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Author
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Topic: won't crank/ weird noise
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
 
 
Ok, I just put in a new engine in and have been driving it around a little to get it broken in. If i shut it off and tried to restart it again it would have a hard time cranking over (almost like a dying battery). One of the ground cables would start to smoke when trying to start it(the one on the drivers side that connects from the firewall to engine). Thats the original problem, now...
I tried to start it up a few days ago and the car had full power but would not crank over in the slightest.
So i replaced the starter and the solonoid and double checked all the connections. It still wont crank at all. But now it makes a strange electrical buzzing noise near the new solonoid whenever i attempt to start it... but like i said, no movement from the starter.
Any ideas would be very appreciated
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
you have a shitty ground from the battery to the chassis.
replace the terminals on the battery ground, and if its a trunk mounted battery ground it to a quad shock mounting bolt, and run another ground from the front of the drivers side head (or off the p/s bracket) to the sway bar bushing mount bolts on the drivers side frame rail
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
It is a trunk mounted battery, and i have not checked all of the grounds yet. Thanks for the advice guys... ill let you know how it goes.
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
Ok, The terminals are very clean, i have a ground wird going from the headbolt on the drivers side to the sway bar bracket, and the battery is grounded to the quad shock. But there is still no difference ![[Mad]](mad.gif)
I should say that I am trying to jumpstart the car... the battery is dead. Not sure if that makes a difference though.
The starter will still not move and it still makes a weird crackling noise in the area of the solonoid.
Any more help guys??
I really want to get this boat running
Thanks for any help ![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
???
TTT
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
How dead is your battery? Once it took two tow trucks to jump my car 'cause my battery was so dead.
When you are jumping the car try letting the car you are jumping from run for a bit with the cables hooked up to build a bit of a charge. If that doesn't work you can try putting the battery on a charger overnight.
If that doesn't work check the cable from the relay to the starter and make sure it is tight and the insulation is good.
I actually put a brand new starter that was bad. You could have the same problem. Have you changed the starter relay?
[ July 29, 2005, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: 92stangLX ]
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
Alright, i got the car to crank over and start. It worked after i replaced the battery. Thanks.
Im still having a problem with starting the car after i have already been driving it. After its already started i need to let it sit for at least 5 min till i can start it again.
Its a new engine, new battery, new solonoid, new starter, and i have a 4g ground from rear mount battery to quad and a 4g from head to swaybar mount....
What else can i do to fix this problem???
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
Are you running long tube headers? I have heard of heat related issues if you are running long tubes. Also, double check the cable going from the relay to the starter and make sure it is tight and not damaged.
You could try some sort of heat shield around the starter to see if it fixes the issue.
Like I said in my previous post, I have gotten a new (not remanufactured) starter that was bad. Turns out the post where the high tension (??) cable connects to was loose in the starter and the connection was not good.
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
I am not running long tube headers... so thats a no. The cable also seems to be fine and the connection is nice and tight.
Someone told me that they made shims for the starters, is this true??? he said that it backed the starter off just a bit, allowing it to operarte better. he said that is was something chevy had used for a long time and ford started using them recently. Anyone heard of this?
....I may just try a heat shield and replacing the wire
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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CornOil_&_Boost
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Member # 5888
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sound like your starter is getting hot somehow...they do make starter shims....they're like 8 bucks....
However...you might want to think about your coil too?...What type of coil do you have?...IF its any type of oil-filled one...it might be getting hot and could cause an abnormal condition after the car is warm
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https://www.facebook.com/pushrodpoweredmustangs
'95 Cobra - small engine / small turbo -
'02 Excursion 7.3 - tow vehicle
'14 - Chevy Volt - DD
Posts: 5097 | Registered: Jul 2005
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rickm347
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Member # 5323
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posted
Coils are either good or bad, theres no in between.
Now you said that you have to wait about 5 minutes before you can start it again??? Will the car turn over when you turn the key or what exactly does it do???
Posts: 936 | From: Chico | Registered: Feb 2005
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h8louzn
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Member # 1075
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posted
Make sure all the grounds are clean and down to bare metal!
I have never heard of anyone using a head bolt for a ground??
I hope you mean a acc. hole in the head and not a head bolt!!!
Also do you have the grounds from the rear of the engine to the firewall and the computer hooked up??
Just some grounds that most people forget!
Good luck.
Posts: 593 | From: Sac. | Registered: Mar 2002
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
Rickm237 - After i start the car (turns over great) and then drive it for even a short distance (like around the block), i cant get it to start back up again. When i turn the key it gives a real feeble attempt to turn over and then nothing. The longer i wait to try and start it again the more crank it gives, but wont actually start for around 10min.
Jordan 0608 - The coil is a MSD and it is brand new.
More help please
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
Should i not be using my head bolt as a ground??
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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h8louzn
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Member # 1075
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I wouldn't there are plenty of places on the block to ground it!
Why would you put a terminal under a bolt that you have to torque down??
Also you now have your ground attached to a bolt that should have some sort of sealant on it!
And if you have a problem with the ground what do you have to remove to get the cable off?
The head bolt, and why would you want to untorque and good head bolt??
Not trying to be a smart ass, Just pointing out the reasons not to use that bolt.
Now on off my soap box, and on to the problem.
Do you have someone that can help you trouble shoot the problem?
You would need to have someone try and start the car while you are under the hood.
If so, and you have a VOM find a place that has what you belive is a good ground.
Attach the VOM to that point and to the sel.
See how many volts you have at the SEL.
Now have them try and start the car.
See how many volts you have now.
LMK
[ August 12, 2005, 04:49 PM: Message edited by: h8louzn ]
Posts: 593 | From: Sac. | Registered: Mar 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by h8louzn:
I wouldn't there are plenty of places on the block to ground it!
Why would you put a terminal under a bolt that you have to torque down??
Also you now have your ground attached to a bolt that should have some sort of sealant on it!
And if you have a problem with the ground what do you have to remove to get the cable off?
The head bolt, and why would you want to untorque and good head bolt??
Not trying to be a smart ass, Just pointing out the reasons not to use that bolt.
Now on off my soap box, and on to the problem.
Do you have someone that can help you trouble shoot the problem?
You would need to have someone try and start the car while you are under the hood.
If so, and you have a VOM find a place that has what you belive is a good ground.
Attach the VOM to that point and to the sel.
See how many volts you have at the SEL.
Now have them try and start the car.
See how many volts you have now.
LMK
if you actually checkout the link that gave instructions on upgrading the engine ground you would see that it not a HEAD BOLT as in the bolts that hold the head to the block, but a empty hole in the drivers side head facing the front of the car that is threaded, you ground this to the swaybar bolts on the same side using a bolt screwed into the head!
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
Ya my bad on the ground point... thanks for straightening me out.
I have my computer ground connected, and 1 ground on each side of the engine hooked from the swaybar bracket to the front of the head (not the actual head bolts).
It seems to have helped out a little bit but still has a pretty slow start... im looking into the Sel. now.
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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section525
Sponsored by Corona®
Member # 2819
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posted
I'd go ahead and sell it...
...to me. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Wish I could help more though.
[ August 14, 2005, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: section525 ]
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1996 5.0L K&N Intake, E-303 Cam, 1.6 Roller Rockers, TM Headers, Magnaflow, on 35s!
Posts: 207 | From: Chico, CA | Registered: May 2003
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