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Author
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Topic: mig flux for engine bay
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REDLIGHTING
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Member # 11296
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posted
 
 
Any tips on welding engine bay
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1992 coupe YSI, DART,
225 TFS HIGH PORTS
04 mystichrome convertible
2006 GMC sierra slt crew
Posts: 441 | From: sac | Registered: Sep 2011
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ALMOST STOCK
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Member # 10085
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posted
I pulled the engine.
Clean and degrease the entire engine bay.
Take a wire wheel on an electric drill and clean all the old paint off around near the hole you’re going to weld up. And since I was hiding my wires in the fenders I removed the splash shields which made it easier to trace the hole onto the new metal.
Get yourself some 20 gauge metal to make patch pieces with. Make the patch pieces just slightly smaller as the same diameter of the hole your weld up. Weld the patch piece into place. Weld and fill any hole larger than a dime in that manner (dime size and smaller hole you can weld closed by making a few passes to fill those small holes).
To make the patch piece for the holes I bought some 6” X 6” 20 ga metal and placed them on the backside of the fender and traced the hole onto the metal with a sharpie and the took a saber saw and cut the line out left by the sharpie which gave me that 1/16” all the way around to fill with weld between the new metal patch piece and the inner fender. I kept using what was left of the metal to do smaller hole until there was nothing left of that piece. I believe it took 4 pieces of the 6” X 6” metal to fill all the holes. For the frame rails front and rear I bought 2 pieces 24” x 4”.
I painted the underside of the frame rail with Red Oxide Primer before I welded them into place in hopes of stopping any rust since the frame rail is not somewhat closed off.
Posts: 94 | From: Cameron Park, Calif | Registered: Jun 2010
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REDLIGHTING
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Member # 11296
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posted
Koo thx
What about burning holes any tips on how not to or settings
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1992 coupe YSI, DART,
225 TFS HIGH PORTS
04 mystichrome convertible
2006 GMC sierra slt crew
Posts: 441 | From: sac | Registered: Sep 2011
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ALMOST STOCK
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Member # 10085
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posted
I played with the setting but never got where I could weld a whole patch at one time.
The only way I could stop from burning holes through the 20 ga metal was to weld only part of the patch and then move to another patch and weld on it a little, that way the metal on the other patch could cool down some.
Posts: 94 | From: Cameron Park, Calif | Registered: Jun 2010
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Stang66
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Member # 10504
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you'll be good with stitch welds since its cosmetic and not structural, plus you don't want to distort metal with the extra heat when running a bead ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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1966 Ford Mustang
1990 Notchback
1975 Pontiac Trans Am 400ci
Posts: 754 | From: Stockton | Registered: Dec 2010
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Murder mach
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Member # 10590
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you NEVER do a full weld on sheet metal.ALWAY do tacks seperating them as far as possible otherwise you can warp the whole panel. use a magnet on the panel your welding,but you cant weld too close to the magnet,it will screw up the weld. settings are all differrnt for diff welders and diff ppl.
Posts: 860 | From: stockton area | Registered: Jan 2011
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