T O P I C R E V I E W
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
my clutch cable is giving me the fits
It appears I have a steeda firewall adjuster, some unknown brand clutch quadrant (its silver and alloy, with only one hook for the cable). The cable itself is threaded at the end and has 2 nuts on it that set the tension on the clutch fork in the bellhousing.
on my way home today I clutched it coming out of 4th and heard a *BANG* and the pedal went limp, I figured the cable broke but no...the nut on the end of the cable in the clutch fork flew off, it didn't break its just not there anymore. So after waiting for the exhaust to cool off enough for me to mess with the cable I took the other nut off the cable and reused that to set the tension of the cable against the fork, and it feels like this smaller nut has a possibility of being pulled through the fork over time, and I no longer have a backup nut to hold the position of the cable and the clutch fork makes a flapping/tapping sound with the pedal up (i.e. not enough tension?)
FWIW the clutch is a spec stage 2, and I have a brand new ford metal throw out bearing in there.
is my best bet to just get a replacement ford clutch cable from the dealer? Or hit the hardware store and find another nut and pray that it doesn't fly off the clutch cable again in a couple weeks?
also - is it a PITA to install a ford clutch cable into a firewall adjuster?
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Black94 5.0
Member # 655
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posted
You could take a trip to OSH, but I would rather buy a new quadrant and cable and know exactly what's what...
Steeda's double hook quadrant is $39.95 and the stainless steel Steeda clutch cable is the same $39.95....
BTW, you should only have about an 1/8" of play at the end of your cable on the clutch fork side...
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87 Saleen
Member # 1549
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posted
Yea I got the steeda shit on my car. The biggest pain in the ass is removing the stock quadrant. I took the drivers seat out just cuz basically my back went numb when I replaced the brake booster in my car and didn't want that to happen again.. heh. Altogether, clutch cable, firewall adjuster, quadrant, and proper adjustment after test drive took me about 45 minutes to put in.
Have fun
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
I have no trouble doing the work, I did a 5.0 and 5 speed swap to this car by myself already.
I just want to know the best solution to fixing my problem, although I do have a budget.
Should I really replace the quadrant? It's alloy and feels really strong I see no advantages to the steeda except if you have a wrong length clutch cable (the 2 hooks).
Can a ford dealer purchased clutch cable work with a firewall mounted adjuster?
The reason I don't know what the parts brands are, is these all came off my donor car.
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FordPny
Member # 510
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posted
TTT
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mtbaughs
Member # 4052
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posted
You can buy the ford racing clutch cable which is adjustable. I'd buy this over the stock ford replacement cable. From what I read it just sounds like the jam nut wasn't tight and it just backed off the cable. Theres two nuts. One to set the cable tension which is rounded on one end to fit the fork and one nut to jam this other nut from backing out. Is there any problem with the clutch fork itself? Maybe the pivot ball on the bellhousing is worn down? [ May 17, 2004, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: mtbaughs ]
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racercosmo
Member # 1864
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posted
http://www.fortesparts.com/welcome.cfm
If you are going to get a new quadrant and adjuster, I would suggest the one from Fortes along with a stock Ford OEM clutch cable.
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM7553B302
The above link shows my clutch cable and quadrant that I currently have in the car.
mtbaughs: Exactly what you said, the adjusting nut backed off the cable. My goodtimes side of the road fix was I used the other jam nut in its place, but I have nothing backing that up. I haven't driven the car since getting it home that day.
so now that it looks like I have a ford racing cable and quadrant, with the addition of a steeda firewall adjuster...what direction should I go?
any sources for the proper adjustment nuts that I need that is ~1/2" thick and has a rounded head on one side? If I was to replace it, I was going to look for a locknut (metal nut with nylon insert) so that it doesn't get vibrated off again.
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mtbaughs
Member # 4052
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posted
I'm going to dig through my crap in the garage and see if I can find one. You won't need a nylock nut as tightening the two together provides a locking action. If you are concerned you can though. Because the nut which is against the fork is rounded it isn't an off the shelf Orchard part. I imagine if I was in your shoes I would get a nut which has the right thread pitch and one that is thick enough where I could grind one side round to fit the fork much like the original does. Let me check the garage and I'll let ya know if I find one. [ May 17, 2004, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: mtbaughs ]
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mtbaughs
Member # 4052
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posted
Damn no such luck finding one in the garage. You might find something close to that nut at Orchard hardware but if not just make one out of a standard nut that is of the same size.
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
cool, thanks for the input
I will try to figure out a combo tomorrow. I have a feeling I get to play with the grinder again
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blind
Member # 3052
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posted
found a nut that fits at ACE today.
M8 x 1.25 is the thread pattern and size.
the nut I found is about 1/2" long and was $1.30 each (I grabbed a couple in case).
just posting this in case someone else has the same problem and needs a replacement nut [ May 18, 2004, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: blind ]
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mtbaughs
Member # 4052
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posted
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