T O P I C R E V I E W
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
Hello CAFords...
I've been lurking around here for a while and I can honestly say that I haven't really attempted to gather as much information as I should have.
Well... here's the deal (keep in mind that I'm a newb and I apologize if any of this sounds irrelevent). (Long Story Short) My gf bought a '91 LX 5.0 hatchback 4 years ago. My only knowledge of the car is what she tells me, so from what I know: - the engine is stock w/ 119K miles - minor bolt-ons are "ram-air" and exhaust (don't know what kind, but it is loud and has no cats) - it was raced and sprayed with N20 (the motor feels beat-up and slugish) She used it as a daily driver for a year and then she sold it to her father. Her father continued to use it as a daily driver until smog time came up and we couldn't get it smogged or registered. It's been sitting in the garage for the past 12-18 months. It's basically been used for shelf/storage space with clothes and all sorts of random BS filling up the car... LOL. It was jump started this past Sunday and that was when I realized it's potential (thing sounds mean)... especially after watchin' shows like Rides or Overhaulin'... anything is possible, right.
So here's the deal... we want to revive this into a street/strip car that can be used as a daily driver (no more than 10-20 miles per day). Here's where you guys come in. We need some pointers and advice on how to go about planning this project. We're looking for the best of both worlds... speed and reliability. The appearance of the car won't be an issue until the mechanical upgrades are completed.
Here's what I'm thinking:
- Rebuild/Stroke engine to 30x, 331, or 347? or - purchase a built/documented replacement motor (30x, 331, 347)
- full exhaust (headers, ORX/H-Pipe, cat-back/mufflers) or - exhaust setup to comply with Smog regulations
- Full suspension + lowering springs (brands?)
- Rear-End (9" or built 8.8")
- Transmission: we'd have to keep it as an auto (since her dad will still be driving it). Does anyone make any good AOD tranny's? Are there any upgrades that can be made to the stock tranny? Swapping to a 5-speed is definitely out of the question.
- Possibly n20 if the mod-bug gets going that high. This is a big "IF", but what should I do to the motor to prepare it for the use of nitrous oxide?
Keep in mind that the car will occasionally be raced (1-3 times a year), and we'd all be plenty happy to see a low-13 to high-12 second pass.
Thanks for your time CAFords!
You'll be seeing me more in the Tech Section as well as the classifieds!
Rome
|
BlackDrop50
Member # 1715
|
posted
If I were to do it like that, I would go with:
331 or 347 stroker, basic box stock parts, not too high compression so it can be ran on 87 if needed.
Full exhaust with cats will pass smog.
Maximum Motorsports have very good suspension for good prices(Street/RoadRace/Drag). I personally wouldn't want to lower it if it was a daily driver.
Lentech makes strong AODs that would work very good.
Just put in stronger internals if you want to use N20. Even basic internals including stock components will handle a 100 shot easy.
The car should run AT LEAST 13 flat on street tires. 11s with slicks and N20.
|
HungryHippo
Member # 537
|
posted
a stock bottom end with the basic heads/cam/intake + boltons will run high 12's no problem
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by BlackDrop50: If I were to do it like that, I would go with:
331 or 347 stroker, basic box stock parts, not too high compression so it can be ran on 87 if needed.
Full exhaust with cats will pass smog.
Maximum Motorsports have very good suspension for good prices(Street/RoadRace/Drag). I personally wouldn't want to lower it if it was a daily driver.
Lentech makes strong AODs that would work very good.
Just put in stronger internals if you want to use N20. Even basic internals including stock components will handle a 100 shot easy.
The car should run AT LEAST 13 flat on street tires. 11s with slicks and N20.
What kind of compression ration are we looking at to run 87?
Is Maximum Motorsports a local shop or do they have a website... I guess I could look that up. nevermind.
Any links to catalogs specific to the 87-93 Fox Body will be helpful?
thanks again.
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by HungryHippo: a stock bottom end with the basic heads/cam/intake + boltons will run high 12's no problem
Should I purchase heads/cam/intake for the motor that's in there right now?
|
hawaii5.0
Member # 4675
|
posted
I think if you got with a 347 stroker it would be difficult to get it to pass smog. I say go with ported lower intake, heads, full exhaust and gears.
|
graylx
Member # 3919
|
posted
Sounds cool.
If you could give us an idea of how much you're looking to invest in the car, we could probably give you better advice.
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by graylx: Sounds cool.
If you could give us an idea of how much you're looking to invest in the car, we could probably give you better advice.
hmm.. the budget hasn't really been set yet since I haven't really started pricing anything.
Pretty much leaning on a Stroker kit, but don't know if we should go with 306, 331, or 347. Should we just stroke the current block or purchase a new/used shortblock already stroked? Kinda like the idea of having a low CR (8.8:1??), so that 87 could be an option.
There are a lot of unknowns actually... heads, intake, cam.
Does a $10,000.00 (parts only) budget seem reasonable for what I am trying to accomplish? I would need to stretch the $10k to cover the engine work, tranny, rear-end, fuel system, cooling system, and suspension.
Any suggestions?
Anyone have any links to online catalogs for the Fox Body? [ November 04, 2004, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Dyrti Byrd 2k2 ]
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by hawaii5.0: I think if you got with a 347 stroker it would be difficult to get it to pass smog. I say go with ported lower intake, heads, full exhaust and gears.
Smog not an issue at this point. My gf's father commutes in an old Crown Vic wagon right now. The LX has become more of hobby than a necessity right now. We'll try to deal with smog when the time comes again.
|
hawaii5.0
Member # 4675
|
posted
try http://www.dssracing.com/
|
Fostang
Member # 3752
|
posted
A 347 with the correct cam and gear will pass smog.
|
Fostang
Member # 3752
|
posted
I would go low compression HCI 306 with 14 psi of boost. about 500 rwhp right there.
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by Fostang: I would go low compression HCI 306 with 14 psi of boost. about 500 rwhp right there.
Can you elaborate? I'm pretty much starting from scratch here. thanks! [ November 04, 2004, 07:35 PM: Message edited by: Dyrti Byrd 2k2 ]
|
Fostang
Member # 3752
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by Dyrti Byrd 2k2: quote: Originally posted by Fostang: I would go low compression HCI 306 with 14 psi of boost. about 500 rwhp right there.
Can you elaborate? I'm pretty much starting from scratch here. thanks!
Your choice of either dss,chp, or a builder near you so you can check progress on the motor. Mail order is at your home way quicker though.
Trickflow heads stageII trickflow cam or if you need to smog F cam yes people do pass with the F cam just say it's an E if asked. dss main girdle forged 8.5 compression pistons 1.6 rocker arms or 1.7's. rpm intake 70 mm tb 42lb injectors 7"crank with underdrive accesory belt for that little extra umph pulley 2.95 blower pulley on an S-trim Recomend that the motore be either zero balanced or 28oz. 255 forced induction pump with inline t rex upgraded fuel rails not aromotive crap kirban regulator
Tranny of your choice as long as it's built. c4 with 3K stall or aod with 3k stall t-56 tranny.......g force etc.
tubular arms,k member, front coil overs, manual steering, a good set of control arms with spherical bushings 4 cyl springs out back 3.73 gears and a girdle. 28x10x15 wheels out back with some pizza cutters upfront.
mid 10's deep 11's.
Elaborate like that? [ November 04, 2004, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: Fostang ]
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
hmmm... I think that might be too much car for a daily driver. But what do I know, this is all new to me.
BTW... thanks for elaborating.
|
Fostang
Member # 3752
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by Dyrti Byrd 2k2: hmmm... I think that might be too much car for a daily driver. But what do I know, this is all new to me.
BTW... thanks for elaborating.
Then you lower boost. To around 8 psi stock 6.87" crank pulley and 3.33 blower that comes with the s trim.
I daily drove a combe like this in traffic for 2 months.
No suspension work and it sucked with traction.
All over the road I could down shift at 50 3rd-2nd with 3.73's and the car would pitch side ways.
On a stock t-5 I was easy on it though.
|
93PONY
Member # 60
|
posted
[ November 05, 2004, 12:06 PM: Message edited by: 93PONY ]
|
onesicklx
Member # 285
|
posted
quote: Originally posted by 93PONY: $10K,it's super easy to go 12's with that.
Cheap way: Buy a low-mileage used stock shortblock ($200-$400max) AFR185 heads Edelbrock performer RPM intake Stock camshaft....(this will do for high 12's) 1.7 RR's 1 3/4 longtubes (ported) 2.5 inch prochamber Straight-through cataback (like dynomax ultraflows or Magnaflows) stock 19lb injectors will work 70MM TB 75MM mass-air 155lph intank pump (minimum) 3.73-4.10 gears stock tranny 250+RWHP (stock auto 5.0's put down 180RWHP on a good day)
More power: 306 w/10.25-10.5 to 1 compression AFR185's Custom camshaft (smogable or not) 1.6RR's Edelbrock RPM or RPM 2 intake (ported to match heads) Same exhaust 4.10's or 4.30's Built tranny w/stall 24 or 30lb injectors 70-75MM TB 75-80MM mass-air 190lph intank pump (minimum) 280-300+RWHP Should go 11's at 3200lbs w/slicks
More power: 347 w/10.5 compression AFR205's or 225's (depending on how radical you want it) Large custom camshaft (not smogable at all!) 1.6RR's Edelbrock Victor 5.0 intake 1 3/4 longtubes (ported & modified for 3 inch exhaust) 3 inch pro-chamber 3-inch magnaflows or ultraflows dumped Built tranny w/stall 4.10's-4.30's depending on setup. 75-80MM TB 80MM Mass-air 36-42lb injectors 255lph intank pump Low 11's/high 10's 375+RWHP
BTW, our shortblocks are worth ~15-20hp over a stock shortblock in good condition.
300RWHP with a good working auto & the correct stall should get you 11.99's in a 3200lb car with a 1.6 60ft. 400RWHP should get you high 10's with a 1.5x 60ft.
thank you...
internet racers continue....j/k
|
Dyrti Byrd 2k2
Member # 2860
|
posted
Thanks everyone...
Dipping into the 12's would be very nice, but I'm willing to sacrifice ET's for drivability. I would have to opt out of the stall for now. Any stall would affect the daily drivability dramatically... especially for a 60 year old man trying to get to the hardware store in style.
I realize that this thread is turning into a "what combo should I get?" thread. So from here, I'd like to thank everyone for their helpful advice. We'll start crunching numbers and combos this weekend and try to decide what our overall goal is.
Thanks again
Rome [ November 05, 2004, 08:12 AM: Message edited by: Dyrti Byrd 2k2 ]
|