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Author
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Topic: Body Work & Painting Questions
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
 
 
Okay, I don't really have any specific questions.
I was just wondering if anyone knew of any websites or books that give a step by step process on doing body work and painting a car, what materials I need, etc..
I have a 1965 Mustang coupe, I am going to have a new trunk pan welded in. Then I will sand blast the car and remove any dents and dings from it.
After that what do I do? Degrease the car? Use body filler? Do I degrease the car after I put the body filler on and then sand it? Do I degease between coats of primer; paint?
Also, does anyone have a website that shows pictures and paint codes of different factory colors?
Thanks guys!
[ October 12, 2004, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: MustangNate ]
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
Anyone?
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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nitrous_bob
CAFords OG
Member # 77
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posted
ok a lot to answer....
first off..you don't want to sandblast sheetmetal..it will warp.
you want to meadiablast it..it's the same thing w/ plastic instead of sand.
if you sand or blast you shouldn't have to degrease anything....and you will be sanding at least 3-4 times.
220 to rough...400 for semi....600 on the primer...1000-1500 for the clearcoat/wheelout
all in all your asking for a lot in a thread.
and i'm sure you can find some body books at the library or bookstore.
you need to sand between coats of sealer or primer...or any dry coats for that matter then wipe clean w/ reducer.
between coats of paint..if it stays tacky..then no.
same thing w/ the primer or sealer..but the purpose of that is masking...so seal and sand...seal and sand.
not sure what else i can tell you...
wetsanding is always better...and use a block..or you'll get waves and bulls-eyes.
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5.0 OG since 1990
Posts: 1402 | From: st clair shores MI | Registered: Nov 2000
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jay-vee
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Member # 2708
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posted
isn't the trunk floor just the top of the gas tank, which would just bolt in like on a '67/'68. use a hammer and dolly to work out the dents that you can access from the backside. DO NOT use an old screw type dent puller on your car it will just ruin the panel. to apply bondo you need to grind the area with 40 grit sandpaper so the filler has something to bite into. spread the bondo and block sand it with 40 grit to shape it,then switch to 80 grit, and then finish with at least 150 grit. then you prime it and start sanding all over again with finer grits.
Posts: 52 | From: san mateo | Registered: Apr 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by nitrous_bob:
[QB] ok a lot to answer....
Thanks for answering. I appreciate it. ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
quote:
first off..you don't want to sandblast sheetmetal..it will warp.
you want to meadiablast it..it's the same thing w/ plastic instead of sand.
I was going to use a mixture of walnut shells & glass beads.
quote:
if you sand or blast you shouldn't have to degrease anything....and you will be sanding at least 3-4 times.
220 to rough...400 for semi....600 on the primer...1000-1500 for the clearcoat/wheelout
If I media/sand blast the car I don't have to use the first 2 grits of sand paper right? What is "wheelout"?
I was thinking I will use 3 coats of primer and 5 coats of color.
So I'll do this:
Media Blast
Pull Dents & Dings
Body Filler
Sand
Primer & Sand X3
Spray Color X5
Wet Sand
Spray Clear X3
Wet Sand
Buff
Does that sound about right? Thanks again for the feedback Nitrous_Bob. ![[worship]](graemlins/worship.gif) ![[burnout]](graemlins/burnout.gif)
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
What color do you want to piant it?
ummm... buy a cheese grater, old cars enjoy body filler
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
why do you want 5 coats of color?
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Mr JoCo:
What color do you want to piant it?
ummm... buy a cheese grater, old cars enjoy body filler
when are you gonna paint my notch? ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif) ![[dance]](graemlins/dance.gif)
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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166 Merlo
FELONY
MOTORSPORTS
Member # 1549
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posted
$$$ ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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'89 - Boss Coupe
'70 - Drop Cutthang
'68 - Cougnut
'87 - 0166, Its real
Posts: 3954 | From: Thebay | Registered: Jul 2002
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Blind
2.3L
CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by Mr JoCo:
$$$
thats not a problem, I thought you were "too busy" lol
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89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi
02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
quote:
Originally posted by jay-vee:
isn't the trunk floor just the top of the gas tank, which would just bolt in like on a '67/'68
There is the trunk floor, then the gas tank drops in and bolts to the trunk floor. I have to replace the drivers side by the 1/4 panel.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr JoCo:
What color do you want to piant it?
ummm... buy a cheese grater, old cars enjoy body filler
I am thinking Acapulco Blue or Grabber Orange.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr JoCo:
why do you want 5 coats of color?
Always heard that it'd make the paint look deeper, more vibrant.
I will be getting pics of everything. Starting of how the car is sitting right now. Thanks for the replies guys.
[ October 13, 2004, 12:37 AM: Message edited by: MustangNate ]
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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nitrous_bob
CAFords OG
Member # 77
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posted
by wheeling out i meant buff like you said.
if your spraying base/clear you won't get a deeper look w/ 5 coats of base.
the base coat is dull and only needs to "just cover" the primer.
all the gloss and wear layer comes from the clear.
the deeper look comes from multiple coats of clear. and it will look good.
the base is really really thin....the clear coat is thicker
and yeah....it all sounded good the way you laid it out.
spend more time on prep work....you can't paint over mistakes...the more the finish builds up...the more it magnifies every flaw...you can't "cover up" anything. except on the primer or sealer coats...you should use 1 coat of sealer...it has a ton of solids in it..and you can spray it thick...then wet sand your ass off.
it is a lot better than primer...and eliminates a coat or 2 of primer.
you should do fine...just remember ...don't slack on the prep work.
a beatiful paint job can be ruined by a shoddy body work. (DA marks...deep sand scrathes from not spending enuff time etc)
good luck..post some before and after pics...probably pick up a job or 2 if it looks good
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5.0 OG since 1990
Posts: 1402 | From: st clair shores MI | Registered: Nov 2000
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Wolfie351
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Member # 651
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posted
www.paintucation.com
Kevin on that site is a very cool guy and will answer any question you have no matter how noob or basic it is. The videos he sells are good too
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1985 Mustang GT: 351W, Griggs, Baer, etc etc
Posts: 1214 | From: South Bay | Registered: Dec 2001
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MustangNate
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Member # 4559
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posted
Hey guys, thanks for all the replies.
I really appreciate it!! I'll keep everyone posted, you should see some pics within the next couple weeks.
![[patriot]](graemlins/patriot.gif)
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1989 Mustang LX Vert, 5.0 Auto
Posts: 1032 | From: Chico | Registered: May 2004
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jph331
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Member # 665
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posted
You don't have to sand the base coat. Spray your base, nib sand any imperfections with 1000 grit, spray clear coat. If you wait more than 24 hours to spray clear then sanding would be needed.
Posts: 338 | From: Concord | Registered: Dec 2001
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