|
Author
|
Topic: What causes excess oil to be in the combustion chamber?
|
88DroptopGT
¯
Member # 2535
|
posted
 
 
I have a '91 AT Honda Accord with 140k on it that covers my spark plugs in oil when I change them. What could cause this?
I doubt it could be excessive ring gap (worn out) since it only has 140k on it. I filled it up to the correct quart level as well since I did all the maintenance on this car.
Thanks for any input. ![[Confused]](confused.gif)
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
| :
|
|
CDT
¯
Member # 5004
|
posted
are you sure its not a vavle cover leak? where on the plug is the oil?
--------------------
Custom Dyno Tuning
510.331.0608
Home of Flat Fee Tuning For All Cars, Trucks and SUV's, EFI & Carb, SCT, AFR, Dynatech, STS Turbos, N2O Refills
Posts: 1053 | From: Hayward | Registered: Nov 2004
| :
|
|
88DroptopGT
¯
Member # 2535
|
posted
quote:
Originally posted by CDT:
are you sure its not a vavle cover leak? where on the plug is the oil?
When I remove the spark plug, the electrode is blackened and the oil penetrates up to 2-4 threads deep. Even the spark plug wire that reaches down to the plug is somewhat oily at the tip.
I'll look at the blown up engine diagrams and see what gaskets they could be. I'm thinking it should be a gasket of some sort to let all that oil inside the chamber.
Thanks.
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
| :
|
|
MustangNate
¯
Member # 4559
|
posted
Bad valve seals? I had a 77 Camaro, the back plugs kept getting fouled out from oil because of the valve seals being bad. I don't know anything about imports, but maybe the same prob?
--------------------
1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
| :
|
|
grupe56
¯
Member # 5329
|
posted
You got a blown engine. I operated a speed shop in Salinas when I lived down there and mainly did imports (engine swaps, build ups etc.). Do a compression check (MAKE SURE YOU DISABLE THE IGNITION SYS) - if variance exceeds 15% to 25% between cyls then you'll confirm it. Jap engines use totally different valvetrain geometry and assy methods... it sounds like you got a tired engine. Another thing to check while you're at it is the main intake tube from the air filter to the throttle body - if it's got oil on it it's a sure sign of blow by. If you do end up confirming a bad engine (believe me when I say it probably is - especially if the engine has been subjected to a heavy foot) then get ahold of Shinwa Engine Distributors in the bay area. The owner is pretty cool and will hook you up with a complete engine/trans/ecu/harness assy for really reasonable.
G-56
Posts: 42 | From: Red Bluff, Cal | Registered: Feb 2005
| :
|
|
88DroptopGT
¯
Member # 2535
|
posted
I changed the rubber spark plug seals around the spark plug holes about 1000 miles ago and they looked fine now, so it can't be those. The leak is affecting ALL of the spark plugs as well.
It can't be the lower intake manifold gasket since that stops the oil from going OUT of the valve cover right?
There are no blown up internal engine gasket diagrams in my Haynes. ![[Mad]](mad.gif)
I'm thinking:
Bad rings
Valve seals
Leaky valves
My honda doesn't smoke excessively though. It just sucks to do a tune-up and see the plugs soaked in oil and not know why. ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
| :
|
|
grupe56
¯
Member # 5329
|
posted
You got a bad cyl or cyls - trust me. You can verify it with a compression check, again let me stress - disable the ignition assy completely before you perform the compression check (it's very important). I know it sucks to hear you got a bad engine - even the possibility of it happening is enough to worry about. I've come across alot of cars with really tired engines (Hondas mainly) because of the way they are ran. Alot of these "Fast & the Furious" types want the damn things to run like a stock Mustang with nothing more than an intake and a really loud muffler - Hondas are good cars... but even they are succeptible to premature wear if abused or worked hard. Dont sweat it though, a good JDM set up from Shinwas will probably run you $800 to $1200 - not too bad considering what it costs to replace a tired pushrod V-8.
G-56
Posts: 42 | From: Red Bluff, Cal | Registered: Feb 2005
| :
|
|
88DroptopGT
¯
Member # 2535
|
posted
Thanks for the advice. I used my Honda as a commuter, forget any mods on that thing.
Why can't I just get a short block or refresh (re-ring and bearings) the existing one? I shall do a compression test this weekend and see what's going on. I shall check for blow-by as well.
I don't flog the thing, I prolly put 20+ miles on it a day and it only has 140k on it. It's a shame since my friends has 200k+ and his Accord is running like a top with no problems.
Thank you very much for the advice.
Posts: 3978 | From: 707 | Registered: Mar 2003
| :
|
|
grupe56
¯
Member # 5329
|
posted
No problem, just glad to help. Because of cost issues - believe when I say it's cheaper to just replace the engine with a JDM assy... you'll thank yourself later for it. You can buy a complete engine for really reasonable with everything on it... bingo - bango... you're done in one day doing an R&R.
G-56
Posts: 42 | From: Red Bluff, Cal | Registered: Feb 2005
| :
|
|
Email this post to someone!
Printer friendly view of this Ford topic
