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Author
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Topic: 3G alternator upgrade? "stator" connector?
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
 
 
Hey guys, I'm looking into a 3G alternator upgrade using the famous RACE SYSTEMS how-to:
http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/index.htm
I know a bunch of you have done this upgrade so I have some questions...
What is the "stator"?
Where do I get a 3G stator connector?
Recomend grinding the braket with it still installed?
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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93PONY
Mr. Valve Events
Member # 60
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posted
PA performance gives you the stator connector with the alternator....& detailed instructions.
You could also pull one off a junk-yard car. It's the single wire w/a simple clip that plugs into the 3G.
I pulled the bracket off to do the grinding. 3 bolts & 5 minutes & it's off.
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www.advancedenginedevelopment.com
SCT dealer
Dynotuning
(916)715-7569
Posts: 4265 | From: Fair Oaks, CA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
I'm going with a 50K mile 3G from a '99 GT. NAPA is usually pretty good about carrying these connectors and such. If I pick'n pull this connector... what cars should I look for? Early 90's Ford's is as good as it gets at the pick n pulls here.
From what I remember and pictures it looks like the 3G stator connector has 3 wires on it like the early to mid 80's Ford's had, but my car only has 1 wire.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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89lx
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Member # 1703
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posted
Just finished this one myself. I grabbed the battery connection from a taurus/sable. Look for the biggest cable you can find. It's either 4 or 2 gauge. The wire comes with the proper connectors and the 14 gauge field wire (yellow with a white line) attached. The length is perfect. Also grab the white wire with a black line off the same car.
Once you have the items, you can disassemble the connectors by taking out the red retaining bar, prying back the clip holding the wire in, pulling out the original wire and installing the "new" wires.
The biggest headache is removing the original wiring from the harness and then taping/inserting the new wiring.
One other thing, I tapped the top alternator bolt hole and used a 1/2" tap to secure it. I didn't like the idea of having to use a nut on the bolt.
The whole thing (without removing the original wiring) probably takes about 45 minutes.
Posts: 116 | Registered: Aug 2002
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flatacid
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Member # 878
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posted
i wouldn't use that wiring plan. whats the difference if you cut the black/orange wires where they become one, or if you just solder on fish eye connectors(probably not the tech term) to both of the wires and connect them to the red post on the back of the alt. your still relying(sp) on an inadequete(sp) 10ga wire for a power supply.
i used this one. its fool proof. if anyone needs help with it, or wants pics of how i ran it, feel free to email or aim me.
www.geocities.com/smithmonte/
the guy who wrote this is smart, but if you ask him for help, he'll take it as critism. hes an asshole.
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89 mustang gt w/ t5
Posts: 573 | From: nowhere | Registered: Feb 2002
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
Thanks everyone. I'm installing my new 3G right now. I just have to grind the bracket and button everything back up.
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
It was a very straight forward upgrade. These web pages made it out to be much more complicated than it really was. There was no need to remove the backet to grind off that little chunk of metal with a dremel. I like the idea of tapping the braket bolt to make the install look more factory.
That geocities.com/smithmonte guy knows how to overkill something extremely simple! I'm sure he can write a 10 page instruction manual on how to *properly* fill your tires with air as well.
So the best thing about the upgrade? My power windows are now on nitrous!
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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89lx
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Member # 1703
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posted
That's a good article. The advantage of using the factory Taurus wiring is it has a built in fusable link for the 130 A alternator. There is no need to add the additional fuse mentioned in the article. Also you don't have to worry about the yellow/white wire. It's already attached and no splicing/terminating is needed.
Posts: 116 | Registered: Aug 2002
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Stimson
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Member # 51
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posted
89lx- I'm a factory look junky. What year/engine taurus was it?
Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000
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flatacid
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Member # 878
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
[QB]That geocities.com/smithmonte guy knows how to overkill something extremely simple! I'm sure he can write a 10 page instruction manual on how to *properly* fill your tires with air as well.[QB]
i agree.
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89 mustang gt w/ t5
Posts: 573 | From: nowhere | Registered: Feb 2002
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