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Author
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Topic: Need more HP !!!
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5speeddemon
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Member # 5276
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I just got out ran by a stock F150, my car is bone stock also. What it the best bang for the bucks in getting more HP ?? And thw worse part is that it is an auto not a 5 speed. I just got the car from a guy for $3500.00 90 GT 5.0 with 52000 miles. Just need help with more HP ASAP !!!
[ March 27, 2005, 03:27 PM: Message edited by: 5speeddemon ]
Posts: 29 | From: Tifton | Registered: Jan 2005
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CDT
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Member # 5004
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posted
start with converter and gears, then move on to heads, cam and intake.. Or throw a N2O kit on it.
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Custom Dyno Tuning
510.331.0608
Home of Flat Fee Tuning For All Cars, Trucks and SUV's, EFI & Carb, SCT, AFR, Dynatech, STS Turbos, N2O Refills
Posts: 1053 | From: Hayward | Registered: Nov 2004
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5speeddemon
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Member # 5276
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What size gears are in a stock 5.0, and what size should I change them to.
Posts: 29 | From: Tifton | Registered: Jan 2005
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poisonpony96
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Member # 3942
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pretty sure alot of guys use 3.73 in 5.0's
Posts: 1183 | From: San Jose | Registered: Dec 2003
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TURLX50
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Member # 3928
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IT ALL DEPENDS ON WHAT U USE IT FOR IF U CAR ABOUT GAS MILAGE THEN GO 3:73 IF NOT 4:10
Posts: 304 | From: WALNUT CREEK | Registered: Dec 2003
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carajo
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Member # 4426
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posted
i would conv. to a 5 speed first
then some gears.
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06 magnum srt8 6.1
05 f250 lifted
94 gt wait till you see me!
Posts: 1468 | From: hate`n in richmond | Registered: Apr 2004
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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1. If your stang is not brand new the number one "mod" is TUNING, yes, you fist need to make your stang perform as expected or better than when it was brand new.
2. The stock mustang intake is pretty restrictive, to reduce its limitations install a K&N filter. For about $35 you can replace the ORIGINAL filter with a OEM fit K&N. If you can afford to spend a little more then get a COLD AIR SETUP, this you can buy or fabricate.
3. This is where it gets interesting, most people will say get headers, others to get mufflers, X pipes or H pipes, etc. The main thing at this point is to improve exhaust without hurting performance which can happen if you select to big and exhaust system for your almost STOCK car. Our advice here is simple, get a set of free flowing mufflers, this is one of the most restrictive parts on the exhaust system and will free some hidden horsepower. Bigger headers, Xpipes or catbacks will cost you several hundreds and will not give the results you expect.
4. HEADS....are we nuts? you bet, we are nuts about power, heads are the BIGGEST restriction on the 5.0 HO. Changing to better flowing heads will net you gains close to 40horsepower. No other collection of "bolt-ons" can do this for the same amount of money. Just check this numbers:
Commong Mods --------- Price ------------ HP
HEADERS ----------------- $150
CATBACK ----------------- $230
PULLEYS ------------------ $70
H pipe (off road) ---------- $150
MAF ---------------------- $180
Avg. --------------------- $780 ------------ 30
Avg. Per HP ------------- $26 ------------ 1 HP
Heads ------------------- Price ------------ HP
Iron GT40 ---------------- $850 ------------ 40
Alum GT40 Y ------------- $990 ------------ 50
Alum GT40 X ------------- $1,100 ---------- 60
Alum Edelbrock ----------- $1,100 ---------- 55
Alum TFS ---------------- $950 ------------ 55
Avg. -------------------- $998 ------------ 52
Avg. Per HP ------------ $19.90 ---------- 1 HP
As you can see in the table the price performance ratio of the heads is way better than that of the most popular bolt ons, the HP figures of the heads are an AVERAGE of several numbers found on some magazines and manufacturers websites, and we think they are pretty close to the real thing. Even a 40HP increase from heads alone is enough to justify their price.
Not considered in the table above is INSTALL PRICE, which will be almost the same for installing heads compared to all the bolt ons.
5. Next in our list is EXHAUST, after the heads are done the most restrictive exhaust part is the stock headers. In the OEM units the pipes are severely compressed where they are soldered to the flanges. This severely restricts exhaust flow (backpressure). The rest of the exhaust system is still OK for the amount of HP you have right now, probably a bit above 260 HP at the crank if your car is a 5 speed and about 250 if its an automatic.
6. Now we have to take care of the most restrictive part of the intake, the UPPER and LOWER manifolds. Here you will find lots of choices such as Long and Short runner manifolds of different brands such as FMS, Edelbrock, TFS, Saleen, Holley to name the most popular.
7. Now that you took care of the U/L intake its time to get rid of the restrictive Throttle body. A larger TB will increase performance as much as 15 HP with all the mods installed.
8. At this point your stock 19 pound INJECTORS are in their HP limit, a good choice is getting 30 pounders and a new fuel pump and MAF OR CUSTOM CHIP. These additions will help you calibrate your new combo to the new injectors. We recommend getting a chip tuned to your current setup instead of the new MAF. A good chip manufacturer will put your car on a Dyno to calibrate the new computer to get the most out of your combination of parts.
9. The Ignition system is now one of the weak links in the equation, with the added HP and fuel, a better coil will help you to make a bigger spark to burn the added fuel.
10. Last is to replace the rest of the exhaust system, an H or X pipe here will free a few more horses and will get you ready for the next mods...probably a supercharger? turbo?
Here the choice is yours, the X will increase power about 5-8 HP more than and H pipe but it is also more expensive. X and H pipes can be bought for OFF ROAD use which means they don't have cat converters or street legal versions with high flow cats. The later are about twice as expensive but might be required in some states.
At this point, you 5.0 HO Mustang is close to 300 rear wheel horsepower, and of course it is more fun to step on the pedal but there are still things to consider. The suspension will need modifications, the same as the brakes to keep those horses under control.
Buying used parts is good if you are on a budget, but buy only if you are 100% sure the part for sale comes from a reliable source. Headers, intakes, exhaust components are good used buys, you can easily tell if they are damaged. Heads are a bit harder to buy used cause some damage might not be aparent to the untrained eye.
Also remember that the SUM of HP gains for each part will not give you your total HP GAINS. Each part works in conjunction with the others. Think of the engine as a SYSTEM in which every part you install increases efficiency in relation to the other parts.
And last, have fun and by all means ASK ASK ASK others about their experiences.
I stole this from the guys @ All Ford Mustangs.
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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talaposa
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Member # 2460
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posted
Ditto on that for nate.If you want to play head games before getting the hands dirty get "desktop dyno" or similar computer program and install head flow numbers from the manufacturers etc. and play with combinations on the computer. May not exactly nail your horsepower but in general they work for noting the changes. I have built several engines for others just using desk top dyno and importing into desk top drag. Hey, for less than $100 the education and assembly games are worth it.
Posts: 91 | From: Auburn,CA | Registered: Feb 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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While i do agree with most of what was said in the above posts, thats a lot to swallow at one time.
Getting the manual tranny and the gears will make a huge difference. If you want to know the specifics of how to do it, just ask around the boards... there people who can tell you.
After that i would go for the exhauast (headers, X or H pipe, and some nice mufflers) It may not be 100% necessary to get the whole exhaust done at this point, but you will love your car that much more with it done.
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1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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Quick 88LX
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Member # 1950
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If you want to stick with an automatic, then a converter and gears will be sweet like cdt said. 4.10s in an automatic would kick you in the butt real nice ![[Smile]](smile.gif) Simple other things like exhaust and an air filter are pretty cheap and worth a few more ponies. Heads will make the BIGGEST difference in horsepower but it will also make the biggest dent in your wallet.
You could take the road less traveled and buy really good upper and lower control arms with some prothane bushings, gears, and a good set of springs and shocks at all four corners with a set of subframe connectors welded on and you will notice your 'stock' 90 GT get moving! Instead of putting on a bunch of parts that give you horsepower, try putting on a bunch of parts that put the HP you already have to the ground. You will be surprised what suspension ALONE is worth when it comes to going fast, fast! After the suspension, then get the bolt ons. You will never be happier.
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"Men are Made, Not Born"
Car Picture : http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/quick88lx/
Original Member #495. Can I get my number back?
Posts: 1785 | From: Fairfield, CA/Okinawa, Japan | Registered: Oct 2002
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
Don't forget to pull your air silencer out, it's located in the passenger side fender well. PITA to get to but it's worth it.
You might also think about bumping your timing to around 14* BTDC, stock timing is at 10* BTDC.
Thinking of it, you may be able to actually just put a conical air filter on your mass air meter instead of buying a CAI. It won't flow as good, but will be much better than keeping that box, if I'm wrong someone will chime in.
Anyways, all that should net you a few extra ponies and the only cost you'll have is the air filter.
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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z pyro
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Member # 3745
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by MustangNate:
Thinking of it, you may be able to actually just put a conical air filter on your mass air meter instead of buying a CAI. It won't flow as good, but will be much better than keeping that box, if I'm wrong someone will chime in.
Anyways, all that should net you a few extra ponies and the only cost you'll have is the air filter.
I thought sucking in hot engine bay air is worse than using the stock airbox? if you go with a conical filter make sure you stick it in the fenderwell
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'95 Integra LS
'08 Buell XB12R Firebolt
'65 Mustang 289 - soon to be 306
Posts: 1732 | From: Fresno, CA | Registered: Nov 2003
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5speeddemon
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Member # 5276
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posted
Is the air silencer the round plastic thing ???? Where a CIA would go???
Posts: 29 | From: Tifton | Registered: Jan 2005
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uh0h50
CAFords OG
Member # 3125
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posted
^yes it is.. kinda like a ball of useless plastic.
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AP1 S2000
Posts: 2926 | From: Bay Area 510 | Registered: Jul 2003
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uh0h50
CAFords OG
Member # 3125
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posted
by the way, have fun wrestling with it trying to get it out from the bottom.. but you'll get it.
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AP1 S2000
Posts: 2926 | From: Bay Area 510 | Registered: Jul 2003
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