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Author
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Topic: need oil pan advice
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
 
 
ive been looking around at oil pans and this is the best one i've found so far. if anyone can suggest a better one im open to suggestions (links or part#'s will help a lot too)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-644S/
this is for a drift car with very little ground clearance. i also need one thats baffled and kicked out and i would like one that comes with a windage tray (in a package or seperate, doesnt matter). i will not be running a main girdle.
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Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
oh and also what oil pump would best suit this application?
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-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
Pickup and windage are not included with that pan, no biggie.
Off cuff I can get you that pan for $250 from summit.
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
Pickup and windage are not included with that pan, no biggie.
Off cuff I can get you that pan for $250 from summit.
Dan
Its says in the description that the windage tray is included, but not the pickup. And i appreciate the discount i'll definently come to you when im ready, thanks Dan
Im still open to more suggestions folks!
[ August 07, 2012, 01:23 PM: Message edited by: SydewayzStan ]
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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racsirx
CAFords OG
Member # 1710
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posted
I hate those type, T part of the oil pan always gave me clutch cable problems, it sits too close to the cable and melts it
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88 Saleen #564
88 GT 331 NOVI2000
88 Coupe TURBO 9.75@142
95 Cobra R #75-SOLD
06 F250
13 BMW AH3
17 GT350 #5556
GOD'S NOT DEAD
Posts: 20750 | From: Concord & Pittsburg, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
If i get a pan thats not kicked out, could it be a problem while im drifting? I noticed most of the road race pans are kicked out, and it needs to be stock depth since i have very little ground clearance
[ August 07, 2012, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: SydewayzStan ]
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
they make room for the clutch cable but yes it is close,if anything wrap the cable with some heat material. and the low clearance t pans use a stock height and even sometimes a stock pick up well work. if not ill make u one. and i would use a high volume pump and arp shaft with the revs your doing for the drift setup, and i would get arp rod bolts in that motor and get rid of those freeze plug style oil gallery plugs, and go with real threaded pipe plugs in there place. but i also would have that motor balanced as well. the rods looked touched but nothing else.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by racsirx:
I hate those type, T part of the oil pan always gave me clutch cable problems, it sits too close to the cable and melts it
plus one with Lee but road race or drift application you have to deal with it...
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
[ August 07, 2012, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: SydewayzStan ]
--------------------
-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
pressed in is not balanced. the pistons where not balanced by the look of them. to be balanced the rods have to be dissassembled from the rods. the pistons have to be balanced separate, the rods have to be balanced 3 different ways to be right, there is a bob weight from them, with sum math that then gets carried over to the crank shaft balancing procedure. and most places wont even balance unless u provide the balancer and the fly wheel or flexplate. and if your fancy have your clutch an pressure plate and the dam bolts your using provided to them as well. thus the entire rotating assembling in the lower end had been professionally balanced. i strongly recommend this in your motor to be done if it has not been already if u want your motor to last at all especially in a high rev drift motor. make dans work stay together please. just so u know center force clutchs with the lil weights held together by that wire can not be balanced. due to the weights always shift around.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
and i would throw a heat retard sleeve around the cable mandatory!
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
[ August 07, 2012, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: SydewayzStan ]
--------------------
-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
well was the flywheel or harmonic balancer ever with the crank shaft at the machine shop? they would of needed to be if it was done. i didn't see any machine marks on the pistons but i only took a quick glance, the rods had sum new grooves in the caps that looked like they had been balanced at one time. ask dan for more specifics. and its not the end of the world if not. a simple dis assembly and return to a machine shop pick back up a bit later, then reassembly. and no major blow up later.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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racsirx
CAFords OG
Member # 1710
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posted
The cable actually lays on the oil pan, even wraping the cable didn't work for me or for few guys I know
--------------------
88 Saleen #564
88 GT 331 NOVI2000
88 Coupe TURBO 9.75@142
95 Cobra R #75-SOLD
06 F250
13 BMW AH3
17 GT350 #5556
GOD'S NOT DEAD
Posts: 20750 | From: Concord & Pittsburg, CA | Registered: Aug 2002
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
on my rebuttal on the pan issue. 15 plus pans of that stly ive done, various t pans designs. not one has burned thru or failed. if the cable is routed correctly it should not lay on the pan,it can be held away in various ways, yes it will come close. and even if it did, the correct heat blanket or sheild should have been double insurance it did not burn thru. i like to mainly use stock cables, they are a bit sturdier, and thicker then aftermarket cables. while aftermarket cables are very flimsy and cheaply made, and could be inches away from any heat source and still fail. thus another reason why i use stock cables, and pay double attention to heat source problems. so pay attention stan to your cable routing and do not let it lay on the pan and still heat blanket it and it should absolutely fine. lol get a stock cable to if your super worried
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
[ August 07, 2012, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: SydewayzStan ]
--------------------
-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Sydewayz_Stan
¯
Member # 10217
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
on my rebuttal on the pan issue. 15 plus pans of that stly ive done, various t pans designs. not one has burned thru or failed. if the cable is routed correctly it should not lay on the pan,it can be held away in various ways, yes it will come close. and even if it did, the correct heat blanket or sheild should have been double insurance it did not burn thru. i like to mainly use stock cables, they are a bit sturdier, and thicker then aftermarket cables. while aftermarket cables are very flimsy and cheaply made, and could be inches away from any heat source and still fail. thus another reason why i use stock cables, and pay double attention to heat source problems. so pay attention stan to your cable routing and do not let it lay on the pan and still heat blanket it and it should absolutely fine. lol get a stock cable to if your super worried
gotcha, will do.
--------------------
-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
ask dan about the balancing. when i talked to u it seemed shaky if u had directly asked him to have it done, as was the rod bolts.i personally have arp rod bolts done on every 302 motor, he might feel different. things get lost in translations. he is a very stand up guy tho and maybe didnt know u wanted it done!or he might have had it done and i just have u worried for no reason at all lol. about piston markings if the balance is dead on. no maching is required only on the pistons that are off. i didnt look at all of them. shoot some rotating assemblies i have had done, the crank shafts i had sent in didn't have any machining done as well, the machine shop said they where dead on, as the factory does a fairly gd job balancing these from the factory witch is why i believe these motors stay together so well stock. yours may well of been like that. but double check with dan, he will tell u. im just saying if it wasnt done u should.
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
Motor was balanced. Motor ran in snake bits car when it lost a piston due to improper ring gap (hyper motor with newer KBs I gap at about 28 top on motor)
http://www.californiafords.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000407;p=
I built him a stroker and gave him some credit for the old shortblock which I fixed and sold for a very budget friendly price.
FYI
Tim Pinelli:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7bi7CGESLc
built his motor too.......never even thought about using screw in freeze plugs, never had a girdle on it...stock shortblock prepped by me.......still working great.....
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
on my rebuttal on the pan issue. 15 plus pans of that stly ive done, various t pans designs. not one has burned thru or failed. if the cable is routed correctly it should not lay on the pan,it can be held away in various ways, yes it will come close. and even if it did, the correct heat blanket or sheild should have been double insurance it did not burn thru. i like to mainly use stock cables, they are a bit sturdier, and thicker then aftermarket cables. while aftermarket cables are very flimsy and cheaply made, and could be inches away from any heat source and still fail. thus another reason why i use stock cables, and pay double attention to heat source problems. so pay attention stan to your cable routing and do not let it lay on the pan and still heat blanket it and it should absolutely fine. lol get a stock cable to if your super worried
Tim Pinelli:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7bi7CGESLc
Also had burn through issues on his raced T pan car.
It is a common problem but maybe Jon has come up with a fix I know he does great work.
Dan
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
Off cuff on that 308 shortblock:
If you have any problems with it, any issues or just apprehentions, just plain dont want it. Bring it back to me before Jon or anyone touches it or fires it and Ill give you a full refund......
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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turbo50
¯
Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by turbo50:
Motor was balanced. Motor ran in snake bits car when it lost a piston due to improper ring gap (hyper motor with newer KBs I gap at about 28 top on motor)
http://www.californiafords.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000407;p=
I built him a stroker and gave him some credit for the old shortblock which I fixed and sold for a very budget friendly price.
FYI
Tim Pinelli:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7bi7CGESLc
built his motor too.......never even thought about using screw in freeze plugs, never had a girdle on it...stock shortblock prepped by me.......still working great.....
And when I say improper ring gaps I mean prior to me ever touching it.....whatever machine shop Jay had put it together prior to me....
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Duncan Motors
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Member # 7045
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posted
cool! was the balancer with it when it got balanced or do u still have the flywheel or harmonic balacer that was with it? he only showed me a summit balancer and it looked new in the box
Posts: 6310 | From: Vallejo | Registered: Sep 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
cool! was the balancer with it when it got balanced or do u still have the flywheel or harmonic balacer that was with it? he only showed me a summit balancer and it looked new in the box
Its 50 ounce........pick your poison and quit scaring the kid.
--------------------
.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
whoa, whoa, whoa!! everybody chill out! this thread became something that it definently was never intended to be. i sent a pm to turbo50 to verify that it was balanced, he stated it was, so end of story. its my fault that i didnt ask prior to today. no need for all this other stuff.
so back to the oil pan issue, the canton pan i posted the link to in my original post, high volume oil pump, and modified stock pickup sounds like a plan to me.
now for the water pump, should i get a stock replacement or a high volume water pump? fyi i'm running u/d pullies
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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