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Author
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Topic: 1998 Cobra Engine
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
 
 
Ok, I took out the Cobra Engine out of my car, and mounted it on a stand and flipped it over. I took off the oil pan and now I dont know what to look for haha.
FYI: This engine was in my 97GT, I did a post a while back on it, couldnt find it, so I have to start a new thread. A while back, I drove the car as a commuter from work and home for about 6 months. When I got off work one morning, I fired her up, it was fine, drove down the driveway out of the lot, and BAM!...the engine started rocking back and forth side to side, and it was almost going to stall but still had a little life in it, it idled very roughly, actually had just enough power for me to reverse it while pumping the throttle, back in to a parking spot, where it sat from almost 4 months. I just had it towed home last week and now im working on it slowly. When it was barely running, I heard a knocking sound coming from inside the engine somehwere.
So now I need some assistance from you professionals out there, to give me some advice and walk me through on what to look for.
Also I drained the oil and there was barely any in the pan (oops) and it was dark as chocolate (like the chocolate river in Willy Wonka), and it was new when I poured the oil in when I did the swap, and I put about only about3,500 miles. Ok, so what do i do now? ![[Frown]](frown.gif) ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
What weight of oil were you using?
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
10-30
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
10w30 is too much for that setup. 5w20 or 30 is what they need. The higher viscosity oil can't flow as easily through the heads, so it sits longer in them...leaking down valve guides...burning in cylinders. Also, it will be sucked into the intake through the PCV system, as it closer to the valve being in the head. I'm willing to bet your IMRC's are coated in burnt oil, your lower intake is full of oil, and the back of the throttle body has oil on it as well. This is where all the oil went.
As for what to look for...check the #6,7, and 8 rods. One of them has possibly has a spun rod bearing.
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Do i take off the end caps to check the bearing or is there another way to determine that? What else would I have to check/replace before I can place the engine back in and hopefully it will fire up and be my daily driver again...
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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turbo50
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Member # 6700
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posted
#7 rod is the failure I have seen more commonly.
Try moving the rods side to side on the journal until you find some that wont move a tiny bit and that is probably your knock.
Look for discolored metal.
Once, if, you find either of those pull the cap off.
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.........when was the last time YOU built something with YOUR own hands?
I offer quality sidework at reasonable prices. PM ME
Posts: 7606 | From: Discovery Bay, California | Registered: Apr 2006
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asskickn88
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Member # 4957
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posted
If you spun a bearing then your not going to just throw a new one in and keep on driving. The crank will be scored up bad and the rod too will have damage. It sounds like something else went wrong though, I've heard plenty of engines run with a rod knock and not run bad.
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Three 540 Bimmers and a 5.0 Explorer.... got a Ford back in the stable!
It's time for the country to do what Obama's own father did.
Abandon him.
Posts: 6069 | From: Rocklin, Ca | Registered: Oct 2004
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Ok cool, thanks. I'll take a look and and see what I find. So if the crank is scored can I get it worked or do i have to replace that thing? Or is that up to a shop depending on the damage? Would i be better off getting new rods, pistons, crank, etc? I might just take that block from you john haha
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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92stangLX
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Member # 3252
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by autumnstang97:
Ok cool, thanks. I'll take a look and and see what I find. So if the crank is scored can I get it worked or do i have to replace that thing? Or is that up to a shop depending on the damage? Would i be better off getting new rods, pistons, crank, etc? I might just take that block from you john haha
If it is the type of damage that is described above then you will need to have the whole motor disassembled, checked, and have any bad parts replaced... so bascially an entire rebuild.
If you are looking to get outa this one cheap then buy a used, good running motor. Otherwise have your motor rebuilt.
Posts: 5302 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Sep 2003
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Whats the price range for a rebuild on these kinds of engines? Im not looking to make a race car...
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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LSFairmont
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Member # 6001
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posted
buy JOHNB'S fully forged block for 2k
Posts: 3653 | From: the land of the lost | Registered: Sep 2005
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Hey JohnB, that forged block is blower ready?
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
Sure is.
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Ok so JohnB is gonna hook me up with that block. Now whats a good cam for these engines? Something that makes good power, smog legal and not ridiculously priced where I have to cut off my leg...Also im looking for a good exhaust header, I want to go with bassani since im running a full bassani exhaust, but whats this news about people failing smog visuals...thnx guys...i'll get pix up of this project once it gets cleaned up...
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
stock cams are fine until you are looking at over 500hp.
shorty headers aren't worth the $$$ over the stock manifolds, better to spend that money on fuel system parts if you want to boost it. Shorty's are the only headers available that have a CARB # to pass visual smog, and that requires the stock 4 cat midpipe too.
longtubes are where the power is, but they would never pass an actual visual smog check. Impossible to see the headers from the top, but if they look under the car looking for the factory cats and see the collectors on the long tubes and only 2 cats...that's it, failed.
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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asskickn88
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Member # 4957
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by autumnstang97:
Now whats a good cam for these engines? Something that makes good power, smog legal and not ridiculously priced where I have to cut off my leg.
Your not going to find a good set of cams that aren't expensive. You might find a set used from somewhere but expect to pay in the $700+ range, at least that's what I found when looking for a set. You gotta think, its not just one cam like an OHV motor so your buying 4 cams that cost well over $1K new.
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Three 540 Bimmers and a 5.0 Explorer.... got a Ford back in the stable!
It's time for the country to do what Obama's own father did.
Abandon him.
Posts: 6069 | From: Rocklin, Ca | Registered: Oct 2004
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
Ford GT cams are brand new, all day long, for around $450 a set.
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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FoX GT
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Member # 4587
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by JohnB:
Ford GT cams are brand new, all day long, for around $450 a set.
I've got them in my car, woot!
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- AED -
03 Cobra 10th anni 3.4 Whipple 9.47@141
2012 Mustang GT 10.98@125
2015 Mustang GT
Bring what you got and hope its enough!
Posts: 1955 | From: East bay | Registered: Jun 2004
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Would 03/04 Cobra valves and springs fit on a 96-98 Cobra Cyclinder head? I found a new set on MMR and i want to have the heads rebuilt before i put them on the new block...wheres a good place to port these heads anyway? and should the lower intake be ported too.
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by autumnstang97:
Would 03/04 Cobra valves and springs fit on a 96-98 Cobra Cylinder head? I found a new set on MMR and i want to have the heads rebuilt before i put them on the new block...wheres a good place to port these heads anyway? and should the lower intake be ported too.
if these heads were on the engine that ran out of oil you better have the heads gone through
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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NonOpSlow2V
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Member # 6111
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posted
Ok, so the heads are getting sent out next week.
So im working on the the block, and I put on brand new UPR Motor mounts, and I tightend the bolts and the mount still moves? Do i have to get shorter bolts? its like the bolt bottoms out and doesnt completely tighten the mounts. I resued the bolts off the factory mount that was on the aluminum block...this one is JohnB's new one that i bought. Any Advice?
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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BIGBALLFACTOR
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Member # 7277
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by autumnstang97:
Ok, so the heads are getting sent out next week.
So im working on the the block, and I put on brand new UPR Motor mounts, and I tightend the bolts and the mount still moves? Do i have to get shorter bolts? its like the bolt bottoms out and doesnt completely tighten the mounts. I resued the bolts off the factory mount that was on the aluminum block...this one is JohnB's new one that i bought. Any Advice?
add washer to the bolts an use locking ones
[ December 22, 2009, 05:05 AM: Message edited by: fasthatch ]
Posts: 6908 | From: okc | Registered: Dec 2006
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BOSNA
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Member # 246
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posted
Need more info on JOHNB'S #
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98 Cobra
97 GT Saleen
Posts: 74 | From: san jose | Registered: Apr 2001
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by fasthatch:
quote:
Originally posted by autumnstang97:
Ok, so the heads are getting sent out next week.
So im working on the the block, and I put on brand new UPR Motor mounts, and I tightend the bolts and the mount still moves? Do i have to get shorter bolts? its like the bolt bottoms out and doesnt completely tighten the mounts. I resued the bolts off the factory mount that was on the aluminum block...this one is JohnB's new one that i bought. Any Advice?
add washer to the bolts an use locking ones
+1. As stated, use flat washers and a lock washer. Don't forget the coolant plugs either. ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Bosna, feel free to shoot me a PM if you've got a question.
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1965 Shelby Cobra
1993 Cobra
2012 F150 Raptor
2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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NonOpSlow2V
¯
Member # 6111
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posted
thats what i was gonna do but i had to make sure it was ok...so thanks for the response guys...and I got the coolant plugs on and ready to go...haha thanks john
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1997 Autumn Orange GT vert
1996 Mystic Cobra
2005 95ci Harley Road King
2011 F150 Raptor
Posts: 2139 | From: San Francisco | Registered: Oct 2005
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