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Author
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Topic: STARTER STICKS WHILE ON
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5.0 CGS
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Member # 9567
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posted
 
 
SAME POSTING AS BEFORE THEN AGAIN SAME PROBLEM AS BEFORE MY 91 AUTO MUSTANG KEEPS STICKIN THE STARTER WHEN I CRANK AND ITS ON THE WEIRD THING THO IS WHEN I JUMP START IT BY THE STARTER SOLENOID IT STARTS FINE AND DOESNT STICK SO FOR RIGHT IM STARTING IT THROUGH SOLENOID BUT I NEED TO FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM
CAN ANY ONE GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT MAYBE SOMEONE HAS BEEN THRU THE SAME PROB.
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ADVICE
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TEAM CGS
Posts: 104 | From: stockton | Registered: Nov 2009
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Stan G
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Member # 6226
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posted
Just had the same problem and took my solenoid apart .
I found the relay inside the solenoid was sticking.
Napa had a replacement solenoid for ~ 20 .
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1985 RX-7, 347/T-5 , T/F T/W heads, typhoon intake, Tfs2 cam, pulleys, 2500 lbs .
3.63 rear gears , Megasquirt
Posts: 105 | From: Sun Coast , Florida | Registered: Nov 2005
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5.0 CGS
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Member # 9567
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posted
i dont kno bro because i replaced that too and didnt seem to work or do you think maybe the brand has to do with it maybe non factory solenoids have weaker relays
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TEAM CGS
Posts: 104 | From: stockton | Registered: Nov 2009
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Stan G
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Member # 6226
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posted
Just saw your other post... so you replaced the solenoid already..
Only thing you didn't replace was the battery and ground wires.
weak cables causes excess current and that can do weird stuff.
check if there is voltage on the solenoid magnet ./ starter lead ( the smaller wire ) with the ignition in the on position .
(I cant remember if it turns on by grounding or +12v)
[ June 24, 2010, 12:05 AM: Message edited by: Stan G ]
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1985 RX-7, 347/T-5 , T/F T/W heads, typhoon intake, Tfs2 cam, pulleys, 2500 lbs .
3.63 rear gears , Megasquirt
Posts: 105 | From: Sun Coast , Florida | Registered: Nov 2005
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5.0 CGS
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Member # 9567
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posted
well battery is new duralast but havent check ground wires so ill give a check tho
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TEAM CGS
Posts: 104 | From: stockton | Registered: Nov 2009
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SteveL
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Member # 1241
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posted
Find a voltmeter and a friend.
If you have a stock starter: Remove the solenoid wire from the starter solenoid (the wire on the thin lug). Measure the voltage on wire using the voltmeter. It should be 0 volts. Have a friend turn the ignition key to the crank position and hold it there. The engine will not crank because the wire is disconnected from the solenoid. Measure the voltage. It should be ~12 volts. Have him release the key from the start position. The wire should go back to 0 volts. Try it a few times. If it works reliably, more likely the starter is the problem. Maybe the bendix, the internal part that pulls the starter gear back away from the flywheel is getting stuck.
If you still see 12 volts even after releasing the ignition key from the crank position, then it's a wiring problem between the ignition key and the starter solenoid.
If you don't have a voltmeter: Leave the solenoid wire that connects to the thin lug on the solenoid (ie don't disconnect it). Disconnect the heavy gauge wire on the starter solenoid that goes to the starter. Try turning the ignition key to the start position. You should hear the solenoid click in when the key is held in the start position and click off immediately after you release the key.
If you have one of those mini-starters, it's probably wired wrong.
Posts: 578 | From: San Jose, CA | Registered: May 2002
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5.0 CGS
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Member # 9567
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posted
well i dont think it is my starter beacause i have another 5.0 and i changed the other 5.0s starter to the auto one and it still did the same thing. but i think youre right on the wiring or somewhere between ignition switch and solenoid because when i jump start from solenoid the starter dont stick but when i do it from switch it sticks and already replaced the igition cylinder so somewhere after that its stickting
Posts: 104 | From: stockton | Registered: Nov 2009
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