This is topic Pro's and con's of meth injection in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by 89Rodknocker (Member # 2951) on :
 
Does anybody know of any and if anyone's running it what do you think.
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
I have run it for years and had alot of luck with it. There is tons of info on it on the Web. it was first used in planes in world war 2(pretty sure that was the one) the cons my pump had a intermitant problem last summer and before I could get it fixed .I ovaled a set of expensive head gaskets. I didn't even let it ping as soon as I heard it I shut it down.
 
Posted by 92stangLX (Member # 3252) on :
 
I have not had any personal experience with it... but I know it would suck to have it run dry at full boost [Smile]
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
I have never had it run dry in over 3 years of having one. I had a pump failure, that did suck but I am going to run it again because when you get the timming all in and the tune is right, It gives a big boost in HP on a pump gass setup.
 
Posted by purple hatch (Member # 6131) on :
 
I ran it it worked out great.I would run it again. [patriot]
 
Posted by 89Rodknocker (Member # 2951) on :
 
I heard it can cause wear in parts and like pitting of the cyl heads. and due to the corrosive nature of meth. eat away at stuff.
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
not at all, I have my heads off and they look just as good as they have always looked. Same heads the entire time with the meth-injection kit. It is a vapor buy the time it hits the heads anyhow.
 
Posted by kingmoochr (Member # 5834) on :
 
methanol 100% is corrosive if allowed to sit in basically anything. i work with sprint cars that run straight methanol as a fuel. the an fittings take a beating over time, but theres no evidence on anything else that you arent using gasoline, other than the way the meth mixes with oil. the meth mix used in injection kits is basically the same as windshield washer fluid, and people rarely have problems with their washer fluid eating its way through anything. that being said, i had some, and blew my motor putting it into peak torque going up a hill on a freeway. my tune was probably mostly to blame, but just like any mod, its yet another area to create a problem. i would be more hesitant to use it on a street car because its much more difficult to tune for partial load jumps and many other things that arent as basic as slamming the throttle from a stop.

[ December 05, 2007, 02:54 AM: Message edited by: kingmoochr ]
 
Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
Pros:
Add more timing for more power
VERY cheap in the $/HP range
Can run pump gas setup with big boost = big power
Lower intake temps during hot weather (finicky turbo setups in the summer, etc)

Cons:
You run dry = blown HG, major detonation, scorched internals, etc
Can clog nozzles with cheap kits or debris in tank
Another system to maintain for your car
More frequent oil changes are needed

And corrosion only happens when ETHANOL is used, but this should not occur since METHANOL is what we are talking about here. In fact, a water-based injection system actually "cleans" the residue oil-based fuel engines leave inside the internals.
 
Posted by 89Rodknocker (Member # 2951) on :
 
Is anybody running it on a street car with no issues. I have the anderson kit but haven't installed it yet.
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
you do not need more frequent oil changes with a water meth kit lol. now thats funny. You are only using this kit above about 4 psi of injection. It injects a small amount. The only issue i saw with extended street use was I lost a couple of IAC motors. because of the alch. I mentioned I had a prob withmy kit. I probably should have caught it. it is like anything else on a HP car you have to check kit operations every so often. It had been awhile since I checked mine because it always worked so good.
 
Posted by 73beast351c (Member # 5397) on :
 
haha, I saw this and was like "WTF?".

 -
 
Posted by slowback67 (Member # 6348) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 73beast351c:
haha, I saw this and was like "WTF?".

 -

LOL!!!!!!
 
Posted by kingmoochr (Member # 5834) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 88DroptopGT:


And corrosion only happens when ETHANOL is used, but this should not occur since METHANOL is what we are talking about here. In fact, a water-based injection system actually "cleans" the residue oil-based fuel engines leave inside the internals.

methanol is highly corrosive. i can send you some now-junk alum fittings from the methanol powered sprint car at the shop if you need proof.
 
Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :
 
got any headers lying around from those sprint cars, need some spreadport stuff [Big Grin]

methanol is more corrosive than ethanol, buy far

and dont drink, not good [Big Grin]
 
Posted by vpr_klr (Member # 3353) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 89Rodknocker:
Does anybody know of any and if anyone's running it what do you think.

Don't do it on a street car. Don't!
 
Posted by kingmoochr (Member # 5834) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 66 AC COBRA:
got any headers lying around from those sprint cars, need some spreadport stuff [Big Grin]

methanol is more corrosive than ethanol, buy far

and dont drink, not good [Big Grin]

actually, if you seriously wanted to purchase a set, i think we have 1 or 2 we arent using. they come horizontally out from sbc heads about 8 inches and head for the ground for about 18 inches, then back, if you arent familiar with them
 
Posted by getjobdone (Member # 4666) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 73beast351c:
haha, I saw this and was like "WTF?".

 -

hahah funny you mention that, I thought the same damn thing!
 
Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by kingmoochr:
quote:
Originally posted by 88DroptopGT:


And corrosion only happens when ETHANOL is used, but this should not occur since METHANOL is what we are talking about here. In fact, a water-based injection system actually "cleans" the residue oil-based fuel engines leave inside the internals.

methanol is highly corrosive. i can send you some now-junk alum fittings from the methanol powered sprint car at the shop if you need proof.
I understand about the properties of methanol but the case of sporadic injection into a boosted SBF is what I was concentrating upon. Thanks for the proof though.

Pure methanol is a solvent..
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by vpr_klr:
quote:
Originally posted by 89Rodknocker:
Does anybody know of any and if anyone's running it what do you think.

Don't do it on a street car. Don't!
I am sorry but that is rediculas it is designed for a street car. They work like they are designed. If anything do not do it on a race car.
 
Posted by kingmoochr (Member # 5834) on :
 
they arent "designed" for a street car, and theyve been in use in racing MUCH longer than on the street. and to the other guy, your statement paraphrased was ethanol is more corrosive than meth. its not. they are both alcohols - hence the 'anol
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
I keep reading this and I can't believe the crap I keep seeing. THEY ARE DESIGNED FOR STREET CARS period!!!!!!! argh
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
I am sorry but that is rediculas it is designed for a street car. They work like they are designed.
If anything do not do it on a race car.

dude you are an idiot. Methanol has a cooler substance that fuel and you are able to throw more power at an engine with boost, n20 because of the cooling temperatures which helps avoid any knocking.

So i guess i better tell my friend that runs Methanol for fuel and has meth injection for cooling that he better not do it on his race car, he will go from 8's to 10's! bwahahahaa

L O S E R
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by kingmoochr:
methanol is highly corrosive. i can send you some now-junk alum fittings from the methanol powered sprint car at the shop if you need proof.

there is always a fix to everything.

1. yes it is corrosive but...

2. if you get anodized fittings and proper fuel lines and a plastic fuel tank or reservoir, you wont have that problem.

3. they also reccomend if the car is going to sit for a while to prime your system with fuel.
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by happygmore:
quote:
Originally posted by 2stangs69-91:
I am sorry but that is rediculas it is designed for a street car. They work like they are designed.
If anything do not do it on a race car.

dude you are an idiot. Methanol has a cooler substance that fuel and you are able to throw more power at an engine with boost, n20 because of the cooling temperatures which helps avoid any knocking.

So i guess i better tell my friend that runs Methanol for fuel and has meth injection for cooling that he better not do it on his race car, he will go from 8's to 10's! bwahahahaa

L O S E R

You are a NOBODY .Period who only has dumb ass things to say OK. Plus what the fuck did you even say? why don't you go read that shit...edit it so people can understand it and then call me a Idiot. I know almost everything there is to know about water-meth injection. But your friend is not getting the benifit from his set up that a person running pump gass would get....but you are not obviosly smart enough to understand this by your post. Anybody else but happygaymore want the info just pm me I will be glad to help. Dude do you even have a car? So your friend runs methonal for fuel and injects methonal for cooling? why not just run a bigger jet idiot.

[ December 08, 2007, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by happygmore:
quote:


3. they also reccomend if the car is going to sit for a while to prime your system with fuel. [/QB]
OK now that is just stupid lol. Hello idiot the kits we are talking about are on cars with electric fuel pumps that self prime. Plus water-meth kits like we are talking about are activated by boost. How exactly are you using this to prime your fuel system with no boost? I can not wait to here this.

[ December 08, 2007, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
Of the people posting on this thread. How many are actualy running a water-meth kit? I am just curious if people are posting on hear say info or actualy have experiance with it. I have run one for along time now.

[ December 08, 2007, 04:16 PM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
bro, shutup and pack your bags and start basket weaving.

#3 was more for people using methanol for fuel and for those complaining of corrosion eating up the AN fittings. You know nothing about it.

so let me understand you. According to YOU, i am better off running pump gas vs. methanol for fuel.

and for cooling i am better off running a bigger jet vs. an additional setup for cooling boost. ROFL

bro, my shit is almost done. you got heads the f*ck up, your pump gas vs. my methanol.

i want that bad dude DART block setup when your done.

LOCK IT UP!

[ December 08, 2007, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: happygmore ]
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
Lock it up and bring K's not hundreds.
You talk in circles. I have no idea what is best for your system ,nobody knows what you are running. Obviously you do not know what the water-meth kits we are talking about are. They are kits designed to be run with pump gass on boosted set ups(turbo's blowers,some even on high compression). You inject a 50/50 mixture of water and meth under high pressure. It cools the mixture down a bunch, plus raises the octane level in the cyl from 91 to around 120 so you can use more timming. That equals more HP. Tons of people also run them on there diesel trucks. I do not care about what you think you are running. half the time people can not tell WTF you are even syaing....My big bad dart set up will be open to EVERYBODY to try and get a piece of OK. I do not even know how fast it will be but I will gladly line up against you when it is done. For cash name your price..since you are such a dickhead no charity race for you. You might want to try my 91 first.....judging from your posts you will have some serious issues

[ December 08, 2007, 04:18 PM: Message edited by: 2stangs69-91 ]
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
its a deal knuckle head. i dont care for how much, ill have it covered.

bring both cars because i want to chop them both off the same day and send you home with your pump gas shit.

ill prove to ya methanol is for Race Cars.

Let me know!
 
Posted by BlackNGold (Member # 655) on :
 
2stangs69-91 ~ I'm confused, do you like meth injection?...You run it but you state, you "lost a couple of IAC motors" and "had a pump failure"...Right there is enough info for me not to get meth inj...To each his own...

I thought about meth inj, but for a street car you need to be reliable, my car breaks enough as it is, I don't want to worry about broken parts OR having to buy/find more methanol...With 17psi of boost I'd go through that shit fast......

My wife's cousin has it on his 300ZX twin turbo and it makes a big difference, but he only uses as an extra blast to go with his FMIC....HIs car is tuned pretty safe too...

Just my .02
 
Posted by kingmoochr (Member # 5834) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by happygmore:

2. if you get anodized fittings and proper fuel lines and a plastic fuel tank or reservoir, you wont have that problem.

3. they also reccomend if the car is going to sit for a while to prime your system with fuel.

all alum fittings come annodized, its not a miracle shielding. again, im talking about the methanol-run race cars that use methanol for fuel, we'd like to not blow them up by putting gas in the lines, thats just more evidence of methanols corrosive nature. if it sits in anything for to long it will degrade it.
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
i agree
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
gaymore you are all talk ok. I have been racing and winning for years(people know me). I honestly do not now of ,or never heard of you (or care to). I gaurntee when I am done , you won't be around. If enough assholes like you keep talking shit I might actualy get this thing done [Big Grin] .

I like water/meth injection. I was answering a question about if there were any problems with running the kit. I lost 2 IAC motors neither one was new. I have ran it for over 3 years and plan to keep running it. I started on a 302- then on my 331 stroker. I ran 2 years and over 20,000 miles on a 9.8 to 1 331. with 15 psi and up to 30 degrees timming when I raced it. The only reason it didn't blow up in the first week was the water/meth kit. The highest octane I ever ran in it was 100 octane unleaded mostly 91. If you know anything about blower cars you will see the tune I ran non-intercooled is on the edge very unsafe except for a water-meth kit. I would recomend any one running a non intercooled blower on the street get one.

As far as methonal as race fuel I think it works great. I am not sure what is up gaymores ass. In my 69 mustang I am NOT going to run a water-meth kit. It has a huge air to water/intercooler. It will only run on race fuel. I have way to much time and money invested in this car to have a pump go bad on a Meth kit on this one.
 
Posted by Eddie510- (Member # 2354) on :
 
my buddy has it on his turbo buick. hasnt mest up and boy that thing moves [burnout]
 
Posted by need-a-cage (Member # 5415) on :
 
From what I have read, not in this post, the water/meth kits are great. I really want to get one, but I just don't have the money. The Snow kits are supposed to jump in price after the 1st of the year, so get a stage 2 kit now.

I want to get one just so my car will run more consistent. If I get one, my problem will be keeping the car over 11.50. I already ran 11.42 with only 7psi of non-intercooled boost and I just can't get a cage now. When I get a cage, it will be 12psi with water/meth injection and running 10's. That is also after a clutch, rearend, and maybe tranny upgrade. Too many things have to be bought to use more power. I would like the kit just because I think it would be more consistent. The day I ran my 11.42 the car slowed to a high 11 by the time I made it to the final. It slows way down when hot lapped.

My next purchase is going to be a Tweecer so I can install my 60lb injectors and ditch the FMU. With the Tweecer, you can tune the car to pull out a ton of timing as the incoming air temps go up. So, if something goes wrong with the water/meth injection you won't toast the motor b/c the timing will get pulled out as the IAT's go up. It may run a little lean though, but I plan on shooting for 11.75:1 so that will give me some margin.
 
Posted by happygmore (Member # 7159) on :
 
let me know...ill be around.
 
Posted by BCINGUU (Member # 2397) on :
 
I ran water/ethanol injection in my 93 Cobra for a few years, and got some good power out of it. It cut about a half a second off my times.

I built my own system from scratch using a 5 gallon fuel cell (less chance of running dry) and a high quality water pump.

I eventually removed the system for 2 reasons - 1, every time I had to smog check the car, the techs would freak out and refuse to test my car. If it's not CARB approved, you can pretty much forget about passing smog. And 2, I had a lot of problems with inconsistent flow, because it's very hard to get the tank high enough for gravity to pull enough of the mixture down to the pump. Especially when you are driving up and down hills.

So, in the end it was a fun experiment and I didn't break anything, and I did the whole thing for less than $100, so it was a good cheap project. I would have tried to tune it more, except that I literally couldn't get the car smogged.
 
Posted by BCINGUU (Member # 2397) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by need-a-cage:
So, if something goes wrong with the water/meth injection you won't toast the motor b/c the timing will get pulled out as the IAT's go up.

Good theory, I thought the same thing, but my experience is that intake temp is always equal to water temp. If you are running a 180 degree thermostat, you'll probably find like I did that your intake temp is always 180 degrees after the engine warms up. That's what the EEC will see anyway, which is what counts when you are talking about pulling timing.
 
Posted by need-a-cage (Member # 5415) on :
 
I was thinking about the whole Smog thing. I worked hard to make sure that all my mods will pass smog. It would suck to have to remove the kit every time I smog the car.

I will have to experiment with the IAT's when I get the Tweecer. I think that a lot of people relocate the sensor also. It would need to react immediately if you were counting on that as your safety switch.
 
Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
thats funny on the smog thing because nobody hardly ever knows what the resivoir is . Very interesting idea on the intake air charge temps.
 
Posted by itznotahighway (Member # 7934) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by happygmore:
its a deal knuckle head. i dont care for how much, ill have it covered.

bring both cars because i want to chop them both off the same day and send you home with your pump gas shit.

ill prove to ya methanol is for "Street Cars".

Let me know!

using that term very loosely...
 




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