This is topic special tool for head studs in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by lky_3 (Member # 1116) on :
 
Do i have to use a special tool to install head studs on my 306?
 
Posted by asskickn88 (Member # 4957) on :
 
They just thread right in. I use liquid teflon on the threads to keep them from seizing into the block and seal the lower ones because they go into a water port. Dont use loc-tight on any head bolt or stud.... just a tip. A certain shop that did engine work on my GT (before I got it) used it on my head studs and I'm having a hell of a time getting them out for the new engine I'm putting together.
 
Posted by TOPnotch (Member # 1340) on :
 
Chase teh threads first before you install the studs. They should go right in. If your using arp studs they have a allen provision in the top. [patriot]
 
Posted by 92stangLX (Member # 3252) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by asskickn88:
They just thread right in. I use liquid teflon on the threads to keep them from seizing into the block and seal the lower ones because they go into a water port. Dont use loc-tight on any head bolt or stud.... just a tip. A certain shop that did engine work on my GT (before I got it) used it on my head studs and I'm having a hell of a time getting them out for the new engine I'm putting together.
+1 make sure you use teflon seal on the lower ones or they will leak coolant. Trust me... I learned this one the hard way [Wink]
 
Posted by 166 Merlot (Member # 1549) on :
 
I used medium strenghth loc tite (blue) top and bottom on the studs. no leaks here. Definitely chase the threads tho, I used a 7/16th tap and pulled out a lot of CRAP.
 
Posted by asskickn88 (Member # 4957) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
I used medium strenghth loc tite (blue) top and bottom on the studs. no leaks here.
The biggest problem I'm having is getting them back out. You would think that a shop would know not to put loc-tight on studs and these retards used the high strength red so I'm fighting to get them all out. I have used the liquid teflon on several sets of head bolts or studs and never had a problem. I agree with chasing the threads, I forgot to mention that in my first post. I also go 10 ft #s higher on the upper bolt torque. I read its supposed to hold the head down better or something like that, I dont remember exactly why they say to do it but I have also done it several times without a problem. Just dont go far past the recommended torque specs from the bolt maker.
 
Posted by TOPnotch (Member # 1340) on :
 
I would not use loc tite its not needed. Like asskickn88 said defenatly use teflon thread sealer on the bottom holes, and I use molly lube on the top holes to lube them and keep them from getting stuck.
 
Posted by mnstruc (Member # 5652) on :
 
the best way I have found to remove studs that have been loc tite'd in is to use three nuts on the stud. Cinch them all against each other, then use the middle one to back the stud out. They will be tough, however, they will come out with patience.
 
Posted by S351-R (Member # 1605) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by asskickn88:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 166 Merlot:
I also go 10 ft #s higher on the upper bolt torque. I read its supposed to hold the head down better or something like that, I dont remember exactly why they say to do it but I have also done it several times without a problem. Just dont go far past the recommended torque specs from the bolt maker.
The main reason for that is, or at least the theory is, because of the "V" shape of the motor, when the lower intake manifold is bolted and torqued down it will act like a wedge and have an outward push on the top row of bolts. You can apply more torque on head studs than head bolts. A little extra clamping force won't hurt.

[ October 18, 2007, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: S351-R ]
 




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