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Author
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Topic: Well, there goes the car fund
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
 
 
Have to make way for the boat at some point. Extended the driveway 15 feet plus redid the old one. New driveway will be 40 ft, stamped concrete plus new patio and walkway. Next up, low maintenance land scape, wrought iron fence and redoing the good neighbor fence.
Anyone else got some house stuff going on?
Just when I thought car's were an expensive hobby ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
[ 2013-05-12, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: adower ]
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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ArchersGT
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Member # 5177
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posted
Nice! Hope you chose a reputable company and not a bargain crew. I've seen quarter million dollar stamp jobs fail in under 10 years. ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
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86' LX Vert
Posts: 3241 | From: 916/707 | Registered: Jan 2005
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
Definitely didn't go cheap on it. ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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ArchersGT
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Member # 5177
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quote:
Originally posted by adower:
Definitely didn't go cheap on it.
10-15 years from now it will be
"definitely didn't go cheap on it. ![[Smile]](smile.gif) "
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86' LX Vert
Posts: 3241 | From: 916/707 | Registered: Jan 2005
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sic70stang
CAFords OG
Member # 4347
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posted
That driveway is going to be well worth it. I just had to get a new fence between the house. Now moving my gate up for the side access. Hopefully it's done by Saturday next week.
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The anti-crew
1987 rolling safety violation.
Posts: 6940 | From: California | Registered: Jul 2005
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sic70stang
CAFords OG
Member # 4347
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posted
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The anti-crew
1987 rolling safety violation.
Posts: 6940 | From: California | Registered: Jul 2005
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by ECOboostin:
That driveway is going to be well worth it. I just had to get a new fence between the house. Now moving my gate up for the side access. Hopefully it's done by Saturday next week.
Is that redwood? That thing looks Nice!!
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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sic70stang
CAFords OG
Member # 4347
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posted
Yea it's redwood. Paid a little extra for that and had them sand the edges smooth.
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The anti-crew
1987 rolling safety violation.
Posts: 6940 | From: California | Registered: Jul 2005
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Greasy
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Member # 5258
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by ECOboostin:
Yea it's redwood. Paid a little extra for that and had them sand the edges smooth.
That's a very nice fence, I wish I had a long driveway like yours.
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'93 Cobra-Coyote Powered
'03 DSG Cobra
'13 Dodge Cummins
'14 Rubicon X
Posts: 3272 | From: North Dallas | Registered: Jan 2005
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Infamous5.0
CAFords OG
Member # 1745
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posted
If you need extra money you can always sell me that notch. Since you paid for the fence why is the ugly side on your side?
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To be or not to be
Posts: 2340 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Aug 2002
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sic70stang
CAFords OG
Member # 4347
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Infamous5.0:
If you need extra money you can always sell me that notch. Since you paid for the fence why is the ugly side on your side?
Both sides of the fence are the same.
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The anti-crew
1987 rolling safety violation.
Posts: 6940 | From: California | Registered: Jul 2005
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venomous99
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Member # 1917
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posted
stamp concrete is nice but id be worried about movement which then can cause cracks in that beautiful concrete. i guess it all depends on how your base is and whether you actually have enough movement to cause cracks. my driveway has cracks while my neighbor has practically a fracture free driveway.
home projects are never ending....for my own, getting new garage doors and motors installed later this wk qne contemplating yet another renovation for my inlaw setup or pimp the backyard w/ paver stones and/or new patio/deck. list goes on and on....
Posts: 4811 | From: dc | Registered: Oct 2002
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John91coupe
CAFords OG
Member # 18
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posted
Should put rebar support blocks under that rebar to keep it off the dirt. Dirt will rust the rebar over time and provide little help for preventing cracks in the concrete. They are cheap and easy to install.
[ 2013-05-13, 08:13 AM: Message edited by: John91coupe ]
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D-2R ProCharged R302 331
1.410 60 ft.
5.784 @ 122.92 1/8
8.953 @ 155.08
MM&FF Feature June 2003
Posts: 1361 | From: Grass Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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FordRyderz510
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Member # 6771
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by ECOboostin:
Looks good..big difference a project like this makes the house lot look better. That was a big stretch of fence huh
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Ford Ryderz -Est. 2003
88' GT
96' GT
97' Saleen #17
94' GT-Sold
Posts: 1894 | From: Hayward | Registered: May 2006
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cemelevu
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Member # 10601
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posted
Putting in a double gate for "rv" access on the side of my house. moving the gate/fence line out about 3 ft. Called 811 on the 2nd, and still waiting for pg&e to come out and mark where the gas main and electric lines are...
Posts: 474 | Registered: Jan 2011
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SF Coupe
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Member # 1810
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by John91coupe:
Should put rebar support blocks under that rebar to keep it off the dirt. Dirt will rust the rebar over time and provide little help for preventing cracks in the concrete. They are cheap and easy to install.
Rebar does nothing to prevent cracking in concrete, it will hold cracked concrete together to some degree but you will still have cracks. The best way to minimize cracking is with a level, uniformly compacted subbase with either compacted baserock or sand on top of that.
Posts: 1082 | From: SF | Registered: Sep 2002
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SF Coupe:
quote:
Originally posted by John91coupe:
Should put rebar support blocks under that rebar to keep it off the dirt. Dirt will rust the rebar over time and provide little help for preventing cracks in the concrete. They are cheap and easy to install.
Rebar does nothing to prevent cracking in concrete, it will hold cracked concrete together to some degree but you will still have cracks. The best way to minimize cracking is with a level, uniformly compacted subbase with either compacted baserock or sand on top of that.
That's is word for word what my contractor said. Basically all concrete will crack at some point. Rebar just helps to keep it together.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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John91coupe
CAFords OG
Member # 18
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by SF Coupe:
quote:
Originally posted by John91coupe:
Should put rebar support blocks under that rebar to keep it off the dirt. Dirt will rust the rebar over time and provide little help for preventing cracks in the concrete. They are cheap and easy to install.
Rebar does nothing to prevent cracking in concrete, it will hold cracked concrete together to some degree but you will still have cracks. The best way to minimize cracking is with a level, uniformly compacted subbase with either compacted baserock or sand on top of that.
Right, that's why crack lines are put in the concrete. But if you leave that rebar on the dirt you WILL get cracks in the concrete in places you don't want them.
[ 2013-05-13, 05:24 PM: Message edited by: John91coupe ]
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D-2R ProCharged R302 331
1.410 60 ft.
5.784 @ 122.92 1/8
8.953 @ 155.08
MM&FF Feature June 2003
Posts: 1361 | From: Grass Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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75 chevy
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Member # 6717
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posted
Can't you put some anti corrosion resistant material under the rebar...like Styrofoam or something like that?metal etching primer on the actual rebar.
Posts: 1917 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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lxhatch5.0
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Member # 6319
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posted
+1 Support Blocks and maybe some kind of primer sealer on rebard. Regardless rebard and concrete will hold up ive done a few demo jobs and taking concrete apart with a jack hamer that has rebarb support is no walk in the park. Anything that helps to prevent unwanted craks that are eyesoares is a plus.
Dumping Money On Stang<Dumping Money On House
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*NorCal
Posts: 1556 | Registered: Dec 2005
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John91coupe
CAFords OG
Member # 18
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 75 chevy:
Can't you put some anti corrosion resistant material under the rebar...like Styrofoam or something like that?metal etching primer on the actual rebar.
Just about anything that won't rust will work like rocks or pieces of broken cement.
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D-2R ProCharged R302 331
1.410 60 ft.
5.784 @ 122.92 1/8
8.953 @ 155.08
MM&FF Feature June 2003
Posts: 1361 | From: Grass Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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SF Coupe
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Member # 1810
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 75 chevy:
Can't you put some anti corrosion resistant material under the rebar...like Styrofoam or something like that?metal etching primer on the actual rebar.
You can but it's a lot easier and cheaper to put the blocks (they are called "dobies"). Your contractor can also lift the rebar as the concrete is poured but if the load is wet the rebar will just sink to the bottom. The best bet is to use dobies and make sure the concrete crew doesn't walk all over the rebar during the pour, it will bend and touch the dirt which defeats the purpose.
Posts: 1082 | From: SF | Registered: Sep 2002
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50Reasons
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Member # 6452
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posted
When you pour the concrete.. if the rebar is on the dirt just pull the rebar up an inch after the concrete is poured with a hook, it will lift off the dirt and lay in the middle but be carefull not to pull up to much , as it's almost impossible to push the rebar back into the concrete where It can't be seen..
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50Reasons Car Club President
Daniel/50Reasons
http://youtu.be/n_UkDg_F4MQ
https://youtu.be/066xRvxKy-g
Posts: 9483 | From: Sacramento Ca | Registered: Jan 2006
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adower
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Member # 5955
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posted
^^^
They used this method above. I have some finished pics to put up.
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98 Cobra
Griggs
S Trim
HRE
Posts: 3327 | Registered: Aug 2005
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venomous99
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Member # 1917
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posted
out of curiosity how much this run you..$$/sqft?
Posts: 4811 | From: dc | Registered: Oct 2002
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