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» Northern California Ford Owners     » Automotive   » Tech Talk   » 94 GT Running Hot

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Author Topic: 94 GT Running Hot
Floored
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I recently replaced my stock radiator with a newer fluidyne one, a 180 degree thermo & replaced both sensors (fan one & the one that goes in the intake). Problem is car is running very hot (or at least I think it is anyway), the car heats up to the "A" spot on the "normal" then the fan will kick on and cool it down to the "R" then car heats back up again and so fourth.. We have tried to burp the system numerous times, yet nothing has changed.. Only other thing I can think of is my overflow bottle is cracked - but could that cause my car to over heat??

Any help appriciated, thanks [Smile]

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~Alice
..blast from the past..

Posts: 788 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Jan 2003  |  :
94gt
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your fan should be on anytime you are doing under about 45mph, or when you have the a/c turned on...

I had the same problem, car ran ok, but then got up to the "A" and would take forever to cool down... JohnB [worship] suggested that I replace the thermostat that was in the car. when I bought it.. turns out it was a 160degree thermostat! I put in the stock 192-195 one from kragen, and the car hardly goes past the "R," even under hard acceleration! [burnout]

Just my experience! Let me know what you find!
[patriot]

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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw

Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003  |  :
GTSLN97
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try redline water wetter. worked good for me. I used 2 bottles and the rest distilled water.
Posts: 491 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Sep 2002  |  :
The TASM
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I recently had the same problem with my 94 GT. I took it to a radiator shop to have my cooling system pressure tested and my radiator for leaks. Turns out the condenser canister was clogged or dirty and had accumulated alot of sludge. They said it was preventing heat/cooling exchange or something like that, nontheless,my car runs a bit less than normal on a hot day with the stock radiator and all the bolt on's.
Posts: 558 | From: nineonesix | Registered: Jun 2001  |  :
highofftiresmoke
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any white smoke or bubbles in the radiator when u open the cap when the car is on ?? maybee head gasket it going ...

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90 red lx - sold
90 white lx -sold
90 red gt - in progess and then for sale ...

Posts: 482 | From: san jose,ca | Registered: Dec 2002  |  :
outlawd94cobra
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quote:
Turns out the condenser canister was clogged or dirty and had accumulated alot of sludge.
Whats the condenser canister? Do you mean the overflow reservoir?

quote:
Only other thing I can think of is my overflow bottle is cracked - but could that cause my car to over heat??
Doubt it, but you should get that replaced, coolant that gets in that reservoir gets sucked back into your radiator when your engine cools down. Since its cracked, your just losing all that coolant, you better keep checking your coolant level.

quote:
your fan should be on anytime you are doing under about 45mph, or when you have the a/c turned on...
Your LOW SPEED fan should kick on at around 218-220 degrees F and shut off at around 204-208 degrees F. Your HIGH SPEED fan should come on only when your AC is on HIGH.

quote:
any white smoke or bubbles in the radiator when u open the cap when the car is on ?? maybee head gasket it going ...
Hows your cars idle? Is it pretty rough and shaky?

Try the Water Wetter, replace the bottle, re-check the fluidyne and see if its clogged already, and see what happens.

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CRYSTAL WHITE 1994 COBRA; TOTALED
RIO RED 1994 COBRA INDY PACE CAR; SOLD(now in VACAVILLE)
(#18 of 1000)
BLACK 2002 GT Vert' AUTO; GONE!

Posts: 635 | From: Stockton, CA | Registered: May 2001  |  :
94gt
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Not to start an arguement, but verbatim from the chiltons (p 3-49),

"The single speed electric cooling fan is attached to the fan shroud behind the radiator. The system is wired to operate only with the ignition switch in the RUN position. The cooling fan is controlled by a solid state Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) and the engine contro computer"

also,

"The CCRM will energize the fan with power from the fuse link when it and the engine control module recieve input from the temperature switch, indicating that the engine coolant temperature has reached at least 221*F (105*C). The fan is designed to stop once the temperature drops below 200*F (90*C). The CCRM and engine control module will also activate the cooling fan if the A/C is on and the vehicle does not provide a sufficient airflow (they energize the fan below 43mph (69 km/h) and stop the fan at or above 48mph (77km/h)."

Just putting that out there, as not to confuse anyone! [patriot]

[ August 13, 2003, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: 94gt ]

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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw

Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003  |  :
outlawd94cobra
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Thats the SAME thing i said bro' except you said it in "Chilton" terms.... and BTW, CHILTON sucks balls, refer to them when you have an electrical problem. [patriot]

And another thing, hook up your cpu to a scanner / code reader and see EXACTLY where the fan turns on and shuts off. Everything is'nt pinpoint right in a Chiltons, look on one of their pages and see where they located the ECT sensor and the Temp Sending Unit Sensor. One of them was WROOOOOOOOOOOONG.

[ August 13, 2003, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: outlawd94cobra ]

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CRYSTAL WHITE 1994 COBRA; TOTALED
RIO RED 1994 COBRA INDY PACE CAR; SOLD(now in VACAVILLE)
(#18 of 1000)
BLACK 2002 GT Vert' AUTO; GONE!

Posts: 635 | From: Stockton, CA | Registered: May 2001  |  :
94gt
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damnit! it didnt quote your post correctly, I was just trying to point out the single speed fan, and if it helped the dude, the paragraph to
read... he might not have the chilton/ haynes [patriot]

- the trouble shooting trees are nice, but if a problem inculded running/ tracing wires for a short/open... i wouldnt refer to it for an electrical problem!!! im sure you feel me on that one! [Big Grin] I guess Im a bit spoiled by our aircraft manuals! [Razz]

[ August 13, 2003, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: 94gt ]

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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw

Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003  |  :
outlawd94cobra
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yeah yeah my bad.... Mr. Electrician. [worship] I see you finally got those headers in.....

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CRYSTAL WHITE 1994 COBRA; TOTALED
RIO RED 1994 COBRA INDY PACE CAR; SOLD(now in VACAVILLE)
(#18 of 1000)
BLACK 2002 GT Vert' AUTO; GONE!

Posts: 635 | From: Stockton, CA | Registered: May 2001  |  :
outlawd94cobra
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crap 2x post. SORRY.

[ August 13, 2003, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: outlawd94cobra ]

Posts: 635 | From: Stockton, CA | Registered: May 2001  |  :
94gt
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lol, it helped once I asked JohnB if I *had* to unbolt the motor mount... to get the drivers side in... I spent a few days in denial about having to do that (and my jack is fubar, it likes to bleed down right after you pump it! [Roll Eyes] )
Yeah, they sound great, and perform great too, i nabbed an o/r xpipe too! I suprised a ricer the other day and set off a car alarm with it! [Razz] thanks again! [patriot] [patriot] [patriot]

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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw

Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003  |  :
Floored
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Ok, last night we messed with the thing again, replaced the thermostat with a brand new 180 degree one, yet car still runs very hot. I sometimes swear I smell antifreese, although everyone who is with me tells me I'm crazy..

We get home tonight, car running hot, undo the radiator cap while hot and nothing happens, no boil ove nothing. Its like the fluid isn't flowing at all.. When the theromstat opens the upper hose gets hot so I'm sure its moving through there..

And we checked for signs of a blown head gasket and see nothing leading to that.. Read the manual hella times, the only suggestions it gives are pretty rare and its doubtfull that is my problem..

Should I just break down and take it to a shop??

--------------------
~Alice
..blast from the past..

Posts: 788 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Jan 2003  |  :
Hungry Hippo
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keep filling the radiator up after it cools. it should take a few days.

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05 S4 Avant(wagon)
09 C6 H/C/I

Posts: 2959 | From: east bay | Registered: Nov 2001  |  :
Copello
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Drive the piss out of it thats how i get air out of the system, is the system loosing coolant if so check your heater core that would give you an occasional coolant smell.

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91 GT
73 RS Camaro

Posts: 1309 | From: San Mateo | Registered: Jul 2002  |  :
DropTopFox
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there was recently a recall on a part for the fan on all 94-95 GT's too, I know I just had it done, you guys might want to look into this, it fixed my heating problem [patriot]

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Go out and do something for yourself today everyone, quit depending on others

-Me
http://www.CaliforniaFords.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=00001689

Posts: 4003 | From: San Bruno | Registered: Aug 2002  |  :
94gt
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what part of it? and did they do it right away?

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2020 Explorer ST
2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw

Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003  |  :
LAST302
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Try this, start the car up when cold, let it idle until it starts to warm. Have the cap off. As the motor warms up some of the coolant will spill out if it is idling. If you hold the throttle a little it wont but it does not matter. When the car reaches 180 or so hold the TB open around 2000rpms looking in the radiator. When the fan kicks on and the T-stat opens the level in the radiator should go way down and it should be flowing in the radiator which will be very visible to see. At this point if your car is over 200 or the half way point then you got probs. You may just not be bleeding it right and this will do it. Then top it off if everything is cool. **The important part is that when the stat opens the fluid in the radiator is flowing and looks as if it is boiling but is staying down in the radiator while you are holding the throttle around 2k. Try it as a test. I have other ideas but do this first so I know what I can omit.
Posts: 1147 | From: Disco Bay | Registered: Jan 2002  |  :


 
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