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Author
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Topic: Fitech
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
 
 
So what was everyone's end result with them?
A few months ago there were a lot of people thinking of doing it or had already started.
I just did two 67 chevelles with them and both have worked flawless. (Knock on wood)
One is the 400hp with their fuel commander. The other is the 600hp kit with a tanks inc Intank.
Neither one has a fuel return per say but the one with the commander is adjusted per their instructions to 40% at idle pulse width.
I've driven the 400hp convertible 2 hrs problem free. The other one was just finished today and have only had to adjust the crank pulse width.
327 and 396 cars. The 327 is fairly stock with headers and performer cam and camel hump heads. 2 speed glide.
The 396 is pretty wild rpm intake and heads. Cam is rowdy with 8 at the most of vacuum. Hence the need for the hydraboost. Tko 600 with 3.55s
[ 2016-08-13, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: Fostang ]
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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wilit
Mustang Messiah
Member # 3367
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posted
I'm still dragging ass on getting mine installed. I finally picked up the supercharger I'm going to run with it, not I just need to get off my ass and finish buttoning up the engine.
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"If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
Posts: 4793 | From: 37.78514° North 122.40100° West | Registered: Oct 2003
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68dustin
CAFords OG
Member # 5388
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posted
I've been up and running since jan. with a blow thru setup and 10lbs of boost. I over all like it, but have had a few setbacks. My battery Is in the trunk and I pretty much have power loss issues (unit will flicker and cut out and turn back on).
I since then just wired everything straight to the battery and have had little issues. I really like how it ran up in reno, waaaaaaaaaaaay better than a carb setup.
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"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction that I can keep, and if I do begin to slide, please dear God protect me and my ride!"
Posts: 3986 | From: neverland | Registered: Feb 2005
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NEIGHT
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Member # 8741
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posted
Nice, I have a 327 in my '64 just doesn't look as nice as yours yet.
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-Savage Habits-
1992 Summer Edition
1986 Hatch- catfish killer
1964 Impala hard top
Posts: 18528 | From: EA$T $IDE REDWOOD CITY | Registered: Nov 2008
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by 68dustin:
I've been up and running since jan. with a blow thru setup and 10lbs of boost. I over all like it, but have had a few setbacks. My battery Is in the trunk and I pretty much have power loss issues (unit will flicker and cut out and turn back on).
I since then just wired everything straight to the battery and have had little issues. I really like how it ran up in reno, waaaaaaaaaaaay better than a carb setup.
Yes voltage is very important to an efi set up. Anytime I've ever had issues with conversions they can typically be tracked back to a voltage drop. Good clean power is essential. Also keeping the tach signal clean is a must. I've wrapped them in aluminum tape and at times run them opposite side of any power or ignition cables
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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68dustin
CAFords OG
Member # 5388
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Fostang:
quote:
Originally posted by 68dustin:
I've been up and running since jan. with a blow thru setup and 10lbs of boost. I over all like it, but have had a few setbacks. My battery Is in the trunk and I pretty much have power loss issues (unit will flicker and cut out and turn back on).
I since then just wired everything straight to the battery and have had little issues. I really like how it ran up in reno, waaaaaaaaaaaay better than a carb setup.
Yes voltage is very important to an efi set up. Anytime I've ever had issues with conversions they can typically be tracked back to a voltage drop. Good clean power is essential. Also keeping the tach signal clean is a must. I've wrapped them in aluminum tape and at times run them opposite side of any power or ignition cables
I don't think it's a tach signal (the whole screen inside the car will shut off and turn back on) I've grounded the unit to the battery and fire wall. This weekend I'm going to move my switched source back and see if the problem is still there. I drove it 120miles in reno and only cut off once (right when I got there)
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"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction that I can keep, and if I do begin to slide, please dear God protect me and my ride!"
Posts: 3986 | From: neverland | Registered: Feb 2005
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
Have you tried messing with the connector unit? Electric grease in the plugs. Has battery been tested for dead cells that may be spiking current or shorting out? Also 1 wire alternator? Or seperate regulator? 1 wires cause some wierd voltage issues at times because of the integrated excitor. Is it at low Rpms only?
How is the power wire ran from rear to front? Is there a solenoid along the way? What's the voltage readings at the battery and at the feed source up front? Got a way to check for amp loads?
Does the unit cut off even without the handheld connected?
[ 2016-08-15, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: Fostang ]
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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68dustin
CAFords OG
Member # 5388
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posted
HMMMM.. so many questions lol..
-I've cleaned all my grounds and used electric grease. Also checked all fi-tech connectors (didn't put electric grease in them though)
-I do have a one wire alternator with the stock solenoid of a 68 mustang.
-My voltage was always in the high 13's when it crashed.
-I've never had the hand held unplugged and it cut out, but really haven't tried that.
- The unit does it at all different rpm's, if I'm at a light the car will shut off. I can then start it right back up. When I'm doing 20+ miles an hour it happens so fast the car will come back on.
-I've tried different battery's
-Right now I'm not using anything else but the efi unit (no fan controls, timing controls ect.)
[ 2016-08-15, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: 68dustin ]
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"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction that I can keep, and if I do begin to slide, please dear God protect me and my ride!"
Posts: 3986 | From: neverland | Registered: Feb 2005
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
I would check voltage readings at various locations specifically where you are getting the power for the unit.
While driving etc. I've had a fast unit cut out like yours and it was the fact when the fan would kick on the voltage would drop below 12.5 and then spike back up. The unit thought it was time to shut the engine off and would cut fuel. Cured it by running another power cable from alternator to battery directly. Voltage increased to constant 13.5 and would not dip with fan kicking on.
However being the unit screen flickers it's either the main power wire short or the system itself has an internal problem. I take it you have grounded one of the carb studs to the chassis.
Also is this the newer style unit 12 gauge power cable or the original with 16 gauge power wire? New style has a gray connector for power and fuel pump. You can see it top left on the red Chevelle pic. By the distributor.
[ 2016-08-15, 02:59 PM: Message edited by: Fostang ]
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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68dustin
CAFords OG
Member # 5388
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posted
not sure on the power for the unit, I cant remember. I can look tonight, but I think I have a orange wire to fuel pump, red wire to constant power and white to switched power.
I might need to run a wire from the alternator to the trunk battery.
what is weird... like I said I took it to hot august nights and it seemed to get a lot better like it was learning the voltage drops.
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"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction that I can keep, and if I do begin to slide, please dear God protect me and my ride!"
Posts: 3986 | From: neverland | Registered: Feb 2005
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89_Fakesnake
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Member # 1253
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posted
Order my kit early July...and I'm still waiting for delivery. Waited 3 weeks then called to see whats up and was informed that parts are on back-order for the fuel kit and I'm looking at about a 2 month wait...
Their customer service SUCKS so hopefully I don't have to call back to deal with any of them during my install...
BTW I ordered the 600hp satin black unit with in-tank fuel kit.
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1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (for sale)
1972 F100
2007 GSXR 1000
Posts: 480 | From: Sacramento, CA | Registered: May 2002
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Fostang
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Member # 3752
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posted
Yea I waited about 3 months per kit. No big deal as I have other projects on board. Aside from that their customer service was very receptive when I called.
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67' Fastback TT 408
67' Camaro Lsx
64' Corvette Fuelie
57' Chevy Bel Air Lsx
68’ Pony Convertible
66’ Pony Coupe
Posts: 3011 | From: Stockton/Danville | Registered: Nov 2003
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89_Fakesnake
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Member # 1253
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Fostang:
Yea I waited about 3 months per kit. No big deal as I have other projects on board. Aside from that their customer service was very receptive when I called.
Just got an email that my kit is shipping today...WHOOT WHOOT
I'm going to punt this Edelbrock carb off the edge of a cliff HAHA
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1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (for sale)
1972 F100
2007 GSXR 1000
Posts: 480 | From: Sacramento, CA | Registered: May 2002
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