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Author
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Topic: do these cylinder walls look ok to you *pics*
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
 
 
theres some very light vertical scratches on my cylinder walls, they dont catch my fingernail at all and i cant really feel them with my fingertips i just wanted a second opinion before i decide to go ahead with this block. i used outside micrometers at 90* angles and at different depths in each cylinder and they all came within one thousandth of each other so theyre not ovaled or tapered. in my opinion they look good enough just to put a good hone on it and run it as is. heres the pics:
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
Hard to see in the pics. I say just knock the glaze off with a bottle hone.
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
Ok will do. Thanks Dan
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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LXjames
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Member # 10791
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posted
deglaze them then crosshatch them
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On Point Motorsport prez.
King Lx
Posts: 4761 | From: Pittsburg CA | Registered: Mar 2011
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by lucius50fox:
deglaze them then crosshatch them
No just deglaze them to slap new rings in.......
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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Sydewayz_Stan
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Member # 10217
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posted
Just to clarify, a bottle hone is the one with all those little balls (lol) on it, right?
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-90 Vert-SOLD
-91 Notch-SOLD
-2000 Explorer 5.0-SOLD
-72 Maverick-SOLD
-2004 GT, vortech V2 si, 10 psi-
-2002 F150 supercrew-
Posts: 3432 | From: 707 vallejo/richmond 510 | Registered: Aug 2010
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by sydewayzLX50:
Just to clarify, a bottle hone is the one with all those little balls (lol) on it, right?
Yes.
There are different grits for final hones but I just knock the glaze off with a 240 ball hone (universal deal) and have done over 35 of em with no issues. One even has another 130K on it now!
Dan
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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LXjames
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Member # 10791
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posted
o well if you doing new rings koo. idk i was taught to put cross hatchis so theres no set lines for oil to travel through. is that bad?
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On Point Motorsport prez.
King Lx
Posts: 4761 | From: Pittsburg CA | Registered: Mar 2011
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by lucius50fox:
o well if you doing new rings koo. idk i was taught to put cross hatchis so theres no set lines for oil to travel through. is that bad?
For a bresh bore that needs a finish hone then, yes you want crosshatch.
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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90lxfoxbody
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Member # 6947
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posted
SPEND the 100 bucks for a quality machine hone and wash of. the block so the rings have a nice round correct surface to bite into.
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Owner Of All Out Performance
Ya I own that Cobra
Old setup whipple and jug 9.37 155
New twins hoping for 8.50s at 165
Posts: 588 | From: fresno ca | Registered: Jul 2006
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 90lxfoxbody:
SPEND the 100 bucks for a quality machine hone and wash of. the block so the rings have a nice round correct surface to bite into.
I agree but there are several issues with that the first, cost can quickly add up to much more than $100 bux unless you know someone or own a performance shop etc I speak from real world experience on this, not just pullin shit outta my ass.
Second, most shops are pretty busy and dont really wanna mess with doin anything other than tankin the block, boring and final hone.
I also never had a ring sealing issue with re ring and bearing these motors and they have gone as fast as 10.20s....more than once...
Its good ass advice and if it was $100 bux, locally and promptly, then thats a great price.
From my experience if the motor needs more than a jet wash then the cam bearings get hammered when tanked so they need replaced. They are cheap and replacing them is about $40 in labor at the typical shop. So boil is about $75 and cam bearings are about $25 then finish hone is $80...well thats $220 right there.....
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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