Just be careful. I really dont know where else to start
Ok Ill try to help the best I can.
Regardless of what some speed shop crackhead has told you or what some scummit racing online "tech" has told you if you havent bought a good fuel pump then just wait until you have bought one. Especially with a 93 motor.
I know that the bbk and holleys and other cheapy pumps dont perform that well under spiked line pressures but they will hold up better than a stock pump.
I like the GSS pumps myself. These can be had for a reasonable price and if you use the smaller one you dont USUALLY have to regulate it.
That is another thing if you dont have one and can afford it then go and pick yourself up a regulator for your fuel line.
Now you are using the dry kit, which I hate and it is from NOS and Im assuming is NOT the stage 2 kit.
This is easy to plumb and the directions are self explanatory. As for wiring it up if you have a total brain fart or are just too pissed off just ground one side of the solenoids and run the power to a normally opened push button switch (NOS ripcord etc) and use that as your trigger..ie no arming switch. This is a really really rigged way and if this is a brand new kit I suggest struggling with the directions.
The kit comes with a hobbs switch that I believe is a 50psi switch. This taps into the shrader valve and the power wire also needs to be wired through to this.
Now the pressure valve has a vacuum line on it that is ran to and teed off of your fuel pressure regulator and this is were it "senses" the nitrous and spikes your fuel pressure.
That is a no brainer too. The next thing to do is read what jets equal what horsepower, again another no brainer.
Now it is a little difficult sometimes to the the 1/8 npt tap to tap into the throttle body decently. If this happens or your are nervous take it to a machine shop and have it done.
Install the nozzle and use some loctite, I like the green. This prevents it from rotating. This is important because nitrous wont hit for crap if it isnt pointed down the intake tract.
Now there are TONS of recommended pieces here, but I wont touch on them as they dont come in your kit. Just remember to have the car over 3000 rpm when you hit the button and or purge it just to keep yourself happy.
As for your timing do this. Remove the PIP connector from your distributor harness. Set the timing to your desired level. You can play with this a bit and I do have recommendations but NOT everyone will agree.
Here goes.
Assuming you have a good fuel pump and the motor is in good tune.
Take out the plugs and install autolite 24s gapped at 38. If you have an MSD box, great!
Now the base timing with say a 50 shot, I myself do not change if it is under 12degrees.
If it is over 12 degrees then I bring it to 12 degrees for a 50 shot.
Now with a good pump, good plugs and a good motor in good tune this is where I deviat and I take only 1 degree of initial timing out for every 50 shot up to 150 shot at that point I go to sometimes 3 degrees.
So lets say you are going with a 100shot then just set the timing to 8 degrees until you get the hang of it and or feel comfortable. Put the pip back in and assuming you have new plugs that are cold and gapped at 35-38 and a good fuel pump in the car you wont have a problem.