Who puts in Roll cages? - Northern California Ford Owners

This is topic Who puts in Roll cages? in forum General Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .

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Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

I am about to pick up a MM 6point witht he swing out doors for the Cobra and the only price I am getting is $650 and thats with interior already out......any better deals out there?

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

umm, i might be able to hook you up with my friend steven who installed mine.

give him a call. Steven Klemoksi of SKFabrication
1.650.387.7300. he might give you a better deal. let him know i told you to call him. his shop is located off Marsh Road in Menlo Park.

marek

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

hey you were going to give me a prive for a 6 point from Hanes racing....PM me a price.

Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :

LOL. Find a new place Craig. The entire purpose of a MM bar is so you don't have to PULL the WHOLE interior out. The bar runs $399 w/ swingouts...after tax and shipping, mine was $500 to my door.
Two welds are required for the whole thing, the rest is bolt-in...drill 24 holes, cut two for the back bars, you're done. [Big Grin]

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

quote:
Originally posted by JohnB:
LOL. Find a new place Craig. The entire purpose of a MM bar is so you don't have to PULL the WHOLE interior out. The bar runs $399 w/ swingouts...after tax and shipping, mine was $500 to my door.
Two welds are required for the whole thing, the rest is bolt-in...drill 24 holes, cut two for the back bars, you're done.

Yea I was prices $380 for the 6 point from LivermorePerformance, but was told to make it NHRA legal it had to be welded in.

Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :

Yup, two welds on the rear bar. That's it.

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

so they charge 75 for delivery, i could charge 40 and make some decent money [Big Grin]

by that i mean i live in fairfield and san luis obispo, my house in SLO is under 2 miles from MM's shop [Big Grin]

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

and it is very easy to put it in

you need a drill and very basic hand tools to do the install, and something to cut plastic interior panels

you need to have two joints welded, a welding shop will do it for about $40

or bring it to me and i will do it for $10

the welding takes literally 5 minutes or less

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

for NASA, SCCA and NHRA, the main hoop needs to be welded to the chassis. just having spot welds here and there wont cut it for the tech inspectors. bolt and weld the puppy down.

marek

[ September 07, 2005, 02:37 AM: Message edited by: Mach0ne351 ]

Posted by season'd 88 (Member # 169) on :

[ November 03, 2006, 08:22 AM: Message edited by: season'd 88 ]

Posted by twstd5.4 (Member # 1981) on :

BigBoyRacing.com

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by twstd5.4:
BigBoyRacing.com

No offense, but hell no! Way over priced, and the work I saw, I wouldn't trust my life with it.

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

Craig, if you can't find someone, we can do it for you.

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

Well I know when I get it, I can get the kit in and bolted down, just need someone to spot weld for me.

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

Well I am sure we can do it. Let me know and we will make it happen.

Posted by twstd5.4 (Member # 1981) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 1Sicgt:

quote:
Originally posted by twstd5.4:
BigBoyRacing.com
No offense, but hell no! Way over priced, and the work I saw, I wouldn't trust my life with it.

None taken...as long as it passes Tech, I'm ok with it.

Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :

talk to Patrick (guy with red 03 cobra)
His friends have a performance shop in hayward. i'm sure they can give you a reasonable price. [patriot]

[ September 08, 2005, 12:43 AM: Message edited by: Jmir018 ]

Posted by Team SOLO (Member # 722) on :

Call Jim Harris. His number is 1-650-464-2452. He has done a whole bunch of work on my 'Junkyard Dog' as well as many other racers. He does quality work at great prices with great turnaround time.

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

to correct machone351's statement

for nhra the main hoop does not have to be welded to the floor to pass nhra tech

for the others i have no clue, but for drag racing, bolting it to the floor is fine, as long as the plate is 6x6 and minimum 1/8 thick, plus four 3/8 bolts per plate

this is way the mm bar is setup, and will pass tech to 10.00 with the welded in seatbelt bar

having a rollbar custom built is optimum, but a days worth of your labor, a few hours and beers for a buddy to help you get the cage in and out of the car a few times, and $500, you cant go wrong

because you get swing outs, you get a bent rear setbelt bar that allows the seat to recline farther for street cruising, it will fit great, it will not take a chassis shop a week to do, etc

these roll bars can be completely installed without paint, do all the fitting, pull it out, paint it or powder coat it, and then reinstall

yes i said powder coat [worship]

painting a roll bar in the car is a pain the butt, i am painting a roll cage in my (or vpr klrs notch??) coupe tommorrow, the whole car has to taped off, the glass was pulled, and is stripped, no fun [Frown]

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

hmm interesting. well, for SCCA and NASA regulations, the cage needs to be welded down. who wants to rely on BOLTS on keeping the cage attached to the chassis?? not I...that's for sure.

marek

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
hmm interesting. well, for SCCA and NASA regulations, the cage needs to be welded down. who wants to rely on BOLTS on keeping the cage attached to the chassis?? not I...that's for sure.

marek

the bolts hold the roll bar to floor on top, and a 6x6 plate on bottom, like a sandwhich with the floor as the meat [Big Grin]

to rip the cage from the floor it would have to be ripped out with it, the grade 8 bolts are stronger than the sheet metal floor by far

now welding it to the floor and to the rocker box would be ideal, thay would actualy be easy with the mm kit to do, but again, not needed by the rules

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
hmm interesting. well, for SCCA and NASA regulations, the cage needs to be welded down. who wants to rely on BOLTS on keeping the cage attached to the chassis?? not I...that's for sure.

marek

Not correct on the NASA rules

15.6.3 Installation
The cage may be removable or may be permanently welded, or any combination
thereof, providing that all aspects of the cage meet these rules.

15.6.6 Main Hoop
The main roll cage hoop shall be as wide as the full width of the interior and must be as
close to the roof as possible without violating CCR section #15.6.2 Inspection. One
continuous length of roll bar tubing shall be used as the main hoop. The main hoop
must consist of not more than four (4) bends maximum, totaling one hundred eighty
(180) degrees +/- ten (10) degrees.

No where it says anything about having to be welded to the floor. It is reccomend, though not said in the rules. But a bolt in, is still legal.

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 66 AC COBRA:

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
hmm interesting. well, for SCCA and NASA regulations, the cage needs to be welded down. who wants to rely on BOLTS on keeping the cage attached to the chassis?? not I...that's for sure.

marek
the bolts hold the roll bar to floor on top, and a 6x6 plate on bottom, like a sandwhich with the floor as the meat
to rip the cage from the floor it would have to be ripped out with it, the grade 8 bolts are stronger than the sheet metal floor by far

now welding it to the floor and to the rocker box would be ideal, thay would actualy be easy with the mm kit to do, but again, not needed by the rules

This is very true. Basically, any design that doesn't tie the subframes, frame and rollbar or the rollbar and rear bulkhead together, basically in a roll "WILL" punch holes through the floor of the car. Plates and all.

[ September 08, 2005, 01:59 AM: Message edited by: 1Sicgt ]

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

when i was racing with NASA, they mentioned that cages needed to be welded down. interesting how their rules say differently. it is best to weld and bolt the cage down.

marek

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
when i was racing with NASA, they mentioned that cages needed to be welded down. interesting how their rules say differently. it is best to weld and bolt the cage down.

marek

if the cage is welded then bolts wont do sqaut, unless i am missing something

when welded fully around the floor plate, the bolts farther center on the plate with just be holding on a floor that is already fully supported by the welds, does that make sense or am i just talking dumb because i just deiced to pull an all nighter to be ready for the 10th

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

Wow lol thanks, anyways, the roll bar comes painted black but I plan on adding padding, also does anyone know if the kit comes with the extra plates to "create" the sandwich?

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 9Venom9:
Wow lol thanks, anyways, the roll bar comes painted black but I plan on adding padding, also does anyone know if the kit comes with the extra plates to "create" the sandwich?

the mm roll bar does come with everything needed to complete the install parts wise, including the sandwhich plates, minus the wedler anyway, you still have to weld the rear bars to the top of the main hoop, they have bolts but that is not nhra legal

the mm bar comes painted black, mine didnt [Frown]

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

well I was told it was painted black, either way, I still plan on padding it so if I have to I will take a can of spray paint to it!

So would it be right to bolt in the rear bars to the main hoop then weld it in?

[ September 08, 2005, 04:03 AM: Message edited by: 9Venom9 ]

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

i welded mine first, then i added the bolts for ADDED support. just to be on the safe side. that is the only reason.

marek

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 9Venom9:
well I was told it was painted black, either way, I still plan on padding it so if I have to I will take a can of spray paint to it!

So would it be right to bolt in the rear bars to the main hoop then weld it in?

Yes, use the bolts to align the down bars, then weld it in place.

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
i welded mine first, then i added the bolts for ADDED support. just to be on the safe side. that is the only reason.

marek

If the weld is worth its weight in gold then the bolts are pointless. If there is any question on if the welds are strong enough, then you don't want that person welding the bar. You trust your life with it, don't f--- around, be 100% in it or go home.

Posted by 9Venom9 (Member # 2805) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 1Sicgt:

quote:
Originally posted by 9Venom9:
well I was told it was painted black, either way, I still plan on padding it so if I have to I will take a can of spray paint to it!

So would it be right to bolt in the rear bars to the main hoop then weld it in?
Yes, use the bolts to align the down bars, then weld it in place.

Thanks!

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

quote:
Originally posted by 1Sicgt:

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
i welded mine first, then i added the bolts for ADDED support. just to be on the safe side. that is the only reason.

marek
If the weld is worth its weight in gold then the bolts are pointless. If there is any question on if the welds are strong enough, then you don't want that person welding the bar. You trust your life with it, don't f--- around, be 100% in it or go home.

man! you think you know everything dont you! haha

[ September 09, 2005, 12:26 AM: Message edited by: Mach0ne351 ]

Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :

After seeing the MM bar in my 93, I honestly believe there is no need to weld it. It is SO tight in the car it's crazy. They really did their homework in designing these.
Also, keep in mind it's a roll BAR, not cage. If you were to actually roll the car, it's not going to matter if it was welded or bolted in...it will push through the floor pan with enough force.

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

quote:
Originally posted by JohnB:
After seeing the MM bar in my 93, I honestly believe there is no need to weld it. It is SO tight in the car it's crazy. They really did their homework in designing these.
Also, keep in mind it's a roll BAR, not cage. If you were to actually roll the car, it's not going to matter if it was welded or bolted in...it will push through the floor pan with enough force.

but its welded anyway [Big Grin]

Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :

Ok, ok, the rear bars are...but that's so it's legal. [Razz]

Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :

quote:
Originally posted by JohnB:
Ok, ok, the rear bars are...but that's so it's legal.

so i take it you got the belt situation figured out, if not give me a call, i dont have another wrap around belt
but i do have a floor mount if you want to hold off on modifying your bars

Posted by 1Sicgt (Member # 714) on :

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:

quote:
Originally posted by 1Sicgt:

quote:
Originally posted by Mach0ne351:
i welded mine first, then i added the bolts for ADDED support. just to be on the safe side. that is the only reason.

marek
If the weld is worth its weight in gold then the bolts are pointless. If there is any question on if the welds are strong enough, then you don't want that person welding the bar. You trust your life with it, don't f--- around, be 100% in it or go home.
man! you think you know everything dont you! haha

No I don't. It's common sence.

Posted by Mach0ne351 (Member # 927) on :

it's common sense that more support is always better. [Roll Eyes]

haha this is getting to the point where it seems a lot of peeps in here would consider bolted-in subframe connectors would be sufficent enough hahaha [worship]

[ September 09, 2005, 01:50 AM: Message edited by: Mach0ne351 ]

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