T O P I C R E V I E W
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66fastback
Member # 657
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posted
At 4700RPM on a Mustany Dyno it laid down 424HP and 476TQ I ran out of fuel at 4700RPM, so now I need to figure out what to upgrade on the fuel system: This is what I have now: 331ci all the bolts ons vortech A trim 8-9lbs vortech fuel rails/SX regulator 255lph intank pump 38LB injectors and were at 100% duty cycle, no FMU
I was planning on 50lb injectors and maybe an inline pump and hope that does the trick?
Any suggestions on what direction I should go??
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two-gun kid
Member # 5891
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posted
Congrates I think you should be fine with just bigger injectors
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two-gun kid
Member # 5891
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posted
Congrates I think you should be fine with just bigger injectors
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MustangNate
Member # 4559
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posted
Just out of curiousity, what's the difference between a Mustang Dyno and a "normal" dyno? Do they read your horsepower more or less accurately? Does it come out higher or less? I've always been confused on this.
My 86GT I ran on a Mustang dyno, the only mods it had was smog,a/c, p/s delete, LT headers, o/r H, & MAC cat-back and it dynoed 227rwhp and 300rwtq.
I then added a 70mm TB & spacer, CAI, MAF conversion, underdrive pulleys, electric fan, and E7 heads, returned to the dyno and was surprised to lay down 244rwhp & 306tq.
Not having any real mods on the car I was just curious if maybe Mustang dynos aren't accurate? Anyways, sorry for hi-jacking the thread. You can have it back just as soon as someone answer the question.
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Luke87GT
Member # 21
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posted
try a 255lph HI PRESS In line and 42 or 50's
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92stangLX
Member # 3252
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posted
Those are pretty good numbers. Go with an in-line pump and some 42 lb injectors and you should be good to go.
BTW.. What heads and cam do you have? Also, what compression is your motor?
Post the dyno sheet
EDIT: Does you car have a custom tune? [ June 30, 2006, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: 92stangLX ]
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92stangLX
Member # 3252
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posted
quote: Originally posted by MustangNate: Just out of curiousity, what's the difference between a Mustang Dyno and a "normal" dyno? Do they read your horsepower more or less accurately? Does it come out higher or less? I've always been confused on this.
My 86GT I ran on a Mustang dyno, the only mods it had was smog,a/c, p/s delete, LT headers, o/r H, & MAC cat-back and it dynoed 227rwhp and 300rwtq.
I then added a 70mm TB & spacer, CAI, MAF conversion, underdrive pulleys, electric fan, and E7 heads, returned to the dyno and was surprised to lay down 244rwhp & 306tq.
Not having any real mods on the car I was just curious if maybe Mustang dynos aren't accurate? Anyways, sorry for hi-jacking the thread. You can have it back just as soon as someone answer the question.
Here's something I found on another forum:
"Actually...The Mustang Dyno's work slightly different than the Dyno-Jet Dyno's...
Mustang Dyno's apply a load, via eletro-mechanical resistance, then rwhp is calculated based on how your "acceleration/unit of time" of this load occurs...
DynoJet Dyno's simply use a large drum, of know mass, as its rotating resistance...Then rwhp is calculated based on how your "acceleration/unit of time" of the drum occurs...
From what I am told the Mustang dyno gives you a "true" or real world rwhp... ...The difference between the two is about 10%...Dyno jets registering the higher hp readings..."
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MustangNate
Member # 4559
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posted
Thank you 92stangLX! Okay, you can have your thread back.
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SF Coupe
Member # 1810
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posted
Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
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AJBlackGT
Member # 3936
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posted
Good numbers I would put an inline pump in and skip the 42s and go straight to at least 50s or 55s. You don't want to buy 42s and still run out of fuel. I'm at 100% duty cycle with 42s a little before 6k rpm and this is with base fuel pressure at 60psi. But apparently most setups like yours can get away with 42s, I wasn't able to.
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66fastback
Member # 657
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posted
quote: Originally posted by AJBlackGT: Good numbers I would put an inline pump in and skip the 42s and go straight to at least 50s or 55s. You don't want to buy 42s and still run out of fuel. I'm at 100% duty cycle with 42s a little before 6k rpm and this is with base fuel pressure at 60psi. But apparently most setups like yours can get away with 42s, I wasn't able to.
Do you still have the stock feed/return lines? How much boost were you running?
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onesicklx
Member # 285
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posted
add the second pump...
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AJBlackGT
Member # 3936
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 66fastback: quote: Originally posted by AJBlackGT: Good numbers I would put an inline pump in and skip the 42s and go straight to at least 50s or 55s. You don't want to buy 42s and still run out of fuel. I'm at 100% duty cycle with 42s a little before 6k rpm and this is with base fuel pressure at 60psi. But apparently most setups like yours can get away with 42s, I wasn't able to.
Do you still have the stock feed/return lines? How much boost were you running?
No, -8 feed line, -6 return. Two inline walbro pumps. This was roughly 12psi on a 306...
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92stangLX
Member # 3252
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posted
quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
Here is one combo that works pretty good:
331 9:1 compression Twisted Wedge heads TFS stage 1 cam TFS street heat intake 70mm throttle body S-trim w/ 3:33 blower pulley and power pipe (8-10 lbs of boost) equal length shorties X pipe 2 1/2" cat back exhaust 42lb injectors 255 intank pump T-Rex inline pump AFPR SCT MAF SCT custom tune Crane or MSD ignition
Oh yeah, don't forget 355 gears. Should be pretty much smog legal (if they don't notice the APFR, SCT MAF, or injectors).
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Larry
Member # 5176
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posted
SORRY GUYS! I RUN 48 # INJECTORS AND PULL 635 RWHP. OF COURSE I HAVE 1/2" BRAIDED FUEL LINES AND 1/2" FUEL RAILS..ALSO AEROMOTIVE 1000 FUEL PUMP IN LINE. MY FIRST RUN WAS TO ELIMINATE FMU AND GO WITH 255 IN TANK AND BOSCH 300 IN LINE.. BY THE WAY I AM REMOVING MY AFTCLR ALONG WITH ALL PLUMBING AND PRO AM 80MM MASS AIR,48 LB INJ.S
IN CASE ANYONE IS INTERESTED..GOING TO 61 LB SIEMENS DEKA HI IMPEDENCE INJ.S 90 MM MASS AIR AND 2 STAGE MENATHOL WATER INJECTION..
MY 98 4.6 HEADS (REWORKED VALVE SEATS), INTAKE THROTTLE BODY,ETC...ALL FOR SALE. [ June 30, 2006, 06:27 PM: Message edited by: Larry ]
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Larry
Member # 5176
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by MustangNate: Just out of curiousity, what's the difference between a Mustang Dyno and a "normal" dyno? Do they read your horsepower more or less accurately? Does it come out higher or less? I've always been confused on this.
My 86GT I ran on a Mustang dyno, the only mods it had was smog,a/c, p/s delete, LT headers, o/r H, & MAC cat-back and it dynoed 227rwhp and 300rwtq.
I then added a 70mm TB & spacer, CAI, MAF conversion, underdrive pulleys, electric fan, and E7 heads, returned to the dyno and was surprised to lay down 244rwhp & 306tq.
Not having any real mods on the car I was just curious if maybe Mustang dynos aren't accurate? Anyways, sorry for hi-jacking the thread. You can have it back just as soon as someone answer the question.
Here's something I found on another forum:
"Actually...The Mustang Dyno's work slightly different than the Dyno-Jet Dyno's...
Mustang Dyno's apply a load, via eletro-mechanical resistance, then rwhp is calculated based on how your "acceleration/unit of time" of this load occurs...
DynoJet Dyno's simply use a large drum, of know mass, as its rotating resistance...Then rwhp is calculated based on how your "acceleration/unit of time" of the drum occurs...
From what I am told the Mustang dyno gives you a "true" or real world rwhp... ...The difference between the two is about 10%...Dyno jets registering the higher hp readings..."
YOUR ABSOLUTELY CORRECT..BUT EVEN ON THE MUSTANG DYNO THE OPERATOR CAN ALTER THE OUTCOME BY HIS INPUT.
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SF Coupe
Member # 1810
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
Here is one combo that works pretty good:
331 9:1 compression Twisted Wedge heads TFS stage 1 cam TFS street heat intake 70mm throttle body S-trim w/ 3:33 blower pulley and power pipe (8-10 lbs of boost) equal length shorties X pipe 2 1/2" cat back exhaust 42lb injectors 255 intank pump T-Rex inline pump AFPR SCT MAF SCT custom tune Crane or MSD ignition
Oh yeah, don't forget 355 gears. Should be pretty much smog legal (if they don't notice the APFR, SCT MAF, or injectors).
Sorry for hijacking the thread but is this combo realistic for a stock block. Just curious cause I want to know if I should use my stock block or start all over with an aftermarket piece.
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92stangLX
Member # 3252
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posted
quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
Here is one combo that works pretty good:
331 9:1 compression Twisted Wedge heads TFS stage 1 cam TFS street heat intake 70mm throttle body S-trim w/ 3:33 blower pulley and power pipe (8-10 lbs of boost) equal length shorties X pipe 2 1/2" cat back exhaust 42lb injectors 255 intank pump T-Rex inline pump AFPR SCT MAF SCT custom tune Crane or MSD ignition
Oh yeah, don't forget 355 gears. Should be pretty much smog legal (if they don't notice the APFR, SCT MAF, or injectors).
Sorry for hijacking the thread but is this combo realistic for a stock block. Just curious cause I want to know if I should use my stock block or start all over with an aftermarket piece.
You should have no problems using a stock block. Just don't go crazy with the boost and make sure you get a custom tune
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AJBlackGT
Member # 3936
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
Here is one combo that works pretty good:
331 9:1 compression Twisted Wedge heads TFS stage 1 cam TFS street heat intake 70mm throttle body S-trim w/ 3:33 blower pulley and power pipe (8-10 lbs of boost) equal length shorties X pipe 2 1/2" cat back exhaust 42lb injectors 255 intank pump T-Rex inline pump AFPR SCT MAF SCT custom tune Crane or MSD ignition
Oh yeah, don't forget 355 gears. Should be pretty much smog legal (if they don't notice the APFR, SCT MAF, or injectors).
Sorry for hijacking the thread but is this combo realistic for a stock block. Just curious cause I want to know if I should use my stock block or start all over with an aftermarket piece.
You should have no problems using a stock block. Just don't go crazy with the boost and make sure you get a custom tune
That's going to be a time bomb in a stock block. If you want any sort of longevity or peace of mind you should build it in an r block, dart block, or world block. That setup should make 500rwhp and if you decide to pulley it for more boost you'll really be pushing it. If you want to keep a stock block, don't build a 331, that way if it breaks you don't throw away a bunch of money on the rotating assembly. You could build that same setup with a stock bottom end and make 500rwhp with a different pulley and not worry about scattering your 331 all over the ground. Just my opinion
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SmokinLX
Member # 1684
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posted
quote: Originally posted by AJBlackGT: quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: quote: Originally posted by 92stangLX: quote: Originally posted by SF Coupe: Nice numbers, I have a few questions.
Can you post your combo? Are you using the stock block? Is it smog legal? I'm just starting to plan a 331 with a blower and need some ideas for what parts to use.
Here is one combo that works pretty good:
331 9:1 compression Twisted Wedge heads TFS stage 1 cam TFS street heat intake 70mm throttle body S-trim w/ 3:33 blower pulley and power pipe (8-10 lbs of boost) equal length shorties X pipe 2 1/2" cat back exhaust 42lb injectors 255 intank pump T-Rex inline pump AFPR SCT MAF SCT custom tune Crane or MSD ignition
Oh yeah, don't forget 355 gears. Should be pretty much smog legal (if they don't notice the APFR, SCT MAF, or injectors).
Sorry for hijacking the thread but is this combo realistic for a stock block. Just curious cause I want to know if I should use my stock block or start all over with an aftermarket piece.
You should have no problems using a stock block. Just don't go crazy with the boost and make sure you get a custom tune
That's going to be a time bomb in a stock block. If you want any sort of longevity or peace of mind you should build it in an r block, dart block, or world block. That setup should make 500rwhp and if you decide to pulley it for more boost you'll really be pushing it. If you want to keep a stock block, don't build a 331, that way if it breaks you don't throw away a bunch of money on the rotating assembly. You could build that same setup with a stock bottom end and make 500rwhp with a different pulley and not worry about scattering your 331 all over the ground. Just my opinion
It will split like a watermelon. It's a box of chocolates at that power level, You never know what You are going to get. I was in the same boat as You are a while back and went with a used 10,000 mile shortblock with an f cam for 500 buck's and now I am saving for a real block to put some nice stuff into down the road. I am knocking on the door of 10's with the 306 with a pullied S trim and I feel like I am at a level where the block could go at any time.
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CDT
Member # 5004
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posted
the statement about the Mustang dyno is almost correct. It measures torque from pressure applied to a load cell, it is not calculated from acceleration. That's how they are able to give steady state power readings.
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