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Author
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Topic: Board Master Techs??
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
 
 
I've got a few questions about a problem with the cooling system with my stang. I'd like to find out who are our board techs/mechanics that can help???
![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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the50ho
THE50HO
Member # 73
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posted
What's the problem bro? I am happy to help with what I can, but I have to know what's wrong first. ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
Jack
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Too many motorcycles...and now a destroyed arm from Motocross...brrraaappp
Posts: 4056 | From: Roseville, Ca (Sacramento) | Registered: Nov 2000
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Gear Head
JARED
Member # 779
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posted
Most of everyone on here knows about cars, just post the question and the problem will be solved.
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Support our troops!
Posts: 5685 | From: EASTBAY | Registered: Jan 2002
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
Here is the problem: I’ve just been having some cooling issues with my 1996 Mustang GT Vert. She’s all stock under the hood. A month ago, my heater core blew out-dealer had replaced immediately. At that time, I had a very small radiator leak. Once the dealer finished replacing the heater core and flushed the cooling system, I had ordered from Ford the following parts and were installed the next week; upper and lower hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, and radiator. Now all said and done, car was filled with 50/50 distilled water- Prestone antifreeze combo.
Unfortunately, the car is heating up. Once the car is warm(20mins), the temp will fluctuate and heat will rise to the point where the fan will turn on. Once the fan turns on for a min or 2, temperature will decrease(fan turns off)…only for the temp to rise within a min and then fan will turn on once again. This cycle is continuous at idle(car not moving).
Once car is running, depending on the amount of gas and RPM, the temperature will rise and fluctuate until fan initiates its job once more. Even after driving the car for 10 minutes, you can feel noticeable amount of heat coming from the underside as well as under the hood (once opened).
I’ve brought the vehicle to dealer for cooling system diagnostics. They ran it through the NGS and checked the ECT temp- which they said the fan turns on at 208 degrees. They said it was normal for the fan to turn on and off. What car does this when the temp. outside is 60degrees? Specially when it’s a consistent cycle as long as the car is on (moving or not).
Would you guys happen to have any idea as to why this happens? Any info will be appreciated.
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
Id have a close look at the water pump.
Water Wetter and 20% anti freeze the rest water.
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
the water pump, i believe, is the only one left in the cooling system that has not been replaced.
How can I find out if the water pump is going out on me?
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
These cooling issues can be hard to track down. To me (and Im no master mechanic) if it is the only thing left why not replace it?
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
i would do it, but i just don't want to spend another few hundred dollars only to find out that its not the problem. it is frustrating...specially when it when the weather starts to heat up.
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by PunkINa5.SLOW:
Id have a close look at the water pump.
Water Wetter and 20% anti freeze the rest water.
Water pumps are normally fine as long as they don't leak. It's just a blade (fan, whatever) on a shaft connected to the pulley with bearings & a rubber seal. Unless the system is severly corroded(sp) it should be fine.
Definately get rid of all that Antifreeze. 20% is plenty for our climate.
I also perscribe 2 botles of water wetter, 2-3qts of antifreeze & the rest water.
What's your timing at? Fuel pressure? Stock parts can vary a bit & cause higher enine temps.
But, if she pulls hard & isn't pinging, the normal steps for curing a hot car is less antifreeze, water wetter, then a nice Fluidyn radiator. Assuming all other parts are functioning normally of course.
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www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
I can see where you are coming from TriplePlay but if it actually fixes it and you have no more issues wont you be all that much happier?
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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JoeT
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Member # 298
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posted
as long as you have 50k + miles, the ford factory water pump is suspect. I believe normal failure is at or around 80k miles.
check your 'weep' hole on the water pump. It's supposed to be dry. 'wet' equals blown internal seal and time for a new pump.
thermostat could be fubared, wouldn't hurt to check. that and the temperature sensor (ECT) who knows. maybe it's not actually hot?
Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
From my experience if you are on the freeway and the car runs warm then the water pump is a good suspect.
Here is why I say this. When on the freeway turning say 2,000RPM there is enough airflow to make even a shitty radiator look like it is doing its job so if you are getting warmer on the freeway at a constant RPM then that water that is in the radiator and nice and cool may not be getting circulated well enough. This of course if assuming the thermostat and such are in good shape or new, like yours.
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
guys, thanks for the replies. specially this early in the morning.
i'd have to say, i've been suspecting the water pump as well. i will check tomorrow for "wetness" as shade-tree had mentioned.
i'm actually thinking of replacing the t-stat again, even though it is brand new. it least it is less than $20.
i was thinking of bringing the car to a shop the specializes on stangs. i've been referred to Sacramento Mustangs...but it's quite a drive. Any other shops closer to the bay that specialize in stangs?
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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PunkINa5.SLOW
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Member # 10
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posted
Nah but for what its worth I say tackle it yourself. Get a bunch of guys together off of here and have at it.
Come on man cant be that hard no need to pay someone outrages dollars to put on a freak water pump man!!!
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OUTTA THA DRAMA
R.I.P. MIKE STARKEY MY BABY BROTHER
12/8/77-5/17/03
Posts: 2495 | From: MTZ | Registered: Sep 2000
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93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
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posted
Ya know, there could just be air bubles stuck in the system. The T-stat that was installed, did it have a 'burp' hole? If a normal off-the-shelf unit is used, you should drill a 1/8 inch hole in the damn thing & install it so it's in the up possition.
Oh, Forget about Sac Mustang. You ALREADY know more than those fools.
Seriously, talk to John (JT) & you'll know what I'm talking about.
He tends to leave tools in the engine compartment...
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www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
Man, I’m glad to hear that some of you’ll are willing to help out.
93Pony- The thermostat is from Ford- so it’s factory part. It does have the burp hole. How do I “burp” the system? From what I remember, I topped off the fluids, drove the car for about an hour, cooled down the car- then topped it off once more and the fluid level has not gone down since then. It’s that bad in Sac Mustang? That’s what I’ve been trying to avoid, is to spend money that I don’t have on some shop that is not trustworthy.Thanks for looking out!
I just hope to find a solution for this problem before it starts getting hot again.
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
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posted
If it's a Ford unit, it should be cool.
Here, read this page:
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
I'd first try the cheap fix. 2 bottles of water wetter, 2-3qts of anti-freeze & water. Then go from there if things persist.
FYI, these engines are made to run at 200 degrees. 212 is the boiling point of water, 250 on a 15psi system. 265 with a 50/50 mix & 15psi system.
& yes JT's IS that bad. Lets just say a few years ago my GFs stang (that they built) had a stalling/idling problem. Alone with a few other bugs. She spent more than a few hundred $$$ there trying to get it to idle. Nothing worked. Took me 20 minutes using the article on the Corral to get that puppy to purr. What a waste of $$$.
Every time she's taken her car there I've had to re-due their work. It's discusting.
Actually, not every time. She had her rear-end rebuilt when she got 3.73's & it's been fine. They wanted $275 just for the install, but eventually did it for $195.
The good thing that came out of my experiences with them is now I do as much work as I can. I do NOT trust anybody touching my car or hers. Knowledge is power my friend. In our case Literally!
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www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
knowledge is power- definitely agree!! i'd love to work on my cars as long as I have good literatures(ie.manuals) that i can follow. But this Chilton is crap!! I've had a 65 stang that I totally loved and departed from. I learned so much from her...she was my first!
My next project is the suspension- I've the springs, c/c plates, lca's, isolators. All I need now are the shocks/stuts and upper control arms.
One more thing....does any one in here have 96-98 GTs that has a motor that has not been modded out. Asking so maybe we can compare the two cars to see if it heats up as bad as mines!!!
ANYONE???
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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VNMKING
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Member # 480
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posted
As long as it's not over-heating there really isn't a mojor problem. The first thing that popped in my head was the wrong temp. thermostat was used. But it could also be the pump.
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65’ Coupe
94’ Cobra
"VNMKING"
Posts: 1000 | From: Roseville, CA | Registered: Oct 2001
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
i'll probably replace the water pump when i get some extra funds...how long would it usually take to replace the water pump? anyone on this board available to help me out with install??? i'll buy you dinner!!?? ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
also, if i drain the coolant. Do i still need to flush the system before i could change over to water wetter/ distilled water combo? would it hinder the cooling system if i have a trace of antifreeze in it, if i don't flush it with water?
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1996 Mustang GT Vert
Philippians 4:13-
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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BlueOvalRacing
unregistered
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posted
Before you go out and replace the w/pump, where exactly are you running on your temp gauge? Are you sure that you have the thermostat installed the right way? Even though it sounds silly, I've seen "journeyman" techs put them in backasswards because they they weren't paying attention.
Under car heat isn't a good measure of how hot an engine is running. You need to remember that when the ambient temp increases, the harder it is for the cooling system to keep your car at the 195 degrees that the engine is designed to run at. Exhaust temps from your catalytic converters can go over 400 degrees, so when your fan comes on, you are feeling all the hot air that is pushed past your exhaust system coming from under your car + the normal heat exchange from the radiator and a/c condenser (which also gets hot)
Look on the front of your car for any obstructions (plastic bags,lots of bugs) that could possibly block airflow through the radiator and a/c condenser. Wash out the fins of the rad and condenser using a garden hose.
Make sure you go over all the little stuff before you throw money away on stuff that won't fix your car. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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BlueOvalRacing
unregistered
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posted
As a worst case scenario, here is a Ford TSB relating to high temps:
96-25-12
AIR CONDITIONING - AIR CONDITIONING SHUTS OFF IN HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES AND VEHICLE MAY OVERHEAT - 4.6L AND GT OR COBRA
COOLING SYSTEM - OVERHEATING AND/OR VEHICLE GOING INTO THERMO PROTECTION MODE - VEHICLES WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND GT OR COBRA
Publication Date: DECEMBER 2, 1996
FORD: 1996 MUSTANG
ISSUE:
In severe operating environments (ambient temperatures above 38°C/100°F and/or extended high engine rpms) some vehicles may experience engine overheating and/or enter into the thermo protection mode. In thermo protection mode, the A/C system will shut off accompanied by a reduction in engine power. This may be caused by insufficient cooling from the cooling system in these types of environments.
ACTION:
Install a severe duty Cooling System Kit. The kit will increase the vehicle's cooling system capacity to operate more efficiently in severe conditions. Refer to the following text for additional information.
The Cooling System Kit will include a larger radiator, larger cooling fan, a revised A/C condenser and all necessary hardware.
NOTE: THIS TSB ARTICLE PRIMARILY AFFECTS THE WARM SOUTHERN UNITED STATES (ALABAMA, ARIZONA, CALIFORNIA, COLORADO, FLORIDA, GEORGIA, LOUISIANA, NEVADA, NEW MEXICO, OKLAHOMA, SOUTH CAROLINA, TEXAS AND UTAH).
APPLICATION CHART
Vehicle Part Number
GT w/manual trans. and w/o ABS F6ZZ-8005-EA
GT w/manual trans. and w/ABS F6ZZ-8005-FA
GT w/auto. trans. and w/o ABS F6ZZ-8005-GA
GT w/auto. trans. and w/ABS F6ZZ-8005-HA
Cobra F6ZZ-8005-JA
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F6ZZ-8005-EA Cooling System Kit
F6ZZ-8005-FA Cooling System Kit
F6ZZ-8005-GA Cooling System Kit
F6ZZ-8005-HA Cooling System Kit
F6ZZ-8005-JA Cooling System Kit
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TriplePLAY
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Member # 948
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posted
BlueOvalRacing -thanks for the post- the temp gauge is actually in good working condition. The T-stat was installed by myslelf and made sure I had installed it the same way when I had pulled out the old one.
funny you mentioned, but i've been noticing the heat a bit more as of late. only because the fan would be on every other min. at the same time the the temp gauge would lower when it fan kicks in.
my fear is that if the fan does not turn on- the car would just overheat.
the TSB was informative as well..right on!I did find out that the temp was lower when the A/C is on -specially on cold nights. I think it lowers the temp only because the fan is ON the whole time.
As of today, the car still heats up. And before I spend another bill on cooling diagnostics, I'd rather have some more ideas to resolve this issue.
Posts: 332 | From: Bay Area, California | Registered: Feb 2002
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