T O P I C R E V I E W
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Dennis L
Member # 5014
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posted
Ok, I'm not new to this. About 25 years ago I had same problem with another 289. That was valves to tight, loosened them and fired right up. This time I carefully adjust valves and then after no start, loosened all till the rockers were loose. 65 - 289 block, with 270H Competition Cams cam. seems that when the piston is TDC the intake was just closing. I lined up the dots on cam gear 6 for cam and 12 O'clock for the crank. Anthing else to look at before I take the timing chain cover off. I used the old timing gear set, which was new nad never run. (rebuilt engine 0 miles with stock cam)
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CDT
Member # 5004
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posted
did you check your piston to valve clearance?
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SilverLX351
Member # 3207
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posted
Does it ACT like no compression, or did you hook a guage up and see that it has no compression? Check for fuel, spark, firing order...GOODLUCK
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Dennis L
Member # 5014
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posted
I didn't check the piston to valve clearance.
I did put a guage on the #1 cyl and took #4 plug out also and used the finger method. IF anything it seemed to suck my finger in not push it out. Seems like the valve timing is off, and still open at TDC.
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SilverLX351
Member # 3207
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posted
Did the guage read anything when you hooked it up and cranked the motor?
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mtbaughs
Member # 4052
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posted
Do you have the right firing order for that particular setup. I'm not familar with that cam but is it a retro fit cam?
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JohnB
Member # 969
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posted
Throw the part number of the cam up here. We'll be able to help you better with that info.
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CDT
Member # 5004
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posted
put the piston at BDC then take off the two rockers for that cylinder, then put your finger in the hole and rotate the engine. If it then has compression its your valve timing, if not then it bent the valves.
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Dennis L
Member # 5014
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posted
It's a Comp Cams 270H-10 #31-414-3 hydraulic 270 Duration intake & exhaust 500 lift Intake and Exhaust 106 intake center line Duration at 050 is 224 for Intake and Exhaust lobe separation 110.0
1965 289 block 30 over with dished pistons. Fresh rebuild only it was done about 1977 and never run. When I put the cam in I also had new springs put in the heads at a shop. I also checked for cylinder corrosion (none), which is why I took it apart in the first place Thanks
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Dennis L
Member # 5014
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posted
Worked on tonite and found in an old Motors Manual you line up the crank key at 12 and the cam dot at 6. Seems like I have compression now and like it wanted to start on 6 cyl. when I turned it over!! Now I have accidently buggered up the cam dowel pin and pushed it in a little to far. It only will engage the fuel cam eccentric with about 2 milimeters of the pin. Thinking of just spot welding it.
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
the timing chain and the cam go in dot-dot, I'm afraid to say.
perhaps installing the distributor 180 degrees off works in that regard?
cam dowels are SUPER cheap. ask any machine shop, they'll probably throw a handful at you
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talaposa
Member # 2460
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posted
Be sure to get the right pin. The later fi pins are shorter. The old pins are longer because they helped hold the fuel pump eccentric.
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