This is topic Rear Fuel line help in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by tonkaboyrich496 (Member # 9877) on :
 
got a 87 coupe and one of my rear fuel line has a hole in it from being burned on the exhaust. noticed it when i filled my tank up and it was empty the very next day. the lines that's messed up comes from the fuel filter and goes to the top of the tank. auto zone/napa/sp automotive don't carry it. didnt have time to hit vic hubbards yet. i have ben told its a dealer item but ford no longer makes them. anyone have a clue where i can find one asap? im in oakland BTW
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Posted by 83notcher (Member # 12608) on :
 
Just get high psi fuel Line from napa, cut the piece of line that is burnt and hose clamp the new hose on as a repair.
 
Posted by Greasy (Member # 5258) on :
 
Try Pick 'n Pull, should be fairly easy to obtain and keep everything factory.
 
Posted by tonkaboyrich496 (Member # 9877) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 83notcher:
Just get high psi fuel Line from napa, cut the piece of line that is burnt and hose clamp the new hose on as a repair.

Was trying to avoid this but I may have to.
 
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Here is what we do. Carefully cut the poli line off the fittings and use 5/16 fuel line marked EFI. You can then use the fittings with the BARBS that will hold properly. If ypu use just the line sectiomed with a piece of Flex hose it cam come off and cause a fire. I do tuns of mustangs and this works. I also have a master line repair kit and can correctly splice POLI LINE.

Here is one of my mustang line and filter relocation modifications' You can get the filter snap connectors at NAPA. But you need the Explorer filter to use them. Note the 2 self adjusting spring clamps on each connection. And never use a worm type clamp. That is a big NO NO!!!! AND NEVER scab in a flex hose on a POLI LINE that is a disaster waiting to happen DO NOT DO THAT. You need bubbles or barbs to connect any flex line to anything. Be fore warned!!!

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Here is a hard line that i made a bubble on to correctly install a flex line. NEVER USE A STRAIGHT LINE CONNECTED TO A FLEX ON ANYTHING. Especially FUEL!!!

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[ 2013-09-29, 06:46 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
i like what above guy did except those dam spring clamps. u can cut the plastic hose off the origanal fitting so u dont have to Frankenstein filters or fittings. the ori fitting is barbed, use furl injected clamp, its like a bolt and nut on a 360 surrounded clamp. or just buy the ori hose and next time u install it , tuck it behind teh fuel tank strap, well never be burned again, i have that hose as well for 20 bucks. 707 297 0868 if u want it.
 
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
Spring clamps are the only thing we use. You can use the captured clamps but they have a nasty habit of loosening. Spring clamps automatically tighten up and are tried and true.
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
my experience with the spring clamps is every time u use them they get weaker and weaker or just dont hold that tight,more familiar with them on radiator hoses from factory cars,the only time i have seen a spring clamp on a factory car is on the return line where the presure is almost nothing if it is a presure at all. i can squeeze those clamps together by just my fingers, and have only seen them hold gd the first time there used. i have yet to see the clamp i mentioned come loose yet, not one once. but to each there own. they do use fuel injected clamps for a reason bein a better holding clamp where the fuel pressures are higher than the carb fuel pressures where fuel pressure peaks at 7 pounds where your spring clamps are only used even by dealerships. the nipple end or barbed end is a must if u use those spring clamps because they will most def slip off, they do not hold up to par on a fuel injected system.
 
Posted by Tom Renzo (Member # 13165) on :
 
I dont know but i have hundreds of them rolling on the roads up north here. Also i have changed tuns of pumps that are factory installed with PLASTIC gear clamps. I am willing to bet spring clamps do a better job than a clamp that loosed tension and needs retightening. I do GT3 Porsche race cars and never had a leak with Spring clamps. I can't say that for a worm clamp. Just my experience. Thanks

[ 2013-09-30, 03:10 AM: Message edited by: Tom Renzo ]
 




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