This is topic Battery Relocation in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Hey guys, just purchased me a handy dandy battery relocation kit, I was just wondering if anyone had any advice on where I should be looking to sneak the positive terminal cable through to get from the trunk to the engine bay?

Thanks,
Ming
 

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Posted by -SVT- Parker (Member # 4057) on :
 
Zip tie it to the driveline and though the fuel tank works great trust me

Just kidding watch out for any moving parts or fuel lines and you should be fine.

[ June 16, 2004, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: -SVT- Parker ]
 

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Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by -SVT- Parker:
Zip tie it to the driveline

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I'd go through the firewall and run it under teh carpet all the way back to the trunk...That way it's protected from the outside elements and stands less chance of corrosion...
 

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Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Is there a certain area that'll go from the firewall into the interior? Or will I be doing lots of drilling? If the latter, any recommendations on location?

Thanks again
Ming
 

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Posted by Black94 5.0 (Member # 655) on :
 
Read the 1st post at the top page of tech talk...The more information the better....

If you have a Fox body or SN95 you can find any of the rubber grommets on the firewall and make a small cut and just thread the wire through...
 

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Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Ahh thanks, I'll put the details of my crappy car in my Sig from now on
 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 
I always like to wrap wiring in some wire loom, some say its overkill, but its cheap and gives me peace of mind. Ive seen what a small chafing on a wire can do.... not pretty.

look for a vacant hole in the firewall, or make one and get a rubber stopper and poke the wire thru that.
 

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Posted by mtbaughs (Member # 4052) on :
 
Start from the front of the motor, pwr distribution block. Run the positive lead to the drivers side of the firewall. Just to the right of the brake booster you'll see a grommet. Slice a slit in the grommet big enough to push the cable through. Pull all the extra lead through. Remove the drivers side kick panel and door sill. Run the positive lead behind and under these to the back seat area. Remove the lower portion of the back seat. Run the cable from the drivers side over to the passanger side. Replace the seat and now the lead should be in the corner of the passenger side trunk area. For the ground find the grommet in the floor area of the trunk. Run the ground through this grommet down through the frame. This lead is going to ground on the quad shock bracket behind one of the bracket bolts. Remove all the paint from the bracket. Take the bolt and remove any coating on the portion where the terminal mounts. Normally for mounting the battery box I run two lengths of all thread through the floor. You'll have to remove the gas tank to do so. Good luck
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
be careful routing the line under the drivers seat, in my swapping adventures my donor v8 coupe had a trunk mounted battery and the hot line was run inside the car under the seat, the seat bolts actually pinched the line in 2 seperate places and it was dangerously close to grounding out.

personally, I would wire loom the hot line and zip tie it to the drivers side frame rail all the way back rather than inside the car.
 

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Posted by illwill510 (Member # 3788) on :
 
get this.... guy who i bought me 93 gt off of ran the positive cable pinched between the fuel tank and body. (not safe?) or not?
 

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Posted by ShiftyGT (Member # 3862) on :
 
where did you get the battery box from?? Does it fit the battery nice and snug?
 

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Posted by xchpstang (Member # 1206) on :
 
A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.
 

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Posted by shiftylx (Member # 2670) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by mtbaughs:
Start from the front of the motor, pwr distribution block. Run the positive lead to the drivers side of the firewall. Just to the right of the brake booster you'll see a grommet. Slice a slit in the grommet big enough to push the cable through. Pull all the extra lead through. Remove the drivers side kick panel and door sill. Run the positive lead behind and under these to the back seat area. Remove the lower portion of the back seat. Run the cable from the drivers side over to the passanger side. Replace the seat and now the lead should be in the corner of the passenger side trunk area. For the ground find the grommet in the floor area of the trunk. Run the ground through this grommet down through the frame. This lead is going to ground on the quad shock bracket behind one of the bracket bolts. Remove all the paint from the bracket. Take the bolt and remove any coating on the portion where the terminal mounts. Normally for mounting the battery box I run two lengths of all thread through the floor. You'll have to remove the gas tank to do so. Good luck

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wow, word for word of what i did
 

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Posted by 89Rodknocker (Member # 2951) on :
 
You could also give m.a.d enterprise a call. They're in southern ca.
 

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Posted by mtbaughs (Member # 4052) on :
 
To add to my previous post you'll want to take the stock ground from the original mounting location on the battery...strip the wires back and cut off the lug and re-ground with a new terminal up front. Forgot to include that part.
 

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Posted by 94gt (Member # 3060) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by xchpstang:
A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.

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quote:

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Originally posted by 94gt:

quote:

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Originally posted by xchpstang:
A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.

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its best to have as short of a ground cord as possible i.e. 3 ft versus 17ft.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Ming:
Any advice or suggestions for a good/cheap crimper?

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quote:

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Originally posted by mtbaughs:

quote:

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Originally posted by Ming:
Any advice or suggestions for a good/cheap crimper?

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Here's the method I use though you will need a propane torch or a mapp gas torch to do so. Put the terminal in a vise, have you solder in your hand, heat the terminal up and fill the terminal with molten solder, stuff the exposed cable into the terminal and let it cool. This makes for one solid connection. The other options are specialy made battery crimpers which are not cheap but do the job the right way as well. Using other methods may work but are not as solid of a connection.

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