This is topic blew my head gasket in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
What's a good gasket for aluminum heads just blew my heads less than 2 months need better gaskets this time around with these aluminum heads
 
Posted by SwEeT 03 Gt (Member # 10283) on :
 
did you resurface the heads after you blew em the first time? and did you torque em down in the right sequence?
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
I resurfaced the heads before I put them on my new block yes I torqued them down I had some felpro gaskets they were for aluminum heads I bought from Vic Hubbard I'm not sure if those gaskets wasn't good enough for my set up
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
What is the proper torque spec and sequence for heads???
 
Posted by Adam5.0 (Member # 6995) on :
 
Gaskets rarely fail on their own. You might have a issue some where else. What's the setup?
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
how u torque them, then ask how to? lol sorry man but i think there lies the problem.

knock on wood i haven't had a set of head gaskets let go i think ever! the block has to be super cleaned, head surface super clean! not sanded on to make shiny cause this will cause low spots that wont seal. clean or chase the threads in all the head bolt holes, as well as clean all the thread on the head bolts, then run them in by hand to check there not hanging up on anything, do not use a tap and die set to clean your head bolts or holes!!! there is a thread chaser that is used specifically for this.

i apply some assembly grease what ever brand or 30 weight oil under the head of the head bolt,or on both sides of the washer if its a arp bolt or stud, and some on the threads.

just make sure block is clean and don't dump the dirt and ole gaskets material back into the motor as your scraping it clean. i use a razor blade. then a rag sprayed with carb or brake clean to wipe clean. heads better be strait and not brand new off the next guys car. new and strait out the machine shop is what i mean. follow the torque sequence correctly. some people or books say use 3 torque steps. like first step might be 20 , second might be 40, third might be the finanle 62 or 72 . what ever it is im just guessing off my head right now. but regardless i go every 10 pounds. for instance if the finale torque is 72 , i torque start at 10, second torque is 20, third is 30. forth is 40, 5th tourqe step is 50, etc get it? gd luck.

head gaskets should be comparable for your aluminum heads as well of course. but these steps have let me use the basic cost effective fel pro gaskets on all or most of my strret cars for my self and customers with no failures.

[ October 17, 2012, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Duncan Motors ]
 
Posted by moeofit32 (Member # 10393) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
how u torque them, then ask how to? lol sorry man but i think there lies the problem.

knock on wood i haven't had a set of head gaskets let go i think ever! the block has to be super cleaned, head surface super clean! not sanded on to make shiny cause this will cause low spots that wont seal. clean or chase the threads in all the head bolt holes, as well as clean all the thread on the head bolts, then run them in by hand to check there not hanging up on anything, do not use a tap and die set to clean your head bolts or holes!!! there is a thread chaser that is used specifically for this.

i apply some assembly grease what ever brand or 30 weight oil under the head of the head bolt,or on both sides of the washer if its a arp bolt or stud, and some on the threads.

just make sure block is clean and don't dump the dirt and ole gaskets material back into the motor as your scraping it clean. i use a razor blade. then a rag sprayed with carb or brake clean to wipe clean. heads better be strait and not brand new off the next guys car. new and strait out the machine shop is what i mean. follow the torque sequence correctly. some people or books say use 3 torque steps. like first step might be 20 , second might be 40, third might be the finanle 62 or 72 . what ever it is im just guessing off my head right now. but regardless i go every 10 pounds. for instance if the finale torque is 72 , i torque start at 10, second torque is 20, third is 30. forth is 40, 5th tourqe step is 50, etc get it? gd luck.

head gaskets should be comparable for your aluminum heads as well of course. but these steps have let me use the basic cost effective fel pro gaskets on all or most of my strret cars for my self and customers with no failures.

+1 u should have the heads milled at the local machine shop to insure that the surface is legit
 
Posted by SETONKILL (Member # 7277) on :
 
blower set up? an what is the part number on the head gaskets?
 
Posted by turbo50 (Member # 6700) on :
 
9333-pt1 and I switch heads around like its goin out of style and roloc the deck never had an issue on any motor.
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
I have a 306 flat top pistons aluminum elderbrock heads 1.6 RR arp head bolts elderbrock rpm 2 upper and lower 70 mm throttle body had the heads resurfaced at the machine shop in Hayward had the motor in for 2 months now I had coolant comeing out my exuast and spitting collect out my right tail pipe
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
Don't remember the part number for the head gaskets
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
Just asking on the packaging the head gaskets came with a paper that had the torque spec and I followed those directions and I don't understand why I have this problem
 
Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :
 
What head bolts are you using? Also, the part number of the head gaskets would help your posting tremendously.
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
I forgot what the part number of the head gaskets ima find out and I have arp head bolts
 
Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :
 
Try to find out the part number of your ARP bolts as well. Are you using the washers as well as the insert reducers?
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
Yes I'm using the washers
 
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on :
 
if u got aluminum heads, most are drilled for 1/2 bolts . u will need stepped reducer washers to center your smaller head bolts in the heads.
 
Posted by nitrous_bob (Member # 77) on :
 
i REALLY like the felpro "wire loc" #2006 i think ??? something X006 tho

you need to machine the grooves in the heads only

should be maybe $25/head
 
Posted by eastoaklandss (Member # 8011) on :
 
Took my heads off and I had a blown head gasket on my passenger side head I'm going MLS gasket and now I found out that my cylinder 3 wasn't firing still looks new didn't feel a power loss hopefully it's just a bad spark plug or wire but I will put it all back together and do a compression check to make shore everything is good but I ran into a another thing now my pushrods show a lot of wear I would post pics but can't from my iPad if some one can help me post pics I can show you guys to give you a better picture of what's going on thanks you guys for the help and ima get some Chromoly pushrods just watch ones do I get there's a lot of different sizes because I was running the stock pushrods thanks guys for the help
 
Posted by Secnd2nun64 (Member # 1431) on :
 
MLS gaskets are a good idea. They will help with the heat cycles. I'd also spray them with with a light coat of copper. Not sure what heads you have but my trickflows required chrome-moly push rods. You need to measure for the correct length before ordering. trickflow has instructions on how to measure the distance. you'll need an adjustable push rod. either buy one or make one. I had made my own. (cut an old one, insert threaded stock with some nuts to adjust it)
 




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