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Originally posted by Duncan Motors:
how u torque them, then ask how to? lol sorry man but i think there lies the problem.

knock on wood i haven't had a set of head gaskets let go i think ever! the block has to be super cleaned, head surface super clean! not sanded on to make shiny cause this will cause low spots that wont seal. clean or chase the threads in all the head bolt holes, as well as clean all the thread on the head bolts, then run them in by hand to check there not hanging up on anything, do not use a tap and die set to clean your head bolts or holes!!! there is a thread chaser that is used specifically for this.

i apply some assembly grease what ever brand or 30 weight oil under the head of the head bolt,or on both sides of the washer if its a arp bolt or stud, and some on the threads.

just make sure block is clean and don't dump the dirt and ole gaskets material back into the motor as your scraping it clean. i use a razor blade. then a rag sprayed with carb or brake clean to wipe clean. heads better be strait and not brand new off the next guys car. new and strait out the machine shop is what i mean. follow the torque sequence correctly. some people or books say use 3 torque steps. like first step might be 20 , second might be 40, third might be the finanle 62 or 72 . what ever it is im just guessing off my head right now. but regardless i go every 10 pounds. for instance if the finale torque is 72 , i torque start at 10, second torque is 20, third is 30. forth is 40, 5th tourqe step is 50, etc get it? gd luck.

head gaskets should be comparable for your aluminum heads as well of course. but these steps have let me use the basic cost effective fel pro gaskets on all or most of my strret cars for my self and customers with no failures.

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