This is topic Battery Relocation in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Dizzy (Member # 884) on :
 
I want to relocate my battery to the trunk but the standard guage wire wont turn the car over....

What gauge wire would work?

Thanks

EDIT: This is for the 72 Cougar w/ a 351C

[ July 07, 2004, 12:22 PM: Message edited by: Dizzy ]
 

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Posted by JoeT (Member # 298) on :
 
0 minumum, preferably 00 (some people get away with 2 but don't do it)
 

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Posted by Dizzy (Member # 884) on :
 
http://www.taylorvertex.com/batcable.html

is 1/0 the same as 0 gauge? would that work?
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
1/0 is larger than 0, it will work fine
 

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Posted by cheap (Member # 858) on :
 
Here's some FACTS.

Based on Crutchfield's website, depending on how far you have to run the cable, 2 or 4 gauge should work fine. Keep in mind that the cable is only going to be used certain ways. You're only gonna need power from the battery to the engine bay for car starting. The alternator keeps everything powered once the car is running. After the car has started the alternator needs to provide power to recharge the battery.

How strong is your alternator? Most Mustang alternators produce well below 130 amps. It's your call. The biggest factors you need to consider is cable length and amperage, so make sure you choose wisely.
 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 
Personally, I oversize anytime I do wiring jobs, I feel safer in the fact that a larger diameter (smaller gauge) wire will be able to carry more current.

I have 0 guage running to my stereo, It's a little over kill, but I wont have any issues later when I want to upgrade.


 

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Posted by chosen1 (Member # 1906) on :
 
i told alen, but i'll tell you as well.

i used welding ground cable. its bigger than regular battery cable, and its flexible like spaghetti. you can get it from any welding supply company.

dont forget, you need to have a cut off switch for the track if you relocate your battery
 

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Posted by JoeT (Member # 298) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by cheap:
Here's some FACTS.

depending on how far you have to run the cable, 2 or 4 gauge should work fine.

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quote:

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Originally posted by JoeT:

quote:

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Originally posted by cheap:
Here's some FACTS.

depending on how far you have to run the cable, 2 or 4 gauge should work fine.

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wow I'm sorry, I completely disagree. 4 gauge wiring to power a V8 starter? high compression 351c no less?

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Well I looked back and found that the cable I used before was 2 guage and it wouldnt turn the car over. So yeah thanks Joe
 

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Posted by Dizzy (Member # 884) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by chosen1:
i told alen, but i'll tell you as well.

i used welding ground cable. its bigger than regular battery cable, and its flexible like spaghetti. you can get it from any welding supply company.

dont forget, you need to have a cut off switch for the track if you relocate your battery

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quote:

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Originally posted by chosen1:
i told alen, but i'll tell you as well.

i used welding ground cable. its bigger than regular battery cable, and its flexible like spaghetti. you can get it from any welding supply company.

dont forget, you need to have a cut off switch for the track if you relocate your battery

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that's what i used
 

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Posted by Dizzy (Member # 884) on :
 
What brand cut off switch should i get?

[ July 07, 2004, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: Dizzy ]
 

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Posted by cheap (Member # 858) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by JoeT:

quote:

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Originally posted by cheap:
Here's some FACTS.

depending on how far you have to run the cable, 2 or 4 gauge should work fine.

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wow I'm sorry, I completely disagree. 4 gauge wiring to power a V8 starter? high compression 351c no less?

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4ga from the engine bay fuse box to my starter (approx. 5-6 feet) is what I have stock in my '95, and it turns over my 351W no problem. What is the amperage draw for a stock 5.0 starter? I just moved my battery to the trunk as well but that is one factor I overlooked, and I wont have an opportunity to ops-check the system for starting until I get my radiator situation squared away.
 

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Posted by JoeT (Member # 298) on :
 
you could probably get by with 4,or a few strands of 20 gauge and a running start but sounds like a fire hazard to me. The draw of a motor (like any motor) is dependent on the load it is placed under---- but anyways it's somewhere in the 150-200 amps range for a stock 302. So figure in what 14' or so of cable does do a 12v source.


dizzy- summit has switches with the on/off sticker that cost like $10-$15 or so, hopefully you'll mount it behind the license plate
 

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Posted by mtbaughs (Member # 4052) on :
 
You'll want a cut off switch that not only cuts power to the battery but also to the alternator as the car will continue to run if you just cut battery power. At idle cutting the battery will kill the car but if the car is held above 2000 rpms the car will continue to run once battery power is killed. They make a switch which kills both battery power and alternator output.

[ July 08, 2004, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: mtbaughs ]
 

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Posted by Dizzy (Member # 884) on :
 
What brand sells that style?
 

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Posted by JoeT (Member # 298) on :
 
if you use the summit switch and wire it correctly, there's no special switch required.

buffhomer (do a search on the corral, he has it in his sig) has a nice wiring diagram of it
 

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