T O P I C R E V I E W
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
I bought an engine off someone, took it apart and discovered that it had a blown headgasket, and had been sitting for some time. some of the cylinders have rust on the walls, as well as all kinds of gunk. I sprayed them down with WD40 to soak til tomorrow. My question is, if I took it to a shop and had it bored .030 over, do you think it would take care of the rust? it's not just a light surface rust like on bare metal just sitting out..of course I wouldn't know for sure without an actual machinist looking at it, but I just want to know if the cylinder walls can be saved or if I should go whoop some ass cuz I was told the engine was running when it was pulled
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89nitrous stang
Member # 8352
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posted
it probly can be fixed but you should ask for the money to fix it or kick some ass
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
I was going to overbore it anyways so if it works then oh well. but if it doesn't work, then I spent $250 on a big ugly paperweight and THEN we have problems
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
      
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Blind
Member # 3052
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posted
soak the crap out of it with pb blaster, brake cleaner, wd-40, and rotate it a few time, see how it cleans up.
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
what size is the bolt keeping the balancer on the crank? I don't have a socket big enough so I've gotta go buy one.
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street_illegal_stang
Member # 1554
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posted
cheap fix would be disassemble it while taking note where everything goes back on,wd-40 the hell out of it then ball hone it out bout 20 times. should work okay. depending on if theres major pitting in the cylinder walls..you can check by using scotch brite with wd-40 . otherwise save up for a cheap .030 rebuild.
I think the bolt is 30/31" or slightly smaller. i remember being able to pull it off w/ a old worn 30/31" socket. Im not 100% on the exact size
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
no need to save, I've got a few grand from my bike accident settlement I was going to get a rebuild kit from Summit, pistons, rings, bearings etc. not gonna be making a ton of power cuz I gotta put some $ into the rest of the car, but im thinkin 300-350 would be decent and easily made...once I'm able to get it all taken apart I'm gonna take the block to be hot tanked and bored/honed, probably get the crank turned too cuz the bearings are fucked too...some major scoring and gouges on some of them
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
Well I got it down to the block. Finally got the pistons out, and hit it with a hone. the stones made the walls smoother, but theres still a little bit of roughness. it seems (in my ignorant view) it should be able to be taken care of with an overbore. I checked with a micrometer and the bore are the stock 4". I'll take the block and crank to the shop probably monday to get bored n turned.
anyone have a ballpark on how much machine work will be? I'm getting the block bored n honed, crank main and rod journals turned probably .010 over, cam bearings and freeze plugs replaced. oh and I want to hot tank the block as well. also, how much does milling the block usually run? to get the head mating surface flat, as well as bump up CR a tiny bit. if I get a new set of pistons, does the rotating assembly have to be balanced? can I replace the pistons with the nasty paperweights that are currently on the rods, or should I get the shop to do it? should I get the rod bolts replaced with ARP bolts, as I've seen done before?
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z pyro
Member # 3745
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posted
anyone?
more questions...I'm probably going to get an edelbrock 1406 carb, and weiand action+ intake when I get the engine done. I'll also probably find some cheap heads, if I can't find any in my price range I'll have to stick with stockers. I'm going to need a new cam cuz the stock one has pits on the lobes where the lifters were sitting (need to replace the lifters too). What cam should I get? I don't need or want all-out power, so getting $2000 aluminum heads and a radical cam is unnecessary. I'll have the stock C4 and rear end for now. I just want something a little hotter than stock, and not too expensive since I need to resto the interior of the car as well
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dpracingdan
Member # 5778
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posted
I got block you can have for free. I took it all apart, had it boiled and cleaned out in preparation of building my own, then Ford Racing sponsored me 2 engines. The block has been sitting at the machine shop ever since (2 years?), but should definately be cleaner than yours. Let me know if you're interested.
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BlowN67
Member # 4229
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posted
how much u looking to spend o nthis rebuild..
there has been a couple good 306 notors on the board for under 1k. so figure the amount u think ur going to put into this one an go from there.
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