Author
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Topic: 351w oil pressure low...
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
When I first got my 351 started, it had about 60psi oil pressure...once warm about 45 or 50.
Now, 3 days and 1 oil change later, its at 40 when cold and about 35 warmed up. I thought it was my autometer guage so I tried the stock one and its the same. It also takes about 10 seconds after starting it to get oil pressure, longer when its completely cold. WTF? Is the pump taking a crap?
I can see the oil SLOWLY traveling through the nylon line towards the guage...the first couple days it had oil pressure almost instantly. I made sure to prime the system before starting it also. I really noticed it after changing the break in oil, I was running castrol 10w40 before with a napa gold filter, now I have a Fram PH8A with castrol 10w40.
Any ideas would be great! Also, the oil smells a lot like gas...it does run rich, but I want to keep it like that until I get it dyno tuned.
here are the specs on the motor
1974 351w .030 over S-Trim Comp Roller cam World Roush 200's Sealed Power oil pump 150 miles on it.
Please help, I really want to figure this out, THANKS
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
The gas in the oil could definately be the problem...lean it out a bit and change the oil and the pressure should be alright.
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
Ok, I will lean it out, but I think it will cut out at high RPM's if I do...
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
My car isnt a blower car with nearly that much power, but when i had those symptoms, i leaned it out and changed the oil and it seemed to do the trick. Maybe you want to wait until you put it on a dyno...
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
I just saw your thread over on corral. Looks like they're got you covered over there too, try the FL1A filter or a wix filter, i usually use either of those.
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
What oil should I go with this time?(brand and weight)
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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AJBlackGT
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Member # 3936
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posted
I would think 10w40 should be thick enough since it had good oil pressure with it to begin with, you just have to get the gas out of the oil, i like valvoline. You can go with synthetic as long as you dont have any leaks, because it will make them worse.
-------------------- 90 Notch
Posts: 1896 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Dec 2003
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
Ok, I will get a good filter and the same oil again, thanks!
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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white1990stang
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Member # 2307
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posted
you should be running a synthetic oil especially with the blower. like a 20-50 redline or a amsoil
-------------------- You must be fast, cause I was haullin ass when I passed you.
Posts: 1308 | From: martinez | Registered: Jan 2003
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phildog
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Member # 1214
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posted
Don't run synthetic oil for the first couple thousand miles. The serious race guys break 'em in on the dyno with dinosaur oil, and then switch to synthetic. After break in, synthetic is the way to go.
Posts: 1554 | From: 510 | Registered: Apr 2002
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
After how many miles would synthetic be a good idea? I ran 10 40 again with a Napa gold filter, and it gets pressure instantly and its at 40psi warm...I will see what its at in the morning...
Thanks!
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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JohnB
Tech Moderator
Member # 969
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posted
Hey guys, the filter will make zero difference with a oil press problem. The Ford SB oiling system goes through the pump, past the pressure port, then to the filter. If it was the opposite way, you would have high pressure.
Change the oil. Gas thins out oil severely, just like water does.
A bigger question is this: with the heads you have, do they have the correct springs? You may have a MAJOR problem brewing if they aren't.
-------------------- 1965 Shelby Cobra 1993 Cobra 2012 F150 Raptor 2020 GT500
Posts: 6523 | From: Orlando FL/Redding CA | Registered: Mar 2002
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
Well, I did the oil change and it gets oil pressure instantly now, but it's at 40psi warm idling or revved up. I will see in the morning what it is...
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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silverLX
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Member # 3207
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posted
TTT
I pulled the motor out today, and pulled the pan off. The rear rope seal got sucked into the oil pump pickup...WTF? Any ideas why? I checked a couple rod and main bearings and they look perfect...any ideas?
thanks!
-------------------- 88LX hatch 410w 88LX vert gears, exhaust 95GT H/C/I
Posts: 1613 | From: Sonoma County | Registered: Aug 2003
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