory rear end, and rack & pinion front end fox body mustang and you have one hell of a cheap to build, wicked fast, awesome drag race car. So for all you Chevy only or Ford only entire car purists consider this. When you see a funny car drag race, John Force in his mustang, and a Chevy guy in his camaro drag racing, look under the flipped up fiber glass body and you find a Hemi aftermarket block motor, with a Lenco trans and dana rear end. Not a damn thing on either car is Ford or Chevy. But the entire crowd is into rooting for Ford vs Chevy for their favored side. Also look at all the Chevy guys with ford 9 inch rear ends, all the Mustang guys running power glides and turbo 400's etc. Real drag racers have been mixing and matching all the best parts and bodies and motors in drag racing since the sport began in the 1950's. Does anyone still not see the light??? [/QB][/QUOTE]
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