Author
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Topic: Battery Relocation
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Ming
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Member # 2336
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posted
Hey guys, just purchased me a handy dandy battery relocation kit, I was just wondering if anyone had any advice on where I should be looking to sneak the positive terminal cable through to get from the trunk to the engine bay?
Thanks, Ming
-------------------- '95 GT And she pings like a Chinese sports channel without the pong.
Posts: 51 | Registered: Jan 2003
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Coyoteswapfox92
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Member # 4057
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posted
Zip tie it to the driveline and though the fuel tank works great trust me
Just kidding watch out for any moving parts or fuel lines and you should be fine. [ June 16, 2004, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: -SVT- Parker ]
-------------------- 1992 Coyote project under construction.
Posts: 1052 | From: Yuba City, Ca | Registered: Jan 2004
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
quote: Originally posted by -SVT- Parker: Zip tie it to the driveline
I'd go through the firewall and run it under teh carpet all the way back to the trunk...That way it's protected from the outside elements and stands less chance of corrosion...
-------------------- -SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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Ming
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Member # 2336
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posted
Is there a certain area that'll go from the firewall into the interior? Or will I be doing lots of drilling? If the latter, any recommendations on location?
Thanks again Ming
-------------------- '95 GT And she pings like a Chinese sports channel without the pong.
Posts: 51 | Registered: Jan 2003
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BlackNGold
CaliforniaFords.com Moderator
Member # 655
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posted
Read the 1st post at the top page of tech talk...The more information the better....
If you have a Fox body or SN95 you can find any of the rubber grommets on the firewall and make a small cut and just thread the wire through...
-------------------- -SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT-
Posts: 5132 | From: Bay Area, CA | Registered: Dec 2001
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Ming
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Member # 2336
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posted
Ahh thanks, I'll put the details of my crappy car in my Sig from now on
-------------------- '95 GT And she pings like a Chinese sports channel without the pong.
Posts: 51 | Registered: Jan 2003
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94gt
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Member # 3060
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posted
I always like to wrap wiring in some wire loom, some say its overkill, but its cheap and gives me peace of mind. Ive seen what a small chafing on a wire can do.... not pretty.
look for a vacant hole in the firewall, or make one and get a rubber stopper and poke the wire thru that.
-------------------- 2020 Explorer ST 2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw
Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
Start from the front of the motor, pwr distribution block. Run the positive lead to the drivers side of the firewall. Just to the right of the brake booster you'll see a grommet. Slice a slit in the grommet big enough to push the cable through. Pull all the extra lead through. Remove the drivers side kick panel and door sill. Run the positive lead behind and under these to the back seat area. Remove the lower portion of the back seat. Run the cable from the drivers side over to the passanger side. Replace the seat and now the lead should be in the corner of the passenger side trunk area. For the ground find the grommet in the floor area of the trunk. Run the ground through this grommet down through the frame. This lead is going to ground on the quad shock bracket behind one of the bracket bolts. Remove all the paint from the bracket. Take the bolt and remove any coating on the portion where the terminal mounts. Normally for mounting the battery box I run two lengths of all thread through the floor. You'll have to remove the gas tank to do so. Good luck
-------------------- R.I.P. Charlie Bruno Dec 2001
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
be careful routing the line under the drivers seat, in my swapping adventures my donor v8 coupe had a trunk mounted battery and the hot line was run inside the car under the seat, the seat bolts actually pinched the line in 2 seperate places and it was dangerously close to grounding out.
personally, I would wire loom the hot line and zip tie it to the drivers side frame rail all the way back rather than inside the car.
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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illwill510
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Member # 3788
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posted
get this.... guy who i bought me 93 gt off of ran the positive cable pinched between the fuel tank and body. (not safe?) or not?
Posts: 785 | From: Sacramento | Registered: Nov 2003
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ShiftyGT
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Member # 3862
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posted
where did you get the battery box from?? Does it fit the battery nice and snug?
-------------------- 1990 GT, Back in action
Posts: 396 | From: Chico CA | Registered: Dec 2003
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xchpstang
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Member # 1206
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posted
A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.
-------------------- 04 Cobra, K&N FIPK,
Posts: 239 | From: Turlock | Registered: Apr 2002
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drews50
CAFords OG
Member # 2670
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posted
quote: Originally posted by mtbaughs: Start from the front of the motor, pwr distribution block. Run the positive lead to the drivers side of the firewall. Just to the right of the brake booster you'll see a grommet. Slice a slit in the grommet big enough to push the cable through. Pull all the extra lead through. Remove the drivers side kick panel and door sill. Run the positive lead behind and under these to the back seat area. Remove the lower portion of the back seat. Run the cable from the drivers side over to the passanger side. Replace the seat and now the lead should be in the corner of the passenger side trunk area. For the ground find the grommet in the floor area of the trunk. Run the ground through this grommet down through the frame. This lead is going to ground on the quad shock bracket behind one of the bracket bolts. Remove all the paint from the bracket. Take the bolt and remove any coating on the portion where the terminal mounts. Normally for mounting the battery box I run two lengths of all thread through the floor. You'll have to remove the gas tank to do so. Good luck
wow, word for word of what i did
-------------------- *shiftylx*
2013 Race Red 5.0 "Lucy" 1967 Lime Gold 289 coupe "Ethel"
Posts: 2457 | From: phoenix | Registered: Apr 2003
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89Rodknocker
CAFords OG
Member # 2951
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posted
You could also give m.a.d enterprise a call. They're in southern ca.
-------------------- 89 lx (stolen and stripped) 94 gt runner (sold) 89 lx Stock(sold) 86 gt T-trim (sold) 73 Camaro BBC 01 5.0 Explorer limited Borlas (sold)
Posts: 2488 | From: Bay Area | Registered: Jun 2003
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
To add to my previous post you'll want to take the stock ground from the original mounting location on the battery...strip the wires back and cut off the lug and re-ground with a new terminal up front. Forgot to include that part.
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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94gt
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Member # 3060
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posted
quote: Originally posted by xchpstang: A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.
its best to have as short of a ground cord as possible i.e. 3 ft versus 17ft.
-------------------- 2020 Explorer ST 2011 Silver Raptor 'Screw
Posts: 5777 | From: Beavercreek, OH | Registered: Jul 2003
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
quote: Originally posted by 94gt: quote: Originally posted by xchpstang: A lot of sites recommend it and it worked great for my car: Ground to the same spot as it was originally. For example: the negative should be grounded all the way back to the block and also to the bolt next to the windshield washer reservoir. I tried to ground it with the short wire that came with the kit and it really didn't work. I tried this second method and it worked great. This would apply to a 87-93 Fox. I don't know about others.
its best to have as short of a ground cord as possible i.e. 3 ft versus 17ft.
Yes sir, battery should be grounded in the rear and the old ground re-grounded in the front. Also it is best to use welding cable verses the skinney stuff in most battery kits 00 gauge wire works best.
-------------------- R.I.P. Charlie Bruno Dec 2001
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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Ming
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Member # 2336
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posted
Any advice or suggestions for a good/cheap crimper?
-------------------- '95 GT And she pings like a Chinese sports channel without the pong.
Posts: 51 | Registered: Jan 2003
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mtbaughs
Road Racer
Member # 4052
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posted
quote: Originally posted by Ming: Any advice or suggestions for a good/cheap crimper?
Here's the method I use though you will need a propane torch or a mapp gas torch to do so. Put the terminal in a vise, have you solder in your hand, heat the terminal up and fill the terminal with molten solder, stuff the exposed cable into the terminal and let it cool. This makes for one solid connection. The other options are specialy made battery crimpers which are not cheap but do the job the right way as well. Using other methods may work but are not as solid of a connection.
-------------------- R.I.P. Charlie Bruno Dec 2001
Posts: 2019 | From: Boise, Idaho | Registered: Jan 2004
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Blind
2.3L CAFords OG
Member # 3052
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posted
quote: Originally posted by mtbaughs: quote: Originally posted by Ming: Any advice or suggestions for a good/cheap crimper?
Here's the method I use though you will need a propane torch or a mapp gas torch to do so. Put the terminal in a vise, have you solder in your hand, heat the terminal up and fill the terminal with molten solder, stuff the exposed cable into the terminal and let it cool. This makes for one solid connection. The other options are specialy made battery crimpers which are not cheap but do the job the right way as well. Using other methods may work but are not as solid of a connection.
ditto.
-------------------- 89 LX Notchback ex 4cyl, 14psi 02 Harley F150, 15psi
Posts: 8521 | From: Fairfield | Registered: Jul 2003
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